collision repair and auto painting

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  • bmwstephen
    R3VLimited
    • May 2009
    • 2463

    #301
    Oliver,

    do you have any recommendations for over-the counter undercoat paint that can be sprayed or preferably roller-ed on? There's some areas on the pinch-welds/jack points on the car where metal is exposed and the factory undercoating is peeling away

    Comment

    • oliver.r
      No R3VLimiter
      • Mar 2012
      • 3839

      #302
      Originally posted by bmwstephen
      Oliver,

      do you have any recommendations for over-the counter undercoat paint that can be sprayed or preferably roller-ed on? There's some areas on the pinch-welds/jack points on the car where metal is exposed and the factory undercoating is peeling away
      best stuff i have used is no longer on sale in CA because of VOC regulations but SEM makes really good rubberized undercoating.
      you will most likley have to order it online.
      duplicolor stuff you find at pep boys and such is terrible

      Comment

      • bmwstephen
        R3VLimited
        • May 2009
        • 2463

        #303
        Originally posted by oliver.r
        best stuff i have used is no longer on sale in CA because of VOC regulations but SEM makes really good rubberized undercoating.
        you will most likley have to order it online.
        duplicolor stuff you find at pep boys and such is terrible
        do you happen to know the product name or do u use something different when doing this at the shop?

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        • oliver.r
          No R3VLimiter
          • Mar 2012
          • 3839

          #304

          thats the good stuff

          Comment

          • nmlss2006
            E30 Modder
            • Aug 2006
            • 910

            #305
            I'm not Oliver but... the original stuff is from Wurth, the original formulation is NLA because of VOC concerns. The present formulation is available both in aerosol (to be avoided) and, closer to the original, in a can to be shot with a Schultz gun. You can get a cheap version at HF for $6.99, btw.

            Comment

            • bmwstephen
              R3VLimited
              • May 2009
              • 2463

              #306
              Originally posted by nmlss2006
              I'm not Oliver but... the original stuff is from Wurth, the original formulation is NLA because of VOC concerns. The present formulation is available both in aerosol (to be avoided) and, closer to the original, in a can to be shot with a Schultz gun. You can get a cheap version at HF for $6.99, btw.
              why avoid the aerosol version?

              Comment

              • nmlss2006
                E30 Modder
                • Aug 2006
                • 910

                #307
                Well: it doesn't lay the same way (the HF gun is also... less than ideal, but better) and apparently the formulation is even lower in VOC -> worse results. If you google you'll find various Pelican parts / Porsche forum posts discussing the various alternatives. I can say I've seen the Schultz gun version and it looks like the factory finish (because it is, essentially).

                Comment

                • bmwstephen
                  R3VLimited
                  • May 2009
                  • 2463

                  #308
                  Anything u can possibly roller or brush on? The exposed spot is on my car's under carriage

                  Sent from the heavens

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                  • oliver.r
                    No R3VLimiter
                    • Mar 2012
                    • 3839

                    #309
                    you might have to import something from out of the US.you cant buy anything with high VOC in CA, stuff even tho stuff with high VOC is by far the best it is terrible for your health.
                    if you want to do a roll on i would just do truck bedliner

                    Comment

                    • bmwstephen
                      R3VLimited
                      • May 2009
                      • 2463

                      #310
                      Oliver, with waterborne being a totally different beast in nature. Is there a time limit for a painter to paint the clear coat over it? I know with traditional solvent, the flash time is 15 mins after it drys to ensure adhesion.

                      My understanding is that waterborne dry's flat and sating but can become soluble again once you run water through it so where do you draw the line?.
                      Last edited by bmwstephen; 12-13-2012, 09:01 AM.

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                      • bmwstephen
                        R3VLimited
                        • May 2009
                        • 2463

                        #311
                        beep

                        Comment

                        • oliver.r
                          No R3VLimiter
                          • Mar 2012
                          • 3839

                          #312
                          Originally posted by bmwstephen
                          Oliver, with waterborne being a totally different beast in nature. Is there a time limit for a painter to paint the clear coat over it? I know with traditional solvent, the flash time is 15 mins after it drys to ensure adhesion.

                          My understanding is that waterborne dry's flat and sating but can become soluble again once you run water through it so where do you draw the line?.
                          there is no time limit to put clear on it. the biggest reason to put clear on it is to keep contamination from getting on the surface.
                          waterborne and solvent based paint dry flat. and just like when you put thinner on solvent paint the same thing happens with waterborne and water

                          Comment

                          • bmwstephen
                            R3VLimited
                            • May 2009
                            • 2463

                            #313
                            Originally posted by oliver.r
                            there is no time limit to put clear on it. the biggest reason to put clear on it is to keep contamination from getting on the surface.
                            waterborne and solvent based paint dry flat. and just like when you put thinner on solvent paint the same thing happens with waterborne and water
                            so you can basically wait a few months and still apply clear with no issues? I know some painters like to sand their bases prior to clear.

                            Comment

                            • oliver.r
                              No R3VLimiter
                              • Mar 2012
                              • 3839

                              #314
                              the only reason you would sand the base is if it had contamination THATS IT, more paint need to be applied afterwards or you will see scratches on the paint.

                              you could wait months if you wanted but why?

                              Comment

                              • bmwstephen
                                R3VLimited
                                • May 2009
                                • 2463

                                #315
                                Originally posted by oliver.r
                                the only reason you would sand the base is if it had contamination THATS IT, more paint need to be applied afterwards or you will see scratches on the paint.

                                you could wait months if you wanted but why?
                                very true. I was curious what sort of options painters have to correct mistakes. Say for example an area of overbite on the body was looked over. It would be more feasible for a painter to touch up that area than to completely do a respray

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