sold

[george graves]

milling that peice from AL would be expensive, end of story. milling it from anything would be expensive, or he could mill it from delrin. you wouldnt want it AL/ annodized you would still be able to see every move the tool made and as cool as that is, it would get annoying.

Or what if I CNC'ed it my self? But out of plastic. Then use a vinyl paint to finish it. I think that might work, if not molding it would be best.

I doubt I would ever sell 1000 - or even 100.

[MC Hammered]

The finish of a CNC piece would never compare to a injection molded piece and the cost would be much more per unit.

[george graves]

Real:


Repo:

[MC Hammered]

I'll eat crow for my comment as I did not expect the CNC piece to be sanded and polished to that level then anodized. My comment was to the CNC piece that comes out of the machine. While the finish is smooth the cutting marks are easily visible.

But what is the cost per unit to cut?

Once again I am wondering what the market size is for such a vent gauge solution?

[lylefk]

That repo one doesn't look good at all IMO

[Jesse30]

That repo one doesn't look good at all IMO

still super gangster though. i think it looks fine.

[ZM Blue Devil]

George Have you seen the e28 version? Perhaps that would be easier to replicate? All be it, it wont be a e30 version. But note how the vents are below and top. If one were to duplicate it would be easier... I think.

[kronus]

GG, I'm going to get some samples of the resin from the engineering department and see how heat-resilient it is. What would you think is a reasonable upper temperature that the vents see while chilling in the car?

The resin is overall very durable, a friend of mine is making most of his project with 3D-printed parts, and they feel very solid.

[CorvallisBMW]

GG, I'm going to get some samples of the resin from the engineering department and see how heat-resilient it is. What would you think is a reasonable upper temperature that the vents see while chilling in the car?

The resin is overall very durable, a friend of mine is making most of his project with 3D-printed parts, and they feel very solid.

I'm guessing 150F is as high as the interior of the car will get. But the black plastic of the dash could get higher if left in the sun, maybe 175-200F-ish?

Machining would be very, very difficult, especially with respect to surface finish. Your best bet would be to create a female mold using a stock, modified e30 vent. Make the vent/pod thing just how you want it, then use it as a male for making a female mold. It wouldn't have to be anything fancy, even plaster of paris would work as a mold material. You could then manufacture many parts quickly using a simple 2-part epoxy resin that would cure hard. I know for a fact that Hysol makes such a resin, and it even comes in black. I used it at an old job of mine, I'll see if I can track down a PN.

Really, I think that's the easiest way. You would no doubt have to do some slight modification after the casting process doue to part gemoetry and such, but overall the process is simple and doesn't require commercial runs of thousands of units.

[MC Hammered]

With production injection molded parts the cost is spread over the number units made.

The plant that I deal with can do runs of 250 units but the cost per unit goes up.

[asuj158]

thats alot of money

[Replicam3cabrio]

I am down for a set, paying the going price its not the problem, the problem is that this items are often sold as is and not knowing if they are fully functinal.

[BrewCity11]

I'm guessing 150F is as high as the interior of the car will get. But the black plastic of the dash could get higher if left in the sun, maybe 175-200F-ish?

Machining would be very, very difficult, especially with respect to surface finish. Your best bet would be to create a female mold using a stock, modified e30 vent. Make the vent/pod thing just how you want it, then use it as a male for making a female mold. It wouldn't have to be anything fancy, even plaster of paris would work as a mold material. You could then manufacture many parts quickly using a simple 2-part epoxy resin that would cure hard. I know for a fact that Hysol makes such a resin, and it even comes in black. I used it at an old job of mine, I'll see if I can track down a PN.

Really, I think that's the easiest way. You would no doubt have to do some slight modification after the casting process doue to part gemoetry and such, but overall the process is simple and doesn't require commercial runs of thousands of units.

I agree with that, although i'd want it to look much better that that repro posted.

I'm pretty sure, if i spent enough time, i could come up with a pretty accurate replica. But, the original looks a little different. It looks like the red lens is a rectangle shape, clipped into the vent.

Even that though would be fine, too. I've seen pics of those molds someone made for those button gauges gg was making (or was that himself?) Then get the writing silkscreened on the face. And gg take care of the electronics and we're set.

I think the biggest task would be matching the finish of the plastic.

[george graves]

Well, you guys can discuss this all you want - but for me, I don't want to give away anymore than I have. So, I'm going to shut up now.

Except to say, there is a third option I haven't mentioned. One that will be much more functional, much more modern looking, and much more useful. Oh and much more expandable.

[kronus]

Well, you guys can discuss this all you want - but for me, I don't want to give away anymore than I have. So, I'm going to shut up now.

Except to say, there is a third option I haven't mentioned. One that will be much more functional, much more modern looking, and much more useful. Oh and much more expandable.

The check panel.

I've also toyed with the idea of replacing the OBC completely with an LCD screen.