So my turbo m42 is done and it starts up fine every morning. But when i go to start it after work it has a hard time. Starts good at lunch as well. just when its been sitting in the suns heat for awhile it gives me trouble. Is there anything i can try to prevent this? Its COP too. Does anyone make heat shields for them?
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COP FTL! heat/vibration will kill it. -
How do you know it is the coils? M/S50/52 coils are basically in the same exact place with no heatshield. I highly doubt the sun is heating them up to the point they don't work.Comment
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Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
this exactly that shit is bullshit your coils arent the issueStrategic nw e30 commandOriginally posted by bmwm42Comment
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hot weather is causing fuel to get into the intake due to a bad FPR thus giving a hard start condition????
its not the coils thats for damn sureComment
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Put on a small heat shield today and it seemed to help. Clutch slave cylinder pooped out today so not being able to drive it helps. The FPR is brand new. I do have the fuel pressure gauge mounted right on the FPR and its fogged and has a small amount of fuel (im assuming its fuel) inside the gauge so i cant see what its reading. I dont think its vapor lock because it has no issues while driving. When i was driving earlier today its started up within a few minutes of being shut off at a gas station. Added a heat shield over the coils this morning. Seemed to have helped.
(alcohol induced post)Comment
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So it starts fine after 3-4 hours but then won't start after 8-9? I really, really doubt it's your coils. That's typically going to be something to do with fuel pressure. If the check valve is leaking slightly, you could be draining the fuel system back into the tank, which will then have to refill itself the next time you start the car. Since your gauge is leaking what apparently could be fuel, I wonder if that isn't the culprit. If fuel is slowly coming out, that means air can slowly get in, breaking the hydrolock that keeps the fuel in the lines and slowly draining it back to the tank, even if the check valve is good.Comment
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Clutch wont fully disengage. The slave cylinder has under 200 miles, it is an autozone part, not leaking fluid, it squeaks when i push in the clutch. Started at around 100 miles. Id pump the clutch a little, it would build pressure and drive fine. Its a clutchmasters stage 3 clutch. Is it the heavier clutch that caused it to fail? Ive never heard anything like that before. The g240 and g260 share the same slave cylinder, correct?Comment
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A stiffer clutch only changes things if there is air in the system. The fact that it works after pumping it tells me you didn't bleed it, or at least not well enough.Comment
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It was bled. On saturday night it wouldnt build pressure after pumping. i pulled it and put my other one on. its bleeding right nowComment
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I did a manual bleed on my clutch before, and always lost all pressure in the clutch. But after pumping it a bunch of times by hand the pressure would come back and it would be fine after that.Comment
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Due to the location of the bleeder on the slave cylinder, it can be very hard to get all the air out. Instead, buy a cheapy pump oil can, fill it with brake fluid and pump it through the bleeder back into the master. Pump until no more air bubbles come out of the master. This will eliminate all the air. Be sure you don't run out of fluid in the oil can or you will have to start all over.Comment
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Check the fusible link on the large 12V line coming from the battery. Lots & lots of guys are having corrosion and breakage problems there, and that leads to your entire injection system having no voltage intermittently. It is about 1ft up the line from the battery under some black shrink tubing.Comment
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Clutch issue fixed. Drove all night last night and it started up everytime with no issue. Didn't park in the garage last night. went to start it this morning and it just cranks. Vapor lock?Comment
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