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    Sticky Clutch Pedal

    Recently my clutch pedal suddenly decided that it wasn't going to come back up completely all the way. It only comes up about 75-80% of the way now instead of fully coming back up. I can still use it and shift and the clutch disengages properly, its just sort of bothersome. Googling this makes it sound like the clutch slave cylinder (which I checked, It isn't leaking) or the Master cylinder but most people who have had these break on them said the clutch pedal completely hits the floor and won't come back up. So i'm not exactly sure if the problem is the cylinders or something simple, I tried wd40 on the clutch pedal where it pivots but it didn't seem to fix the issue. I am able to pull up the clutch pedal with my foot too. My car has only 230000 km on it and I know the clutch is still good and doesn't slip.

    #2
    maybe try rebleeding it...just a suggestion, if you do end up replacing one cylinder, might as well replace the other
    1991 318is ---230K - DD
    1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

    Originally posted by RickSloan
    so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

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      #3
      Have you touched the clutch pedal or anything down in the area lately?
      I ask because a return spring (attached to the clutch pedal and fitted in a notch on the pedal bracket) not properly placed will cause what you are describing.

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        #4
        This happened to me once. The pedal box assembly bracket cracked. It allowed the clutch pedal to get stuck on the dead pedal.
        Aslo yes check the return springs
        sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
        The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

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          #5
          I'm currently trying to find this spring and I'm just wondering which part it is on the diagram. Is it part 19 or 22? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...83&hg=35&fg=05

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            #6
            22 is the master cylinder?
            1991 318is ---230K - DD
            1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

            Originally posted by RickSloan
            so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

            Comment


              #7
              22 is the pedal assist spring.

              19 is the return spring.

              Your symptoms sound more like a master or slave on it's way out.
              Suspension tips here...
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/album.php?albumid=757

              sigpic

              Comment


                #8
                I'm beginning to think that because my clutch pedal recently started sqeaking everytime I push it down now. However it hasn't gotten any worse when returning, it still returns about 3/4s of the way. How difficult is it to replace the master or slave cylinder?

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                  #9
                  The slave is easy...two bolts and the line.

                  The M/C is a little more entailed, but not rocket surgery.

                  I can do both in about an hour.
                  Suspension tips here...
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/album.php?albumid=757

                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    FFFFUUUUUUUUUU!!!! So I think I found the problem, the actual black bracket that holds the Master clutch cylinder on has a big crack in it and it bending, so everytime I push the clutch pedal, the Master clutch cylinder pushrod bends too.

                    You can see the slight bend of the Master clutch cylinder near the rubber boot of it.







                    From the corrosion or rust it looks like its been like this for a while.


                    So I'm not sure how to actually remove that black bracket or if you can even buy them anymore. Also because the Master Clutch cylinder push rod was bending I'll probably have to replace that too. This car is becoming a real money pit :(

                    EDIT* I found something similar that happened to another guys pedal assembly as well, It was on an e24 but it looks like the exact same problem as mine http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1513888 I'll probably have to follow this guide except for the part where I have to weld, I'll also probably just buy a new assembly. Does anyone know if Auto trannys use the same sort of mounting for their pedals too? If so there's an Autotragic E30 at my local pick n pull that I'll just take the pedal assembly from and add the clutch pedal.
                    Last edited by zig553; 10-19-2011, 07:10 PM.

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                      #11
                      MIne cracked in a different spot. I just removed it from the car and ran a bead down it. Works great
                      sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
                      The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I got my pedal box welded, it was sheared across completely but its welded nice and tight now. When putting it back in I noticed my clutch return spring popped off, I've read before that sometimes it falls out and people just don't put it back in. I'm just wondering if I need it or not.

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                          #13
                          Yep. Hardly rare -- it happened to mine at the same spot. I swapped in another pedal box.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            That's just a helper spring, it has nothing to do with the "return" of the pedal. I usually leave it off when do auto/ manual conversions. You do not need it

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Hi everyone,
                              Yes, Old Forum Threads Matter,,,, lol

                              The Very same thing just happened to me, i've seen a bracket you can add for additional support,,, and wanted to know the following:

                              1. will welding the old part stand the test of another 100k of usage?
                              2. has anybody welded the old housing and had any issues of it breaking again?
                              3. Any feedback on the support bracket seller/part?

                              will post sum pictures once i get settled

                              the welder guy told be 60 bucks to weld 3inchs,,, lol, a new housing is 40 bucks (housing with air bag part number is ECS# 63303 Mfg# 35111157720 )
                              Last edited by TURBOX; 02-02-2018, 11:34 AM. Reason: i cant spell
                              [1991, E-30 325i, 5-Speed, M20, Brillantrot] [1998, B5 Passat 1.8t] [2007, R6 Yamaha] [2011, Tundra 5.7]

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