WTB: Racing dynamic or mtech 2 style rear apron
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So that looks just like the MTech rep from Eurostop. Did it fit niecly, or was fiberglass work involved before paint? Prep I expect, but actual reforming is my question. Did you do it yourself, or pay a pro?
Looks terrific, BTW.
I am going to be doing one on an early coupe, so I am sure I get to mod the arches, or where the valence meets the body, or some shit.
LukeComment
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Levent
%20levent@gutenparts.com
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Ladies:
1998 E36 m3/4/5 1988 325i 1989 325iTComment
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yup, thats the zender.sigpic
New website releasing soon www.gutenparts.com Guten Parts + Service | Facebook | Twitter
____________________________________
Levent
%20levent@gutenparts.com
____________________________________
Ladies:
1998 E36 m3/4/5 1988 325i 1989 325iTComment
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Thanks for the offer levent, but I think the rd or mtech 2 would suite better for the plastic rear. I sort of like how it extends lower and give the rear a little more curves.
Just got the car home, I'll get some pics up in a little. ;)
Having problem with the fuel gauge, going to do quick search and see if I can fixt that! :up:Comment
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So that looks just like the MTech rep from Eurostop. Did it fit niecly, or was fiberglass work involved before paint? Prep I expect, but actual reforming is my question. Did you do it yourself, or pay a pro?
Looks terrific, BTW.
I am going to be doing one on an early coupe, so I am sure I get to mod the arches, or where the valence meets the body, or some shit.
Luke
Sorry I haven't checked this thread until today. You should have PM'd me! Thanks for the kind works, I did prep, paint and install it myself. With your experience building your woofer boxes, this will be a no brainer.
I chose eurostyle due to some of the feedback from others on this forum. I believe your buddy Jordan S. thought highly of Filip's work. If he liked it, then it must be ok.
Yes, you will need to do some prep work: apron will need some plastic putty and sanding. The bumper cover will need to have the bottom edge shaved to make a seamless fit to the apron.
I wouldn't call it "reforming" but "adjusting" to make sure everything lines up correctly. This did require some adjusting/stretching but this apron is flexible to accept a bend to match your bumper cover.
Prep, paint and then let cure for at least a week to prevent any damage to the fresh paint while you are messing about fitting the two together.
I started by making sure the apron and bumper cover was even at the wheel area. I then clamped and drilled holes(there is a dremel attachment that will work in this tight area) and used self-tapping screws for the sides and worked my way back and used a bolt/washer/nut combination for the back section. When finished, attach the bumper cover/apron to the fiberglass bumper using those plastic grommets.
I also fashioned a strut to secure the bottom edge of the apron by the wheel well to the body. I didn't want my apron flapping about at speed like some ricer's bodykit. I will attach a photo. I simply used round aluminum stock from HD or Lowes. I bent the aluminum bar and used a torch to heat up the ends. While still hot(use gloves) pound the ends flat. This is to create a flat area to drill through and attach to the apron(see where on the apron lip) and body. I used self-tapping screws to the body and a bolt/washer/rubber washer/bolt to the apron.
I hope this helps.
Doug
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