FS: Rebuilt M20 885 Cylinder Heads (and more) by BimmerHeads

[MR 325]

so I've done some researching....do I need to run an adjustable cam gear with a hotter cam?

I've read countless threads on here and e30tech saying some guys don't and some do......doesn't make sense....piston contact or no?....if I don't stay anal on my valve adjustments how much danger am I putting myself into? Should I just stay on a stock or very mild cam?

also...what would I need to source from my original head to the new one in order to run this?

I know stretch bolts are used for the head and are one time use.....but what about the exhaust and intake mani studs? should they be replaced?


I'm 90% on an oem head gasket kit, buying a t-belt+tensioner and doing the water pump again if it has any play in it at all...its only like 10k old..

what else will I need? sorry if I'm derailing the thread but I've searched here and e30tech to my wits end.

You absolutely do NOT need an adjustable cam gear. We have never run one on any of the heads/engines/cars we've built. If you were to get a seriously large cam you "may" need it but anything in the 270-290 range will not require it.

The cylinder heads are shipped complete with cam gears and oil tubes. You will of course need to swap over your intake manifold, thermostat housing, exhaust manifolds, and valve cover.

The intake and exhaust studs absolutely do not need to be replaced, they are not a wear item. We check and replace any damaged studs before a head ships to a buyer.

All you would NEED is the HG set and the timing belt set. If your water pump only has 10k on it you really should not need to replace it. If you don't have a Beltley repair manual I would recommend getting one to guide you through the head swap.

Thanks,
Matt

[delatlanta1281]

Matt is right. No an adjustable cam gear isn't a must have. Save your money for something else if you are on a budget.

[BergerNJ]

You absolutely do NOT need an adjustable cam gear. We have never run one on any of the heads/engines/cars we've built. If you were to get a seriously large cam you "may" need it but anything in the 270-290 range will not require it.

The cylinder heads are shipped complete with cam gears and oil tubes. You will of course need to swap over your intake manifold, thermostat housing, exhaust manifolds, and valve cover.

The intake and exhaust studs absolutely do not need to be replaced, they are not a wear item. We check and replace any damaged studs before a head ships to a buyer.

All you would NEED is the HG set and the timing belt set. If your water pump only has 10k on it you really should not need to replace it. If you don't have a Beltley repair manual I would recommend getting one to guide you through the head swap.

Thanks,
Matt

Matt is right. No an adjustable cam gear isn't a must have. Save your money for something else if you are on a budget.

thanks for the quick responses. I have the bentley and have read it a few times now.

Was just going over the pictures and was wondering about the studs.....I'll prob be placing an order soon. I know I need the various replacement kits, and I'll prob end up replacing a shit ton of rubber on my coolant system.

I read some thread on e30tech with some guys talking about the necessity of an adjustable cam gear and began to worry. Thanks guys



Another question: How come so many people claim that porting and polishing the intake side is detrimental to the flow? Logic states more space for more air to flow=more power......I'm just trying to learn here and understand.

[MR 325]

Another question: How come so many people claim that porting and polishing the intake side is detrimental to the flow? Logic states more space for more air to flow=more power......I'm just trying to learn here and understand.

There's definitely a long-running debate on the best ways to make power. Some people say porting is fine and polishing isn't, some say that you should port the intake and not the exhaust. It's something we could go on and on about. Bottom line is that Myster-e has been taught by engine builders who are known worldwide, machinists who have been building engines and making big power since before most of R3V was born. :)

[FrozenSolid]

intrested in a port/polished 885 head. can you grind/install 1mm larger valves? i have my own new camshaft and a set of +1mm valves that i can supply. please pm me with a quote! thanks

[MR 325]

intrested in a port/polished 885 head. can you grind/install 1mm larger valves? i have my own new camshaft and a set of +1mm valves that i can supply. please pm me with a quote! thanks

PM sent, sorry for the delay.

[delatlanta1281]

There's definitely a long-running debate on the best ways to make power. Some people say porting is fine and polishing isn't, some say that you should port the intake and not the exhaust. It's something we could go on and on about. Bottom line is that Myster-e has been taught by engine builders who are known worldwide, machinists who have been building engines and making big power since before most of R3V was born. :)

It also has to do with the internal shape of the 885 head. If you over port the head, you can have too much air coming in which affects the combustion chamber and the exit of exhaust gasses out of the exhaust side. A mild port and polish like these heads have, sould not affect those peramiters. It is said that the angle of the intake ports as compared to a euro 323 head are more "pronounced" leaving very little material for an aggressive port angle. While the 323 head has more material to work with (shape) and is closer to the intake angles of an m30 head.
My wording isn't as technical as my piston designer's is, and by no means as detailed, but in a nutshell, this is what I have been told.
Don't even get me started on what we discussed regarding exhausts...

[James Crivellone]

My stock rebuilt head came in a few days ago for the Pro-3 car. Assuming it works as nice as it looks I'm very pleased. Awesome prices and fantastic quality of work.

[MR 325]

My stock rebuilt head came in a few days ago for the Pro-3 car. Assuming it works as nice as it looks I'm very pleased. Awesome prices and fantastic quality of work.

Thank you James!

You know you've "made it" when you're building a cylinder head for the KING of R3VLimited. :D

[Aviator]

Newbie question alert. I have the 2.7 e engine, if I drop this head on will I gain any hp or tq? Or will I need different pistons too? I'm thinking of just getting a turner chip.

[MR 325]

Newbie question alert. I have the 2.7 e engine, if I drop this head on will I gain any hp or tq? Or will I need different pistons too? I'm thinking of just getting a turner chip.

We did a 325e with one of these heads and that car was quick! You will definitely see a gain in power but I highly recommend switching the car over to the M20B25 engine harness, sensors, ECU, etc. You'll also want to switch to a 3.46 or 3.73 diff.

[dAv3]

You're on the right track Aviator - I plan to run one of these on a SETA bottom end with 19# injectors and a 284/272 cam. Still not sure about EMS, but I have some time to figure that out. Would a 4.10 be too high for this sort of setup? People keep saying so, but I'm inclined to disagree.

MR 325, check your PMs brah!

[MR 325]

You're on the right track Aviator - I plan to run one of these on a SETA bottom end with 19# injectors and a 284/272 cam. Still not sure about EMS, but I have some time to figure that out. Would a 4.10 be too high for this sort of setup? People keep saying so, but I'm inclined to disagree.

MR 325, check your PMs brah!

Sorry for the delay, replied to the PM.

I really would recommend the 3.73 diff with the combo you want to run. The 2.7 bottom end is nice and torquey and really doesn't need the 4.10 behind it.

[jamato]

I suckered in ordered mine yesterday! :up:

[MR 325]

I suckered in ordered mine yesterday! :up:

Thanks for the order! You talked to Shant directly over the phone, right?