Anyone care to double check my wiring?

[JGood]

I made my spreadsheet for my conversion, and I was just hoping someone with experience could take a quick look at it. I did this myself with the schematics, so I just want to make sure nothing starts on fire when I go to start it

The top chart is my final connections with all c101 wires in the connector listed, the bottom is all of the available x20 wires.






I don't think pin 6 on the c101 is right... but I'm thinking it won't matter if it's not hooked up?

I haven't started on the c104 or the whole speed signal wire issue yet,but I remember reading some stuff on these issues when doing the swap on early cars...

[JGood]

Also, are these the headers and motor mounts everyone is going with?


Headers:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-98-BMW-M3-E36-Stainless-304-Headers-325-328-3-0L-3-2_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ133195QQihZ017QQitemZ270272262593QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Motor mounts:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E24-E28-L6-535-635-CSI-Engine-Motor-Mount-Mounts-2_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50454QQihZ022QQitemZ350095706579QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[FredK]

On the rectangular 19 pin C101, pin 6 does not need to be hooked up. It is hot in start and run and ordinarily, on the M20B27, powers the ICV and together with the Motronic, controls the O2 heater relay. The E36 has the O2 heater relay control integrated onto the engine wiring harness, so you don't need pin 6.

Just tape / heat shrink it off.

Those motor mounts are the correct ones.

I think those are the right headers, but I could be wrong. I am running stock manifolds.

[madjurgen]

Headers:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-98-BMW-M3-E36-Stainless-304-Headers-325-328-3-0L-3-2_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ133195QQihZ017QQitemZ270272262593QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Man, those are way cheaper than the ones most people seem to be using by 'trendy_auto' or 'trader-nas'. Anyone used these specifically?

[JGood]

Man, those are way cheaper than the ones most people seem to be using by 'trendy_auto' or 'trader-nas'. Anyone used these specifically?

I'm pretty sure the price is the only difference. Those headers are sold by about 50 sellers on ebay. Just do a search for "BMW Headers" as not many people list them for e36, they just give a year and model range.

The only different one I saw was the OBX headers... which was twice the price.

On the rectangular 19 pin C101, pin 6 does not need to be hooked up. It is hot in start and run and ordinarily, on the M20B27, powers the ICV and together with the Motronic, controls the O2 heater relay. The E36 has the O2 heater relay control integrated onto the engine wiring harness, so you don't need pin 6.

Just tape / heat shrink it off.

Those motor mounts are the correct ones.

Awesome, thanks.

[yberther]

those headers are the ones I'm running. Fronts install easy, then you gotta pop off the rear control arm mount and the sway bar mount and they slide in :)

Look way better than stock.

[JGood]

Cool, I just picked up the headers and the mounts.

Can anyone verify that it's 6mm that's needs to come off the engine side of the m20 single mass flywheel in order to clear the oil pan?

Also, I'm having trouble finding exactly what needs to be done with the c104 wires.

I found this info, but it's for an e36.

pin 24 on the e36 goes to the red/yellow wire of the c104
pin 14 on the e36 goes to the black wire of the c104
pin 20 of the e36 goes to the wire on the back of the instrument cluster in the circuit board with the green covering that snaps onto the cluster.

Then I found this:

Well I got it fired up tonight!! Here's the wires I used. I will post a complete list of what wires we use all-in-all once the car is done and has an OBC :) Not exactly sure what was wrong with the wiring, I think it was the starter and/or ignition wires on the X20 side of things. It works now!

X20.12, "coolant temp" -> C101.4
X20.13, "Fuel pump relay" -> C101.7, to fuse #11
X20.14, "Speedo" -> green to C104 -> green
X20.15, "Starter" -> C101.8
X20.20, "tachometer" -> black to C104 -> black/blue
X20.21, "Ignition switch" -> C101.10
X20.23, "Oil pressure" -> C101.16
X20.25, "Alternator" -> C101.1

So I see my x20 pin 14 and 20 match that, but the colors of that c104 don't...

