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LS1 rear diff dual ear

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    LS1 rear diff dual ear

    I've been driving my swap for about 1 month now, and the car twists so hard under hard acceleration is scary...
    Anyway does anyone have a picture of Garret's differential mount installed on the car?
    I fitted the piece on the diff cover, but the two side pieces are kinda far from the boot floor. I know I have to put some pressure on the diff, should I try and get them to line up with the hole on original ear?
    Thanks
    LS1 91 325i - BC Coils, e46 m3 brakes,style 32 17x9, Red Plastidip, H/C/I


    #2
    How do you know it twists?

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

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      #3
      I don't, you are right.
      I have an hard left pull under heavy acceleration, just before the tires brake loose
      I though of it being the diff twisting under torque and lifting the wheel.

      @shiboujin What rear end setup do you use ? Suspension/diff/tires?
      LS1 91 325i - BC Coils, e46 m3 brakes,style 32 17x9, Red Plastidip, H/C/I

      Comment


        #4
        Are your subframe+diff bushings completely shot or something? That's the only way I can see the diff shifting on a horizontal axis.

        Vertical though? I'd say it's probably flexing pretty good. If there's a gap between the new mount and the floor don't push the diff up to get it to touch - that's gonna change your pinion angle. Use a piece of aluminum/steel/rubber or something to take up the excess space, drill holes where necessary and boom you're good to go

        Don't know what's up with the hard pull though

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          #5
          The subframe mounts are brand new, Solid Condor mounts, the diff bushing was shot. I now replaced it and will be doing second mount today.
          Hopefully it will fix some of the issues I have been having
          Does an LSD behave like an open diff when it's shot? As in if i'm burning one tire much more than the other, does that mean my diff clutches are toasted?
          LS1 91 325i - BC Coils, e46 m3 brakes,style 32 17x9, Red Plastidip, H/C/I

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            #6
            maybe, that could explain your issue

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              #7
              If you're on LS power and have the factory diff, well yea. You're going to destroy the innards. It will act like an open if the clutches are shot.

              My setup is solid aluminum bushings for subframe/diff and 75D for the trailing arms. GC coils. 18k rear springs.

              Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

              Comment


                #8
                I got new bushing for everything, all Condor UHMW, and I should receive the LSD clutches in the next few days.
                I also have 18k rear on BC Coils.

                Thanks for the advice everyone!
                LS1 91 325i - BC Coils, e46 m3 brakes,style 32 17x9, Red Plastidip, H/C/I

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                  #9
                  well remember, if you've toasted the inside, the diff is probably 100% shot. You'll likely need a whole new LSD. The dog ears can/should be replaced, but the mating surface to the center section is what melts and fubars. Kinda like replacing your pads but not replacing the rotors.

                  Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

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                    #10
                    Get an open diff and weld it...:devil:
                    -Christian

                    '02 ///M3 CarbonSchwartz 6MT daily beast
                    08/91 Mtechnic II 325IC alpine/lotus
                    318iS, slow build/garage queen...
                    '37 Chevy pickup, the über project
                    Originally posted by roguetoaster
                    Be sure to remind them that the M42 is one of the best engines ever made, but be sure to not mention where it actually falls on that list.

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                      #11
                      E30 have a weakness in the construction,, ab


                      if you have a powerful engine ,, you will break the upper frame in the body where the diff bolts to the ear,,, this is well known on E46 M3,,, E36 M3 evo and on ALL Euro Z3 ///M roadsters,,,,,,,

                      i had S38B38 ,, and one day the car was almost sliding around to much,, when flooring and playing in corners,, the frame was broken ,, and we made a reconstruction to the ear,, another plate and welded the floor bottom in the trunk,, from under neath



                      this is oem .. i will try to take a picture and show the difference
                      Sveinbjörn Hrafnsson

                      E30 CABRIO V12 M70B50 ///
                      ALPINA B10 BITURBO 346 @ 507
                      E34 550 V12 JML


                      Finnish wisdom : If you want to Win,, hire a Finn

                      http://alpina.123.is/pictures/

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                        #12
                        this'll be the first i've heard about e30s having frame issues, though i guess there's a first time for everything. pics will be appreciated

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                          #13
                          You need one of these .....
                          Attached Files
                          E30-LS1 aka. 357is
                          email us to pick up our LS1 swap guide
                          E30-LS1 KITS now available!!
                          E30LS1@gmail.com
                          e30ls1.com

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I've heard of E30's starting to kill that body mount starting at about 300 RWHP. The dual mounting ear setup eliminates the problem.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by garretvs View Post
                              You need one of these .....
                              Where can we get one of these?
                              Alpine White 1989 E30 Coupe - LS1/T56

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