CAB bolt broke in frame

gtdragon980 · 02-23-2012, 11:31 AM

Well, as the title states, the bolt for the cab broke off as I was tightening it with a impact...

To make matters worse, I found out that the PO also broke a bolt off in the second hole, so I have no way of mounting my CAB at all. So, I'm going to attempt using an extractor to remove it, but if it does not want to back out since it is really rusty, I'm going to have to drill it out. Doing so may screw my threads up and I will need to heli-coil the threads. My question is, does anybody know what size heli-coil I should get for this particular issue? I know its an m10, but I need to know the length of the hole for how long the heli-coil should be, and I don't have any means of finding it out as of right now. Thanks in advance!

KEVORM · 02-23-2012, 12:21 PM

i would think with plenty of PB blaster or WD-40 a left hand drill bit and an easy out you should be able to get it. Good luck, sheared bolts are no fun

drumad · 02-23-2012, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtdragon980

but I need to know the length of the hole for how long the heli-coil should be, and I don't have any means of finding it out as of right now

Look at the other side.

StereoInstaller1 · 02-23-2012, 01:07 PM

I broke one off on my car too.

To make it worse, I screwed up when using the easy outs and broke one of those off too.

Worse yet was I found out I was drilling between the bolt and the threads...FML.

What I ended up doing was chopping a small hole in the side of the frame rail, chopping out the "nutsert" looking thing that was the "nut" originally, then welded 2 nuts to a strip of metal and shoving it in, bolting up the CAB and welding the hole shut.

Pulled up nice and tight, aligned perfectly, drove great. Sounds like a win, right?

It sucks. When I wrecked that car last spring, a small fenderbender trashed my car. It is headed to the crusher. Seriously, if you saw the visible damage, you would laugh...but it is a bitch to get it to drive in a straight line, it is waffleswaffleswaffleswafflesed. No damage to the trailing arms or the control arms, but it tries to drive in a circle...the car is trash.

Good luck, bud. That is a bitch to deal with.

Luke

gtdragon980 · 02-23-2012, 04:59 PM

@kevorm giving that a try this weekend, hopefully things go smoothly!

@drumad is it not closed off on the other side? Or am i ruhtard and didn't realize I can access the holes from the top...wow I really need to work on my wording lol

@luke sounds like I'm in for a world of trouble huh? Hopefully I can just drill the damn thing out and rethread it. I know I won't have it come out a easy a using an extractor!

gtdragon980 · 02-23-2012, 05:02 PM

Okay now I feel stupid for not understanding what you meant drumad, lol I just didn't want to take the other side apart and waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles that up aswell since everything is back together on it!

cormier · 02-23-2012, 05:20 PM

Nothing to grab onto with pliers or anything?

Northern · 02-23-2012, 05:33 PM

Use a proper sized easy out the way it is supposed to be used on the bolt you sheared off and you shouldn't have any problem getting it out.

drumad · 02-24-2012, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtdragon980

Okay now I feel stupid for not understanding what you meant drumad, lol I just didn't want to take the other side apart and waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles that up aswell since everything is back together on it!

Haha no. I was hoping I understood what you meant as well.

I'm pretty sure it's a thru hole so you can just finger it and check the depth.

gtdragon980 · 02-24-2012, 04:25 PM

Well, I will take a look at it this weekend and see what I can do about it. I can't really remember if there is much of the bolt sticking out still or not. We'll see what happens!

Farbin Kaiber · 02-24-2012, 04:32 PM

Weld a nut to the broken off bolt portion?

Image for comprehension...

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=62298

The heat from welding helps break the bolt threads loose as well.

etxxz · 02-24-2012, 05:28 PM

Screw Extractor kits are really good. Since its the head that broke off there shouldn't be much torque holding the bolt in place.

Drill hole,
Insert Extractor (reverse threaded)
Twist in by hand! untill it locks and extract screw.

Drill with patience don't wobble around and wear safety glasses. Lube your bit often too. This should be a 15-30min job, 80% of it drilling with patience.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farbin Kaiber

Weld a nut to the broken off bolt portion?

Image for comprehension...

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=62298

The heat from welding helps break the bolt threads loose as well.

wow that's a brillian idea. will use in future.

gtdragon980 · 02-25-2012, 12:03 PM

waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles! Well, apparently I suck or I did something wrong, but I broke the tip of the extractor into the bolt!! The bolt is sticking out maybe 1-2mm but it is not enough for some vise-grips to twist out. It's really stuck in there! I would do what you said Farbin, but I need to find someone who can weld it on for me. No access to such equipment for me to do it. I'm going to see if I can find a service to weld it on for me.

Farbin Kaiber · 02-25-2012, 12:07 PM

You twisted too hard.

gtdragon980 · 02-25-2012, 12:18 PM

^figured. I put the setting on the drill to high torque and slowly turned it and snap, the thing broke! This thing is really kicking my ass right now.

02-23-2012, 12:21 PM	#2
KEVORM Advanced Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Seattle WA / Tempe AZ Posts: 194	i would think with plenty of PB blaster or WD-40 a left hand drill bit and an easy out you should be able to get it. Good luck, sheared bolts are no fun __________________ 84' 325i -> PRO3 Because Racecar Powered by Manntechnik Work in Progress Build Thread 07' APR Stg 2+ MkV GTI -> DD

02-23-2012, 01:07 PM	#4
StereoInstaller1 GAS Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Chehalis, WA Posts: 21,083	I broke one off on my car too. To make it worse, I screwed up when using the easy outs and broke one of those off too. Worse yet was I found out I was drilling between the bolt and the threads...FML. What I ended up doing was chopping a small hole in the side of the frame rail, chopping out the "nutsert" looking thing that was the "nut" originally, then welded 2 nuts to a strip of metal and shoving it in, bolting up the CAB and welding the hole shut. Pulled up nice and tight, aligned perfectly, drove great. Sounds like a win, right? It sucks. When I wrecked that car last spring, a small fenderbender trashed my car. It is headed to the crusher. Seriously, if you saw the visible damage, you would laugh...but it is a bitch to get it to drive in a straight line, it is waffleswaffleswaffleswafflesed. No damage to the trailing arms or the control arms, but it tries to drive in a circle...the car is trash. Good luck, bud. That is a bitch to deal with. Luke __________________ THE 'VERT BOX IS BACK Click HERE FREE SHIPPING AND FREE T-SHIRT! Click HERE Tutorials: Killer $500 Stereo \| E30 Vert Dual 8'' Box Installation \| E3010 Amp Rack Installation \| Radio Wiring and Amp Bypass \| Basic Amplifier Tuning Guide

02-23-2012, 05:20 PM	#7
cormier Grease Monkey Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mississauga Posts: 385	Nothing to grab onto with pliers or anything? __________________

02-24-2012, 04:32 PM	#11
Farbin Kaiber f_spec Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Eastern Idaho Posts: 26,492 Images: 7	Weld a nut to the broken off bolt portion? Image for comprehension... http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=62298 The heat from welding helps break the bolt threads loose as well. __________________ f_spec Automotive \| THE FSPEC BLOG

02-25-2012, 12:07 PM	#14
Farbin Kaiber f_spec Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Eastern Idaho Posts: 26,492 Images: 7	You twisted too hard. __________________ f_spec Automotive \| THE FSPEC BLOG