Lookin 4 some adjustable camber plates

[modifiede30]

well i'll probly get the street plates from you if you can set up a ebay auction for me. 1.25 should probly get me close to where i need to be.

Why don't you just go to my store and buy them?

[BahnE30]

just slot them, aslong as you do a neat and the nuts are tightened down you won't have any worries, mine are done this way. the best part about it is i can go from -3.0 to 1.5 in about 10 minutes per side. i just had then slot them so that hard in is 3.0 and out is 1.5 not a problem....

[modifiede30]

well i'll probly get the street plates from you if you can set up a ebay auction for me. 1.25 should probly get me close to where i need to be.

Also, keep in mind that the 1.25 degrees is negative, not positive. Which way are you trying to go?

[Mr.SWISS]

Toward the outside of the car.(think thats neg)

[rs4pro3]

that would be positive, towards the center is negative

[modifiede30]

If the top of the tire is towards the car's center and the bottom is towards the sidewalk, that's negative camber. To get the car back to stock settings, the strut bearing must be moved towards the sidewalk so that the angle is moved from negative to 0. If you need more than .5 degrees positive, you can combine the camber plates with the offset strut bearings which will give you about 1-1.25 of positive. For negative, you'll have plenty of room to move them around.

[Mr.SWISS]

Well I took my boalegged e30 in to have the toe set and get an idea on exactly how much my camber is out of spec and its negative 2.0-2.3 out so "m guessing I need at least 1.5 worth of positive to staightin her out. the caster is out a little too but the shop said thats not a big deal and it could correct with the camber staightened. Also the rear camber is out, What do I do about that??? And they said the offset cotrol arm bushings will just make things worse. input????????

[modifiede30]

Well I took my boalegged e30 in to have the toe set and get an idea on exactly how much my camber is out of spec and its negative 2.0-2.3 out so "m guessing I need at least 1.5 worth of positive to staightin her out. the caster is out a little too but the shop said thats not a big deal and it could correct with the camber staightened. Also the rear camber is out, What do I do about that??? And they said the offset cotrol arm bushings will just make things worse. input????????

I did a search for stock alignment settings and found that the camber should be between -1.19 and -.19 (if the alignment report I found is correct - I would confirm these in a Bentely manual). As a result, you'd need to get at least 1.11 degrees of adjustment in the worst case scenario. When you say the caster is out, can you clarify in which direction? Should be between 8 and 9 degrees (again, if that report I found is correct). I suspect your caster is over 9 but if its not too far over 9, I'd leave it alone and see what the camber change does to it.

As for rear camber/toe, there is a kit for this that you can weld to the trailing arm pivot points of the subframe that allow for camber and toe adjustment. However, this will require the subframe to be removed (essentially the entire rear end of the car). Another alternative is to buy offset eccentric trailing arm bushings which would at least correct the camber and possibly help with the toe. Unfortunately, without your actual alignment readings, its a bit difficult to give you any accurate advice since I'm guessing a bit based on what you posted.

[Mr.SWISS]

I'll post the entire spec sheeet they printed out for me when I had the toe set. What about the front control arm offset bushings?

[marakka]

Offset CAB's will increase your caster. They move the bottom ball joint forward a bit. By doing this it allows the tire to "lay down" more in the turns. A plus for hard drivers who power through the turns. It allows the tire to have more "flat" contact with the road. Adding offset CAB's to the setup will complicate things unless you plan on racing. Stick with stock stuff.

[Mr.SWISS]

front right front left
actual range actual range
-2.7 -1.2,-0.2 camber -1.9 -1.2,0.2
8.5 8,9 caster 7.6 8,9
.13 .11,.19 toe .13 .11,.19
19.9 SAI?? 14.4
17.2 included angle 12.3
front range
cross camber -.6 -.5,.5
cross caster .9 -.5,.5
cross SAI 5.5
total toe .26 .22,.38


right rear left
-2.4 -2.5,-1.5 camber -1.6 -2.5,-1.5
.00 -.07,.43 toe .30 -.07,.43


rear actual range
cross camber -.8 -.5,.5
total toe .30 .25,.48
thrust angle -.15 -.25,.25

[Brew]

First thing you need to realize is that the specs are for an e30 with stock suspension. A by-product of lowering our cars, or any car with a macpherson strut-type suspension is that the camber is increased. Taking that into account, you still want to have even camber and caster from side-to-side.

[Dave]

I just ordered the IE ones from the Flying Brick guy. he's not sold out.

[modifiede30]

We have access to 2 different types of camber plates for a stock spring setup. One is a basic system for making camber adjustments using the existing strut bearing. The other is a bit more elaborate and uses urethane bushings in place of the stock ones, but offers the same adjustability. Either of these will straighten out the camber but the urethane ones are closer to $250 whereas the others are pretty cheap. I'd still say go with the basic version.

Dave, you bought the racing setup and I don't think he can use that one given his existing setup.

[Mr.SWISS]

So mod e30 you think if I put tthe standard adjustable plates on I'll be good. What about my casterr being almost a full degree different from right front to left front? And the rear specs are cool? Seems like I need at least 1/2 a degree for the front camber to just be in spec.