Haven't been able to find it without being able to get codes. And I've lost alot of motivation with it.
feeler: Alpine 4door obd1 m52
Collapse
X
-
-
So clean, awesome price!~ Puch Cafe. ~ Do business? feedback ~ Check out my leather company ~
Instagram: @BWeissLeather
Current cars:
~ '87 325 M30B35 swap
~ '87 535
~ 01 540 Msport 6spd
~ '06 X5 4.8isComment
-
I feel bad. Haven't been able to drive it over the whole summer. I feel like I wasted a huge chunk of money. Got a couple other things to try this week.Comment
-
Idling??
Fix it that’s what you wanted. Get a can of Either/Starting Fluid fiend that problem. Loose Hoses / Bad Injector's, O-Rings - M.A.F / Plug. GLComment
-
dude. try try try again.
maybe something is cracked and sucking air. make sure that the tps is tight and in the correct position as well.My feedback:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=186328
http://e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74911
Instagram:
@gears_n_glory
@functionmotorsportsComment
-
It only does it after the car runs for 10 15 minutes. If it was a vaccum leak it seems it would do it from the start. It starts idling up and down then will stall.Comment
-
Hey 89325iturbo - Rubber softens when it gets warm, Have you Cleaned / Checked your MAF Resistance? Are all your intake hoses tight / sealed ? You can also unplug one injector at a time to fined the bad one and also Your Coils one at a time. Starting Fluid will let you easily fined an air intake leak. GL
Don't give up! You will probably fix it with out spending any more money.Comment
-
Comment
-
I would start with starting Fluid you could have a bad seal some where, Maybe where the Intake connects to Head or a cracked Intake manifold, I have seen bad Coil Boots with hair line cracks that shorts out when warmed up you can usually see a Carbon Trail on the rubber thou. Look at them closely. You could also have a Bad Valve Cover Plug Seal allowing oil to leak into one of the plugs and short the spark to ground. I have also seen Coils work and become intermittent when warm. A new MAF dose not always mean it is a good one. GL, Hope I made some kind of since.Comment
-
Fix your diagnostic plug. Most many adapters don't power it up. You can heither half ass it with a wire (fused) to the power block, or you can do it properly at the X20.
Chasing your tail like this is just plain stupid.2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd
sigpicComment
-
So put a fuse in line and connect it to the power block, but were do I wire it on the diagnostic port? Do I need a ground wire? And I would still need to buy a scan tool.Comment
-
Many of use have loaners, I have two peake tools an a OBD II scanner. I will be out your way this weekend for the CCA event in Shewsbury.Comment
-
I can vouch for the motor/ZF, I sold it to him out of a running and driving 1997 328is with great compression numbers. The motor ran smooth and had plenty of power.
I might have missed it, but have you checked the icv hoses and made sure the icv is clean and the valve moves freely?Last edited by sho24vdohc; 09-09-2010, 11:20 AM.Comment
-
Yeah there's nothing wrong with the motor itself. It runs smooth and quiet, until the idle starts to jump. It almost seems it's based of temperature, cuz it takes the same amount of time each time when the jumping idle comes on.
Different icv and new hoses.Comment
Comment