OIL PAN Gasket Replacement Tips

[atlzhp6m]

Hello everyone,

This is my first thread on this site so please bare with me. I recently purchased a 325IS from a member here and I have been working on the car to be able to drive it on a daily basis.

Anyways, I searched around for a DIY write up on changing the oil pan gasket and the only specific write-up that I found was on the Pelican Parts site, which suggests you have to completely remove the subframe to be able to drop the oil pan.

Well, I'm happy to say that is not completely accurate, based on the Bentley Manual and my experience yesterday, hereis how I did it without removing the subframe:

This is the procedure on a 1989 325IS:

1- Car raised on jackstands and oil drained from pan of course.

2- Remove all bolts from both sides securing the swaybar. You don't have to completely remove it, just make sure you can push it back and forth

3- Remove the shield plate attached to the tranny bellhousing (4 13mm bolts and 4 torx bolts)

4- Remove all 10mm bolts on the oil pan. To get to the only bolt that sits behind subframe, simply use a 10mm wrench.

5- Remove nuts from engine mounts

6- Raise tranny and engine by placing a jack with a block of wood right under tranny assembly. The purpose of this is to get enough clearance to remove the three 13mm bolts securing the oil pump inside the oil pan

7- Once you have remove the oil pump bolts, lower the oil pan with the pump inside. There is enough room to do this.

As usual, installation is reverse of removal. Hopefully someone will find this useful.

[THATDONFC]

Do you know which size torx you used?

[e30this]

you can use a 12 point 11mm and a 8mm to remove the torx.I think thats what they are.

[THATDONFC]

Thanks... I'm gonna go buy these so I can finish my oil pan replacement.
Do you think it's safe to use a gasket from autozone?

[e30this]

You can use any gasket really. I always use gasket sealer with the gasket too.
thin coat on the bottom thin coat on top.
BTW you dont have to do number 2.

[THATDONFC]

So basically just loosen the motor mounts and then unbolt all the oil pan bolts with the oil pump as well? You're saying I don't need to loosen the sway bar bolts?

[atlzhp6m]

So basically just loosen the motor mounts and then unbolt all the oil pan bolts with the oil pump as well? You're saying I don't need to loosen the sway bar bolts?

read step 2 :)

[DCColegrove]

I don't know if this has already been here but I'll chime in really quick...

1. Use a composite gasket not a cork one!

2. Use only a dab of Dirko sealer (RTV Gray) on the corners where the case covers meet the block in the front and rear.

Trust me on this one.

[CorvallisBMW]

I don't know if this has already been here but I'll chime in really quick...

1. Use a composite gasket not a cork one!

2. Use only a dab of Dirko sealer (RTV Gray) on the corners where the case covers meet the block in the front and rear.

Trust me on this one.

Really? why do you say that?

I only wonder b/c I just replaced mine with an OEM cork gasket, and used RTV grey all around (as per advice from many others)

[DCColegrove]

The OEM cork gaskets leak eventually because they harden and the asymmetric expansion and contraction of the pan and block plus the vibration pulverizes them after a while...

The composite (cardboard like) ones only leak if installed with too much goop on them because of that same scrubbing action between the block and pan, the goop comes unstuck.

This tech information (SOP) is backed by 27 years of BMW oil pan gasket leaks (I've probably done like 300+(???) in that time) and I know what (and how long it took) to come back leaking again.

[peerless]

I agree with the above.

I can't stand cork gaskets and I really can't stand RTV either. I have seen more oil leaks caused by rtv then not. In most case's rtv sealer is not applied correctly and this will almost always cause a leak sooner then if the gasket was simply applied correctly with no sealer.

I personally use a non-hardening liquid aviation gasket sealer/adhesive. I typically only use it on one side to secure the gasket to the mating surface.

RTV :down:

This information is backed by 20+yrs of general automotive repair experience.

[CorvallisBMW]

^ good to know, my vert needs it's gasket changed bad

The coupe hasn't leaked a drop since I did it, it looks perfect. But we'll see how long it holds up. All I know is that both my factory gaskets were that paper/carboard/composite crap and they leak like sieves. And the dealer said cork would hold up a lot better.

[Restoman]

When you remove the cover on the back of the oil pan, for heavens sake remember where each of the 4 torx bolts goes. When it's time to button everything up, it can be very frustrating trying to figure out where each goes.

[dashboardmonkey]

I don't know if this has already been here but I'll chime in really quick...

1. Use a composite gasket not a cork one!

2. Use only a dab of Dirko sealer (RTV Gray) on the corners where the case covers meet the block in the front and rear.

Trust me on this one.

I agree. Using sealant and gasket could squish the gasket out therefore being very unreliable. Gasket or sealant not both.

Andy

[alpinaclone]

I have always liked that anaerobic sealer, it looks like red icing and seems to get everywhere, but it works well. I think this is the same stuff peerless is talking about.