GA: 740 BBS 16x8 **4x100**

[kylebes1]

Note that 3 mm is to the edge of the sloped area where to bolt head will rest. That leaves at least another 3 mm to the actual hole.

The guy doing the work has done these before. I was assured that if the specs are closer than is safe we will scrap the project all together.

[Motorsports]

Am not too sure but most BMW wheels have a gap in between each hole. If that is the case with these wheels. I highly doubt that it is possible. I hope that it can be done because these are one of my favorite wheels on a e30.

[DCColegrove]

Not to hammer your thread...

But this really wouldn't be okay

[einstein57]

I just picked up a set of style 5's today for almost nothing. CL FTW!!! I'm taking them to a wheel specialist to see about welding up the center to make it hubcentric and then machining them. I'll see if they can get us a group rate too for us so cal members. And the backs of the wheels are flat. The same company offers a 19mm adapter which would basically make them et 4. If they can't do the fill and drill i'm going to see if they can mill 6mm off the backs of the wheels. I hate poke.

[Holland]

Like the wheels, I have a set sitting on an E38 parked next to my E30 in my driveway, lol

[themitchster359]

i dunno.

[E30-M3]

Sketch...

[george graves]

But this really wouldn't be okay

why?

[Fidhle007]

If it's safe and functional I'd probably be in if they'd clear my brakes.

[atle36m3]

I called today and they place that normally does wheel repair for our shop can do a redrill on the 740 16x8 wheels that I have. I have a couple sets if I send them like 12 wheels it would be a little cheaper...

Would you pay $700.00 for great condition 16x8s that are direct fitment?






There are several cars on here that have five lug conversion and these wheels... I think they are BALLIN and period correct.

Kyle

interested to see how this turns out. im local (downtown atl). i would love to see these in person if you end up doing it....

[Lurker27]

Don't you need to heat treat aluminum after you weld it to maintain good strength/hardness? (that's the T-651 or T-xx rating after the alloy)

[kylebes1]

Guys, I am not, and I don't know that any of you are, a metallurgist. The discussions about strength and what not are unfounded on both sides of the coin. I am not willing to say that anyone is right or wrong.

My intuition, however, says that the wheels will remain strong. The hub face of the wheel and the center bore share the load applied to the wheel and car.

These wheels will NOT be made if the machinist deems the project unsafe.

Furthermore, I am not afraid of my shadow and in the spirit of entrepreneurship I will personally test these wheels to the limit that Z rated tires can apply!! Maybe even r compounds if someone wants to contribute a decent set. That should provide sufficient lateral load testing, and I will aim for every pothole I can find. If I am able to damage a wheel in a manor related to the "redrill" these wheels will not be sold.

For a second point, these wheels are usually on a much heavier car and I have never seen one with even the slightest bend. Now it is true they usually have a tall sidewall tire, but none the less the loads from a five passenger 740iL seem to be a good enough indicator of construction.

Alterations in strength could result from heat changes, but that is yet to be seen.

This thread is intended to gauge response toward the purchase of the end product after the application is tested.

I see that there are at least three on R3v and a couple more on e30tech whose balls are not captive and are willing to make a purchase.

I hope to have an answer from the machinist today, and if all goes well I will have at least 4 sets ready for sale within the month.

Last thing concerns price. After further deliberation, barring ill news from the machinist, the price may be lower, or at least include free shipping. The more wheels I can do the less the overall cost is.

I am excited to see the outcome either way.

The long and short is even if the larger hub bore is an issue there are plenty of alternatives so this project will live in one form or another.

[einstein57]

Don't you need to heat treat aluminum after you weld it to maintain good strength/hardness? (that's the T-651 or T-xx rating after the alloy)

From what i've read (beeing that i've only been in manufactuirng engineering for a week) is heat treating is to increase ductility which actually reduces hardness. You can't get have booth. I have a graph of the tradeoff in aluminum that i can scan if you guys are interested.

[kylebes1]

From what i've read (beeing that i've only been in manufactuirng engineering for a week) is heat treating is to increase ductility which actually reduces hardness. You can't get have booth. I have a graph of the tradeoff in aluminum that i can scan if you guys are interested.

thank you! Post it

[bimma360]

This is the same point i made over on e30tech. And then i saw AC Nico's FS thread for the Borbet B's.... scrolled down to the last picture and thought hmmmm interesting.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=130176

Anyone else see what i see.... thoughts?

Dave