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    Wiring harness differences for eta?

    Are there any vast differences between the 325i and 325e wiring harnesses when it comes to making the necessary modifications to the E36 harness? Andrew and I have all of the pinout charts, but I haven't been able to find anything specifically relating to the eta harness.

    BTW, the M50 in question in a '92 E36 non-vanos, and the car is an '86 325es.

    #2
    You have to deal with the c-101 (i think it is) connector with the glove box and the connector in the engine bay vs just the connector in the engine bay on the 88+ cars.
    :: PNW Crew ::
    '87 325 4dr, '74 2002

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      #3
      Anyone else have any info? Ryan, I'm mainly looking for your input here.

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        #4
        If you want my pin charts for the eta/m50 i think i still have them sitting around. If you want to retain all of your OBC functions including the code imobilization function you'll have to get further into that with the c104. The only wire you really need is the black wire for tach. There should be another one there for fuel rate, but i would have to double check if its wired there or in my c101.

        You will also need to wire in a speed input signal to your DME as the eta doesnt use one, but the i does. If your car has cruise control (even it doesnt work or you have removed the drive unit-i did) you can splice into the speed signal wire on the back of the cluster. Those are the main differences.
        Old and improved:

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          #5
          Originally posted by EtaSport View Post
          If you want my pin charts for the eta/m50 i think i still have them sitting around. If you want to retain all of your OBC functions including the code imobilization function you'll have to get further into that with the c104. The only wire you really need is the black wire for tach. There should be another one there for fuel rate, but i would have to double check if its wired there or in my c101.

          You will also need to wire in a speed input signal to your DME as the eta doesnt use one, but the i does. If your car has cruise control (even it doesnt work or you have removed the drive unit-i did) you can splice into the speed signal wire on the back of the cluster. Those are the main differences.
          I don't have an OBC anymore, so that's not needed. And my cruise control doesn't work, but I'd like to fix it.

          If you could get me those pin charts, that would be awesome! eurospeed88@gmail.com

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by EtaSport View Post
            If you want my pin charts for the eta/m50 i think i still have them sitting around. If you want to retain all of your OBC functions including the code imobilization function you'll have to get further into that with the c104. The only wire you really need is the black wire for tach. There should be another one there for fuel rate, but i would have to double check if its wired there or in my c101.

            You will also need to wire in a speed input signal to your DME as the eta doesnt use one, but the i does. If your car has cruise control (even it doesnt work or you have removed the drive unit-i did) you can splice into the speed signal wire on the back of the cluster. Those are the main differences.
            Do you know where in the back of the cluster that has to tie in at? I think that's the last wire I have to connect... I just remember hearing something about the green plug on the back...

            thnx
            -Brandon
            '86 325es S50
            '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
            '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
            '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

            For sale:
            S50 TMS chip for Schricks

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              #7
              e30-e36
              pin 1-pin 25 alternator
              pin 2 oil level static-(not used on e36) (you can wire the oil level sensor up to this wire)
              pin 3x (nothing here)
              pin 4-pin 12 coolant temp
              pin 5-pin 23 oil pressure (i need to double check this)
              pin 6 e30 o2 sensor relay power, goes to nothing
              pin 7-pin 21 Starter input (e30 side should have two wires, just tie them both in)
              pin 10 dynamic oil level (not used on e36, once again, you can wire this in if you want)
              pin 11-pin 19 SI reset function
              pin 13-pin 13 Fuel pump relay
              pin 15-pin 15 unloader relay
              16x
              17x not used
              pin 18-pin 18 Starter
              19x not used

              pin 24 on the e36 goes to the red/yellow wire of the c104
              pin 14 on the e36 goes to the black wire of the c104
              pin 20 of the e36 goes to the wire on the back of the instrument cluster in the circuit board with the green covering that snaps onto the cluster.

              beej that last one is the one you are referring to, if you dont hook the speed input wire up you will get a check engine light and limited rpm range (redline at like 6300 or so).

              Since the eta has no check engine light, you can hook up a small light with 12 volts and run its ground side through pin 8 of the e36 harness. This will give you a CEL and should even blink with the "stomp" test.

              thats all i can think about right now.
              Old and improved:

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                #8
                cool thanks! Looks like it should be this wire:

                -Brandon
                '86 325es S50
                '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
                '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
                '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

                For sale:
                S50 TMS chip for Schricks

                Comment


                  #9
                  Those two wires keep the OBC function? Or is there more to it?

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by etasport View Post
                    if you want my pin charts for the eta/m50 i think i still have them sitting around. If you want to retain all of your obc functions including the code imobilization function you'll have to get further into that with the c104. The only wire you really need is the black wire for tach. There should be another one there for fuel rate, but i would have to double check if its wired there or in my c101.
                    looks like it

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                      #11
                      sorry to bring this back... but im working with the exact same thing that janderson is working with...My harness connector is wired right (PO did the adapter, but i think he had an "i"), but im not really sure what to do with the c101? ive got power to the starter, and to all the interior functions.. but i dont have fuel or spark! I really dont care about the obc functions and shit, i just want my tach to work, and lol my engine to start!! can anyone help?

                      EDIT: i mean the c104? i guess i have to open the adapter back up? and get those wires out?
                      Last edited by dnick; 11-08-2011, 07:43 PM.

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                        #12
                        You need to check power to the main relay. It should have constant power from the battery (solid red) and it needs to power up the red/white wire with key on. If you don't have power on your red/white wires then lots of things won't work. Also check switched power at the fuel pump relay. It sounds to me like you missed a power wire at the battery connection.
                        Old and improved:

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                          #13
                          My coolant gauge gets power but it doesn't build up, I'm using an eta C101 to an E36 M50 one. Is this a fault of the ETA's C101 or simply a wiring fault of mine?
                          Originally posted by TSI
                          ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
                          OEM+

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post
                            My coolant gauge gets power but it doesn't build up, I'm using an eta C101 to an E36 M50 one. Is this a fault of the ETA's C101 or simply a wiring fault of mine?
                            Sounds like its probably a bad sensor. I had this same problem on a 2.7i I just hooked up and it turned out to be the sensor.

                            As for the c104, the only wire your probably gonna be concerned with is the black wire. It is easy enough to splice it directly at the dme connector harness. It's the only black wire on that harness. The black white wire will give you your fuel rate..
                            Old and improved:

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                              #15
                              So I splice it at the ECU and run a long ass wire to the C101?
                              Fuel rate is correlated to the econometer right? What exactly does it do?
                              Originally posted by TSI
                              ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
                              OEM+

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