Rear subframe & TA refresh parts

[Panici]

Hey guys,

My spring project (before I put the car on the road for the summer) is a rear subframe and trailing arm refresh.

The plan right now is to drop the whole rear subframe assembly, sandblast, replace & reinforce, and then paint with POR15.

Parts I have already:
-Good condition used trailing arms
-Lemforder subframe bushings
-Lemforder trailing arm bushings
-Lemforder rear swaybar links
-Rear brakeline "T" piece
-Rear rubber brake lines
-Rebuilt calipers
-Thinner rear spring pads (upper and lower)
-Rear shock mount reinforcements (ordered stainless reinforcements from r3v forum member)
-Rubber diff mount (33171135242)
-New rear shock mounts
-Diff cover gasket (33-11-1-210-405)
-2x subframe bolts (51718181460)
-2x Parking / Ebrake cables (34411158421)
-2x Output flange seals (33107505602)
-2x o-rings (33111214144)
-Reverse light switch (23141354071)(Unrelated, but i'm including in same order. Here so I don't forget.)

Parts to buy:

-Hard brake lines (going to bend my own)
-2x subframe nuts (33331126136) [M14x1.5 Class 10.9]


I've already done rear rotors, pads, e-brake shoes, springs, dampers, diff fluid.

What else do I need? What else should I be doing at the same time?
I'm of the mindset to do it once, and do it right.
I'm eventually planning a 24v turbo setup, so any "while I'm in there" upgrades are probably worth it.

Do you think it's worth doing the rear wheel bearings while everything is apart?


Cheers!

[jeffnhiscars]

If you do the diff bushing of course you will swap th diff cover gasket but also do the output flange seals and o rings. I'd also suggest you replace the fuel filler hose and the rubber bushing since it's much easier with the subframe out

[88BlackS-ETA]

New subframe bolts. Not to expensive IMO from bmw.

[Panici]

If you do the diff bushing of course you will swap th diff cover gasket but also do the output flange seals and o rings. I'd also suggest you replace the fuel filler hose and the rubber bushing since it's much easier with the subframe out

I hadn't looked at instructions to change the diff bushing, and didn't realize I need to take the cover off. Thanks for the heads up!

How difficult is it to change the output flange seals and orings? I've never done it before.

New subframe bolts. Not to expensive IMO from bmw.

Noted, thanks!

[jeffnhiscars]

Seals and o rings are the easiest part of this entire project. Once the diff is out its 15 min/side. Should be some good DIY threads around.

[estoguy]

Seals and o rings are the easiest part of this entire project. Once the diff is out its 15 min/side. Should be some good DIY threads around.

Second on this... I did the input and output seals on my diff when I did my subframe. Since you'll have it out, doing the input might not be a bad idea. Bentley covers this... except on thing - the torque they say is way off... you just need to get the put back in the exact same position. You have to mark the positions on the nut and diff. Bentley shows this.

This thread from E30tech was super helpful.

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthr...t=39599&page=4

TIP: DON'T TAKE OFF THE C-CLIPS AND TRY TO REPLACE THEM!!! THEY ARE A PAIN TO REPLACE. I got new C-rings with the seal kits, and started replacing one. Leaving the old ones on is no issue. They just help hold things together when the shafts aren't bolted on.

[Panici]

Do these look like the right part numbers to you guys?

Shaft seal with lock ring - 33107505602
O-ring - 33111214144

From: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_0116

Since you'll have it out, doing the input might not be a bad idea.

To do the input shaft seal, won't I need to take apart the entire diff and then set the lash etc? I've never done gear work before, so this is probably outside my expertise.

[estoguy]

Do these look like the right part numbers to you guys?

Shaft seal with lock ring - 33107505602
O-ring - 33111214144

From: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_0116




To do the input shaft seal, won't I need to take apart the entire diff and then set the lash etc? I've never done gear work before, so this is probably outside my expertise.

Yessir... those numbers are right for the output seal/o-ring.

And to your second question on the input seal, no. You need to reference the position of the nut relative to the shaft. See the Bentley Manual for an illustration.

The one part in the Bentley that is WRONG about the process is the collar nut torque. There is NO WAY it was tightened to either 111 ft lbs (318) or 229 ft lbs for any other E30. My buddy and I used an impact gun on low power and it came off very easily. Put it back on the same way and matched the reference marks we made. It wasn't high torque, that's for sure. And the car has been driving for over a year and half, so we obviously didn't screw anything up.

[Panici]

Do you think it's worth doing the rear wheel bearings while everything is apart?

[Seawolf]

Parking / Emergency brake cables. These are cheap and much easier to replace with the subframe out - particularly if they are seized in the tube.

[Panici]

Parking / Emergency brake cables. These are cheap and much easier to replace with the subframe out - particularly if they are seized in the tube.

Part number: 34411158421

I have yet to price them locally, but pelicanparts is showing $22 per side.


My parking brake works fine, but I may replace these. How much more difficult is it to replace them while the subframe is on the car?

[Seawolf]

They are awkward and there isn't a great deal of room to get tools on the cable ferrules if they have seized in the tube. Channel locks might work but in extreme cases they can be a real PIA because there isn't a lot of material to get a grip on.

If yours are extreme my how to do looks like this:
1) Cut the cable off at the ferrule with a Dremel and cutting disc (there's no going back from this point)
2) Pull the forward end of the cable out from inside the car.
3) Pull out the nylon cable sleeve from the ferrule under the car with needle nose pliers.
4) Fire PB Blaster into the cable tunnel through now empty ferrule.
5) Drill out the ferrule to 7/64" - you can't get a drill in there but you can get a drill snake to reach over the rear suspension arm.
6) Carefully tap an M8 x 1 thread into the ferrule.
7) Insert M8 x 1 bolt.
8) Steady the cable tunnel with channel locks to prevent bending or other damage.
9) Fit socket & ratchet on inserted bolt.
10) Heave.
11) Fire more PB Blaster into the cable tunnel and keep rotating the now freed ferrule.
12) Pull the bastard out.

Go and make a cuppa or pour yourself a glass of plonk depending on time of day. - Now do the other side.

So if you have the sub-frame out, replace them.

[gart]

I would while you are in there. I suppose it wouldn't be bad to do later but why not while it's all apart? Don't make the mistake I didn and pull the whole subframe,TA's without breaking the spindle nuts first. It was a pain to break them loose after the assembly was out of the car.

Do you think it's worth doing the rear wheel bearings while everything is apart?

[Seawolf]

I would while you are in there

The BMW 'E' series owners club motto....

[Panici]

They are awkward and there isn't a great deal of room to get tools on the cable ferrules if they have seized in the tube.
...
So if you have the sub-frame out, replace them.

Thanks for the details, read you loud and clear.
I'll be replacing the e-brake cables.

\Don't make the mistake I didn and pull the whole subframe,TA's without breaking the spindle nuts first. It was a pain to break them loose after the assembly was out of the car.

As in the axle nuts?
Good tip, I'll break them free first.

The BMW 'E' series owners club motto....

'E' series owners club?