WTB: Fully Operational Cluster

[dishwab]

So I've been trying to hunt down the source of my non-working tachometer and after replacing the SI board and testing the signal coming from the ECU, I think it's down to broken solders on the cluster.

So, I'm looking for a working cluster. Mileage doesn't matter as I'm going to swap my odometer over. Otherwise though, speedo, tach, econometer, fuel, etc. etc. most be operational.

Let me know! Thanks

[20gmr]

I have a few pm me for pricing

[beta14ok]

It could be a whole bunch of other things, but I'd bet that you may find 1 or 2 small defects on the SI board that line-up perfectly with the two lower middle screws that hold the instrument cluster frame in place.

If you have those 2 defects, then you will probably also find that one or more of the contact paths have been severed on the printed circuit of the SI board that allow the tach, econo gauge, possibly other stuff to operate properly. The extent of the "misbehavior" is a function of how much over-torqued those screws have experienced in the 21+ years of life and how far they have pushed onto the SI board severing one or more circuit paths. It's and easy, but somewhat tedious fix with a good fine-point soldering iron and some bit of insulated 22-gauge wire...(clean, static free, grounded, heat sink conditions need to be observed).


Gregs///M can probably put it right if you don't wanna mess with it.

Or you could source a complete replacement as you suggest.

[dishwab]

It could be a whole bunch of other things, but I'd bet that you may find 1 or 2 small defects on the SI board that line-up perfectly with the two lower middle screws that hold the instrument cluster frame in place.

If you have those 2 defects, then you will probably also find that one or more of the contact paths have been severed on the printed circuit of the SI board that allow the tach, econo gauge, possibly other stuff to operate properly. The extent of the "misbehavior" is a function of how much over-torqued those screws have experienced in the 21+ years of life and how far they have pushed onto the SI board severing one or more circuit paths. It's and easy, but somewhat tedious fix with a good fine-point soldering iron and some bit of insulated 22-gauge wire...(clean, static free, grounded, heat sink conditions need to be observed).


Gregs///M can probably put it right if you don't wanna mess with it.

Or you could source a complete replacement as you suggest.

Thanks beta, I appreciate the input.

I actually bought the replacement board from Greg and have been trouble shooting with his help. I've tried two certified to work SI boards from him thus far, and we decided that the easiest next step for me (as a not particularly electronically inclined individual) would be to try a new cluster

[dishwab]

I have a few pm me for pricing

PM'd