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    Coolant leak from head? urgent, wrong section, I know

    Posting in general discussion for some quick answers, I've only got til tomorrow afternoon to work on the car as it's at my GFs parents house as I don't have parking at my apartment.

    My plan was to connect the heater hoses, install a new thermostat, new hoses, etc tomorrow. Of course I get to the car today and theres a puddle of coolant under it.

    Now my original problem was a leak in the nipple under the thermostat housing, hence why I've bought a new thermostat housing. But by the looks of it, this isn't where the leak started from - the majority of the coolant seems to be running down the drivers side of the block, close to the oil tube. It seems to be originating from the head gasket. Oh, and it doesn't look like it ran down from the thermostat to the other side of the block (looked relatively dry around the thermostat housing) even though the car might be slightly parked on a slight incline but I'm not sure. If anything, there was more coolant around the dipstick tube than there was close to the thermostat, unless it is ninja leaking and I didn't see it.

    So part of me wants to throw on the new thermostat housing and see if the leak persists. But the rational part of me is saying that I've already flushed the coolant out because of various leaks at least 3 times, and coolant isn't getting any cheaper. I'd like to avoid putting more coolant in it just to have to drain it all out again when I need a head gasket.

    Oh, and before you say so, I can't reuse the coolant because my drain plug at the bottom of the rad is rusted on damn tight.

    So R3v, in your unlimited experience, is it the head gasket or is it the thermostat housing?

    #2
    There might be a leak from the housing, but all the leaking around the block has to be the head gasket. Also, you could try some PB blaster overnight on the radiator plug to try to loosen it.
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      #3
      Good thinking, I'll try that.

      What are the symptoms of a blow head gasket? I know that there's usually smoke from the exhaust, but I only see white smoke during first 1-2 mins or until it warms up.

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        #4
        You may have done this already, but just in case: There is a hose that runs from the heater to the thermostat housing, and it runs above the driver's side of the block (at least it does on mine). Make sure there isn't a hole in the bottom of that hose that is simply dripping down in that area.

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          #5
          Check the hose on the back driver's side of the block? It's a bitch to get to.
          Current Collection: 1990 325is // 1987 325i Vert // 2003 525i 5spd // 1985 380SL // 1992 Ranger 5spd // 2005 Avalanche // 2024 Honda Grom SP

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            #6
            At the very least, you could use a rag and poke it back there to check for dampness. Attach it to a screwdriver or something if it's too narrow for an arm.
            Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

            Elva Courier build thread here!

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              #7
              The heater hoses aren't connected, so there's no coolant coming from them. The hoses on the back of the head seem to be in good condition.

              I just checked it again, and it's pretty damn clear that the leak is coming from the head gasket :( about half way through. Actually, at certain points it almost seems like its coming from the intake manifold, but I'm assuming thats impossible.

              So next step... do I pull the head and check it out? Or compression test?

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                #8
                What engine, I just had to replace the coolant manifold pipe that connects to the drivers side of the engine block because the seal was bad, I am not sure if the m20 has something similar, but it was a bitch to get in and out but after replacing it it was much better

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                  #9
                  B25.

                  What coolant manifold pipe?

                  I think I'm gonna pull the head tomorrow with the help of the GF and check it out. I shall update with pictures later tomorrow because I have no idea how to tell if it's in great/good/bad condition.

                  Engine was supposedly rebuilt 90k kms ago, but not sure if I believe that.

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                    #10
                    If you know you're posting in the wrong section, don't do it!

                    Thread moved.
                    BimmerHeads
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                    Santa Clarita, CA

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                      #11
                      Are you certain its not leaking from the throttle body heater hoses or the plate they attach to ? Very common...and I know its cold in PQ but you might try using plain water for diagnostic purposes.
                      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
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                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
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                        #12
                        +1, While working out the cooling system problems use plain water and protect the car from freezing, or just drain all the water out.
                        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                          #13
                          So I pulled the intake manifold off this morning to get a better look. I've attached pictures below. It seems like the leak is coming from the HG, but I'd appreciate some experienced opinions.

                          And can someone tell me what the opening is between the two intake 'flanges' or whatever you call them in the second pic? (ignore the gay gloves, its damn cold here)







                          upload photos
                          Last edited by Andy348; 01-01-2013, 05:59 AM.

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                            #14
                            That is the area where the water jackets are located within the head so its quite possible that the Headgasket is leaking in those areas. If you pull the valve cover as I assume you will. Check for proper torque readings on all the nuts that hold the head down. They are supposed to be torqued at 60 ft lbs as I recall. Plus after they are torqued down then there is supposed to be a heat cycle performed (warm up engine to operating temperature for a while) and then retorqued to 60 ft lbs if they have deviated from that spec.

                            Wait for others to chime in with diagnosis as well. Love the Dr Seuss gloves!

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                              #15
                              Actually the 885 head is torque to yield meaning 22 lbs then 90 degrees then another 90 degrees all without running the engine. The proper head bolts are torx and are a 1 time use. If you still have hex head bolts they were recalled due to breakageissues and should be swapped out regardless. In fact that could very well be your problem.
                              Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                              https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                              Alice the Time Capsule
                              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                              87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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