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Old 11-19-2009, 06:08 PM   #1
Spaz
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Wiring a C101 Connector: Geting Pin's, Crimpers and a Cheap Pin Removal Tool!

With a couple swaps I'll be doing I'm attaching the m20 C101 engine side connector to m50 family wiring harness, and while there is a lot of information about this scatter around this and other forums it can be hard to find for some people. So I'm making a bit of a guide with some of my own experience advice for everyone to enjoy.




Pins:

You're gonna need from your local or online dealer
  • 20 x 61-13-1-376-191 (Only really need about 16, 20 allow for mistakes)
  • 2 x 61-13-1-376-193 (for larger gauge wire if you want)
  • 2 x 61-13-1-376-195 (for larger gauge wire if you want)
  • 1 x 12-52-1-707-283 (C101 Black Plastic Connector)

The last two numbers are required but i just like using the larger connectors for the larger gauge wire just in case

NOTE:
You can order pin's from Tischer (getbmwparts.com) it'll say the part is superseded but this is not correct, just make sure you put in your notes to them that you actually want the part number 61-13-1-376-191 Otherwise you're going to be sent the pin with a flying lead attached.

I've brought it to their attention that they're catalog is incorrect...so hopefully they will change it.


Crimper's:
Pretty much all the crimpers that are for sale anywhere are not meant for these style of connection found on our cars. You can get them from the dealer but i didn't even bother to find the price. But I have found one place that does sell very similar ones...




http://www.vintageconnections.com/


These guys in the PNW sell the best crimper's for the job, hands down, they are ratcheting insuring a proper crimp and you can also buy extra dies for the crimper to allow you to use them in other applications. I highly suggest you use these over anything else, they'll ensure you get your wiring job done right.

Also a misconception with crimping is that soldering is done after, but thats not the case! You should only solder crimp joints that are loose.



Pin Removal Tool
Unless you feel the need to purchase the $80 Pin removal tool from BMW, I found a cheap and easy solution.

RCA Coaxial "F" Connectors for Coaxial Cable RG59
Part Number VH65

I got mine at home depot for $3.99 I'm sure they sell them online as well. A quick search revealed a bunch of sellers.

These fit over the pins perfectly and in to the plastic connector well. They're tad tight so i took a dremel and sanded down the outside a tad to get rid of the ribs on the connector, and it fits perfectly now.




Also remember if the wire won't come out, that the black plastic connector does spin and lock them all into place, just bend back 2 small tabs on the back and spin it counter clockwise. You'll understand when you see it!



Conclusion:

After you gather all your parts and tools, the act of putting on the pin's is pretty simple.
  1. Create a chart labeling what wires from the X20 Connector go to corresponding pin hole on the C101
  2. Cut the old X20 Connector off the m50/s50 family engine harness
  3. Remove all the rubber coverings as you deem necessary, it depends if you're using the m42 wiring harness cover or the e36 one.
  4. Identify the wires you will need, strip back the ones you will use.
  5. Tape Off/Shrink Wrap The wires you won't use.
  6. Crimp on the pins on each wire you will be using, use the larger pins for the 2 or 3 larger gauges wires (If you bought those pins)
  7. Insert the pins into correct pin holes the new C101 Black Connector You Bought.
  8. Plug the new created C101 Connection into the main harness on your e30.


There are lists all over for pin outs + connectors, I'm not going to post mine until i feel safe/confident with it

But you can make your own using the ETM Manuals found here.

http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm


I Hope this helps a couple of you guys.

-Cameron
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Last edited by Spaz; 11-21-2009 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:17 PM   #2
gregslow318i
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cool thanks for the pin's part# been looking for the for a while
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:33 PM   #3
Farbin Kaiber
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Awesome move on the pin removal tool.
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:34 PM   #4
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grat idea on the RCA connectors :thumbsup:
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Old 11-19-2009, 07:11 PM   #5
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nice that is soo much better than splicing, clean like it came from the factory

thanks for the p/n's
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Old 11-19-2009, 07:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregslow318i View Post
cool thanks for the pin's part# been looking for the for a while
You've been selling adapters without new pins?
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Old 11-19-2009, 07:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt View Post
You've been selling adapters without new pins?

oh no! even i learned my lesson early!

btw the proper pin removal too is

83 30 0 495 385
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Old 11-19-2009, 08:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt View Post
you've been selling adapters without new pins?

+2
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Old 11-19-2009, 08:35 PM   #9
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+2
20+ adapters made and sold and not one has come back with a problem, and just over 14k on my own personal adapter that gets driven everyday rain or shine (more rain here in seattle haha). the extra pin is for the e30m3 adapter's ware you need to add a pin for the oil temp sender for the cluster.

btw I have life time guaranty on my adapter, if there is ever a problem with it I will replace it, I will even overnight it for free. on top of that each one of my adapter is pretested before it even ships out
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Old 11-19-2009, 08:37 PM   #10
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damn i need to raise my prices 135 shipped for new pins new wires new grommets and new connectors
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:19 AM   #11
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damn i need to raise my prices 135 shipped for new pins new wires new grommets and new connectors
I personalty like using the factory wires for 3 reasons

First it insures that the pins are in the exact locations they need to be, you don't what to mix something up like putting 12v power through the oil level sender or something like that there (pin locations are wright next to each other and often hard to correctly locate)

second they use the correct gauge of wire for the current used for each circuit, like the starter uses a 10 gauge wire and the tack uses a 20 gauge wire, once again dont what to over heating the wire by running to much current through it

third make truble shooting any problems much simpler since it uses the factory color coded wiring, this is helpful if you ever wanted to add something like add a fuel correction circuit for the fuel economy gauge or an after market tach so you don't have to go back and chase down an unknown wire with no factory references other than pin locations.

Last edited by gregslow318i; 11-20-2009 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:40 AM   #12
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Spaz, is there a reason why you cut the X20 off instead of using your pin removal tool to push the pins out of the X20 connector? I was planning on doing this to maintain the factory crimping and just inserting the pins into the C101 in the correct position. Any reason why that wouldn't work?
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:01 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackbenny View Post
Spaz, is there a reason why you cut the X20 off instead of using your pin removal tool to push the pins out of the X20 connector? I was planning on doing this to maintain the factory crimping and just inserting the pins into the C101 in the correct position. Any reason why that wouldn't work?
You need to cut the engine side x20 off since all the pins are actually female on that side where on the C101 the pins are male.

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Old 11-20-2009, 09:49 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Spaz View Post
You need to cut the engine side x20 off since all the pins are actually female on that side where on the C101 the pins are male.

<homer> DOH!!!! <end homer>

um, i would have figured it out eventually....

Man I feel dumb.

Thanks
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Old 11-21-2009, 12:57 PM   #15
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I had a typo the pin part number was one digit wrong. (The old number would yielded no results if searched for)

61-13-1-376-191 is the correct number I updated the first post to reflect that
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