★★★★ Digital Wideband AFR gauge - custom part ★★★★

[diegom6]

OK, we are 6 days ahead...any news

[george graves]

Everyone will have a email by tomorrow night. ^I think you already got yours.

[diegom6]

Everyone will have a email by tomorrow night. ^I think you already got yours.

Until this post, no, I didn't get any email not in the spam. I sent you email the day it was paid with paypal info as paid (someone else paid this for me from his account).

Hopefully tomorrow I will have a happy email

[digger]

can anyone post the install instructions? i want to see whats involved with installation on a non LC-2 system before commiting

[thmpr464]

Digger, All wideband installation will vary based on the vehicle ECU O2 pin input designation, ground used, and gauge connection.

For example, for the LC-2: red wire to switch-on, black to sensor ground/chasis ground, yellow to ECU 02 input. Brown will not be used as narrowband simulation will be used.

[george graves]

narrowband simulation will be used.

I've never been a fan of narrow band simulation - if not done right it will throw check engine light(Innovate LC-2 has a clever fix for that for warm up). IMHO if you're keeping a stock ECU, and of course it needs a narrowband signal, you should add a bung, and run both a narowband sensor and a wideband side by side. This is what I run, and it works perfectly. But I can see your point - it's just my opinion.

can anyone post the install instructions? i want to see whats involved with installation on a non LC-2 system before commiting

Not sure what you mean by "non LC-2" system. A system without a wideband? Any "wideband system" will need both a wideband sensor and it's controller. Today, the controllers are so small they are built into the cable. But to answer your question, you can't get a wideband signal out of a narrow band sensor - no can do. You have to have a wideband sensor. And anytime you have a wideband sensor, you need a controller that matches it. (for reasons that are kinda complicated)

As far as install - it's less work then a new headunit. If you are a bit new to car electronics, don't be. The unit I sell has 5 wires, one is optional(dimming at night). Two are power and ground (as expected). Third one is a separate ground that should be tied into the same ground used by your wide band(that is technically optional, but it gives a cleaner signal), 4th wire is the output from your wideband(as expected). The 5th is a input to tell the unit weather you have your headlight on or not (Tap into the wire that goes to the ash tray to light it up at night).

That's as simple as it can get for a gauge like this. The instructions are 3 pages long, covering everything you could want to know and more. It's a quick read with lots of pictures and text to explain it all (I'm kinda known for my awesome instructions) - most people won't need it, but I include it anyways.




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[george graves]

someone else paid this for me from his account

Ahhhh! Well that explains that mystery! Doh! PM sent to clarify.

[diegom6]

Ahhhh! Well that explains that mystery! Doh! PM sent to clarify.

Replied the PM let me know if you need somethign else.

[thmpr464]

I am assuming our order shipped because I received an email yesterday stating it is ready to ship. Please advise.

[digger]

I've never been a fan of narrow band simulation - if not done right it will throw check engine light(Innovate LC-2 has a clever fix for that for warm up). IMHO if you're keeping a stock ECU, and of course it needs a narrowband signal, you should add a bung, and run both a narowband sensor and a wideband side by side. This is what I run, and it works perfectly. But I can see your point - it's just my opinion.




Not sure what you mean by "non LC-2" system. A system without a wideband? Any "wideband system" will need both a wideband sensor and it's controller. Today, the controllers are so small they are built into the cable. But to answer your question, you can't get a wideband signal out of a narrow band sensor - no can do. You have to have a wideband sensor. And anytime you have a wideband sensor, you need a controller that matches it. (for reasons that are kinda complicated)

As far as install - it's less work then a new headunit. If you are a bit new to car electronics, don't be. The unit I sell has 5 wires, one is optional(dimming at night). Two are power and ground (as expected). Third one is a separate ground that should be tied into the same ground used by your wide band(that is technically optional, but it gives a cleaner signal), 4th wire is the output from your wideband(as expected). The 5th is a input to tell the unit weather you have your headlight on or not (Tap into the wire that goes to the ash tray to light it up at night).

That's as simple as it can get for a gauge like this. The instructions are 3 pages long, covering everything you could want to know and more. It's a quick read with lots of pictures and text to explain it all (I'm kinda known for my awesome instructions) - most people won't need it, but I include it anyways.




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a non LC-2 system is any other wideband and sensor combo. i use AFR500 and NGK/NTK sensor 0V is 9:1 AFR and 5V is 16:1 AFR i presume there is a calibration thats adjustable based on the voltage?

[thmpr464]

Thanks George! Can't wait to install it. Early Christmas for me!

[DaveG]

I'm looking to order one. What is shipping price to Ireland Please.
Thanks
Dave

[george graves]

Sorry - I'm not taking orders right now - sign up here to be notified. Shipping overseas are at cost. Shipping to anywhere in the US is free. PM for for oversea rate.

[DaveG]

Thanks

[MacBudd541]

Put me on the list for the next batch please!