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    #1

    What would you replace first?

    Trying to deduce the cause for a slight shimmy/wobble at 65. The wobble is not consistent. Which worries me somewhat. I know that my Pass side wheel bearing is bad. I can move the wheel/rotor and it has play. I am assuming that this play can transfer to wheel vibration?

    I have never changed a bad wheel bearing. Never heard one fail. Just trying to solve this vibration. A lady friend rode with me and said my car sounds like a rocket. (I had no rear bench and a somewhat noisy fuel pump, along with wheel bearing and CSB whirl)

    Already swapped on the front.
    Lemforder Full Tie Rods, Control Arms. Locking plate.
    Bilstein B6 HD.
    Vogtland Springs.
    Condor Speed Shop M3 LCA (yes, orientation is correct!)
    Sachs OE strut mounts.
    Drivers side wheel bearing was just swapped before purchase.
    Condor PS Delete.
    Front Sway Delete.

    Current tires are General Altimax, only on the front. The rears are junk all seasons. Which may also be the cause of my problem. (It looks like Yokohama S.Drive is the best budget performance for 185-55-14?)

    Things I know that are in need of replacement. Which is most likely to cause wobble? ie. Which would you replace first? I have court fees to deal with so the budget is hurting.

    Steering rack. Leaky and binding (How well do the e36 racks hold up if sitting in a yard? Is rebuilding one a bad idea?)

    Steering guibo/flexdisc. It had the binding issue, white lithium helped immense.

    Pass wheel bearing.

    Driveshaft. I am planning to have the rear u-joint swapped to 1310.




    Could it be related to bad alignment on the front? I have nothing for camber correction. I was considering just replacing my entire set-up with coils, so I am still contemplating the UUC or Turner adjusting plates. The fixed plates should be plenty for the lows I have?
    20% Accurate

    Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.
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    #2
    Change the wheel bearing for sure, that'll definitely cause noise. It would have to be pretty bad to be causing a vibration, and if it is in fact that bad you should change it immediately. We're talking front?
    - '88 m54 coupe

    <3

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      #3
      Originally posted by Jb325is View Post
      Change the wheel bearing for sure, that'll definitely cause noise. It would have to be pretty bad to be causing a vibration, and if it is in fact that bad you should change it immediately. We're talking front?
      Yes, the front. That's kinda what I was thinking. That it would have to be pretty bad to be creating a wobble. At this point I wouldn't know where else to try and correct this issue.

      The noise I can deal with all day long. I dealt with a my blower for months before taking it apart to clean. It's vibration and shimmy that drives me out the window. The vibration is felt in the wheel, more so on light turning situations and above 50ish. If I were shouldered and turning more than 45* it's smooth, and locked. I can't tell you if it is temperature consistent.

      My plan was to replace the wheel bearing. Weld in rear tabs. Rebuild DS. In that order. But I wanted some professional r3vers guidance on this one.

      I may take a look at that large 30(some odd millimeter) and check that for play. That nut would tighten clockwise? Towards the firewall?
      20% Accurate

      Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

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        #4
        Are you sure your wheels are all straight and your tires are properly balanced? It seems simple but that can really throws things out of whack and give you a shimmy, especially a speed dependent one.

        Comment

          #5
          These cars are pretty sensitive to wheel and tire issues. Even if the wheels and tires are perfectly balanced, they also need to be round and consistent. You may be able to diagnose wheel/tire issues better by swapping the wheels around and seeing if you can move the problem around. A tire shop that has a 'road force' balancer might also be able to help.
          The crappy 14" tires available don't help either. As a general rule, cheap tires have vibration problems because they aren't round or a consistent stiffness. I went to the trouble of having my current Falkens partially shaved by a tire shop to 'true' them. This solved my issue. You might also notice that some tires flat spot a little after sitting, even just over night.

          Comment

            #6
            Based on the description of that wheel bearing id change the bearing....today, and not drive it until its done.

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