Is any of this stuff correct, and can anyone get more specific with how the c104 needs to be wired?

[JGood]

Here's my pinouts for the c104 from the schematics of my car:


C104
Pin: | From: | Color: | To: | Color:
1 | ECU, timing control | Black | Engine speed input | Black
2 | Main Relay | Green | OBC Relay Box | Green/Red
3 | ECU, present fuel rate output | White | Tach, fuel rate input | Black



So it looks like:

• c104 pin 3 needs to go to x20 pin 24
• c104 pin 1 needs to go to x20 pin 14
• c104 pin 2 needs to go to...?
• x20 pin 20 needs to go to the wire at the green connector on the instrument cluster, for engine speed for the tach?

Is this wrong, or is there any additional wiring? Where does c104 pin 2 go?

[jakeb]

I didn't have to machine anything off my m20 flywheel to miss the oil pan.

[EtaSport]

Here's my pinouts for the c104 from the schematics of my car:


C104
Pin: | From: | Color: | To: | Color:
1 | ECU, timing control | Black | Engine speed input | Black
2 | Main Relay | Green | OBC Relay Box | Green/Red
3 | ECU, present fuel rate output | White | Tach, fuel rate input | Black



So it looks like:

• c104 pin 3 needs to go to x20 pin 24
• c104 pin 1 needs to go to x20 pin 14
• c104 pin 2 needs to go to...?
• x20 pin 20 needs to go to the wire at the green connector on the instrument cluster, for engine speed for the tach?

Is this wrong, or is there any additional wiring? Where does c104 pin 2 go?

Pin 2 is for the ignition cutoff for cars with code input on the on board computer. If you really wanted to make it functional I'll dig into what it would need to go to. The others sound about right. Check the colors on the wires, one is black with white stripe and one is white with black stripe.

If your car has cruise you can tap right into the wire that is on that green connector on the cluster, it will throw a cel if its not connected. If you want to put a check engine light in i can give you the steps to do that as well.

The headers and motor mounts are correct, just put the headers on the engine and drop them in together unless its already in. It is possible to get them in with the engine installed, but its tough.

If you shaved the flywheel down then if it didnt clear you wouldnt have to take much off the pan. I shaved my pan down instead and dont really recommend it.

I saw your red car over at the farm complex in harrisburg at one of the auto-xs this season, i believe it was in july. Didnt have my e30 though, had the 36 and left early so i didnt see it run.

[JGood]

Cool, thanks. Yeah, I was at every Susq SCCA event this year. I probably will be next year too, stop by and say hi if you ever come out again.

If your car has cruise you can tap right into the wire that is on that green connector on the cluster, it will throw a cel if its not connected. If you want to put a check engine light in i can give you the steps to do that as well.

What exactly do you mean here, by tap right into it? You mean leave it wired as is, but x20 pin 20 should tap into it?

Yes, I would like a CEL...

[EtaSport]

Cool, thanks. Yeah, I was at every Susq SCCA event this year. I probably will be next year too, stop by and say hi if you ever come out again.





What exactly do you mean here, by tap right into it? You mean leave it wired as is, but x20 pin 20 should tap into it?

Yes, I would like a CEL...

Yes, you can leave it hooked up and just 'tie' into it. As for the check engine light it is activated by a ground wire (i believe it is pin 8 ) its a grey wire. All you need to do is find a spare cluster bulb and socket (like the park brake light) and give it 12 volts key on power, run the other side of the wire to that grey wire and you should be good.

[JGood]

Sweet, thanks. Is there an easy way to tap into our actual CEL for that?

[EtaSport]

85 right.. your car shouldnt have a cel, mine doesnt.

[JGood]

Well, I guess I was thinking of making the "CHECK" thing flash, right in the bottom center. Oh well, I'm sure it's much easier just to throw a bulb in.