German Engineering Suspension GB

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  • Luis325
    replied
    Would these work on e30 front M3 struts????

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  • wakdog
    replied
    Originally posted by thebutcher37
    Ed, please let me know more about this.. I would like to go back to the way I.E. mentioned to put the spacers, just in case running 3 on bottom is bad, i would like to know more about this spray,
    I was getting popping noises at times, used some generic silicon lubricant spray around the underside of the plates with them on the car, got rid of the noise and it hasnt come back in the last 3 weeks...

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  • thebutcher37
    replied
    Originally posted by tinkerputzer
    Run the amount of spacers you needed to get the popping to stop. Currently i run 3 on the bottom.
    Originally posted by PNWDan
    Jack up the car and jack stand it.
    Remove wheel.
    Place jack under suspension and jack up suspension.
    Leave the plate attached to the strut tower.
    Unbolt sway bar and top nut on strut insert, lower jack.

    the tube, spring, strut, and top hat will drop.

    reach up and slip extra washers over strut shaft.

    reverse assembly...

    BTW, how did you strip the strut shaft? The nut should be softer than the hardened shaft.
    Just wanted to let everyone know that since today I am running 3 spacer at the bottom and I currently have no popping or binding..


    Originally posted by IRON-E
    Easy fix on the binding., I get it from time to time. I use silicone spray on the sleeves and the camber plates.
    This happens with all the coilover brands, it's not just the GEs.
    Ed, please let me know more about this.. I would like to go back to the way I.E. mentioned to put the spacers, just in case running 3 on bottom is bad, i would like to know more about this spray,

    Leave a comment:


  • supkev
    replied
    I want soem 4 inch springs in the front I still got a 2 finger gap in the front with my trm c1's

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  • PNWDan
    replied
    Originally posted by einstein57
    I was considering getting some cheap laptop with an i3 processor and just RAM the hell out of it. I'll toss in a i5 chip in a few years when then can be had for pennies on the dollar. The PCs we use at school are dinosaurs but they keep upping the ram and video cards to keep up with the newer versions.
    Yeah you'll need to find one that has a decent separate video card. Most laptops use something integrated into the motherboard. Find a decent used gaming one.

    Leave a comment:


  • einstein57
    replied
    I was considering getting some cheap laptop with an i3 processor and just RAM the hell out of it. I'll toss in a i5 chip in a few years when then can be had for pennies on the dollar. The PCs we use at school are dinosaurs but they keep upping the ram and video cards to keep up with the newer versions.

    Leave a comment:


  • PNWDan
    replied
    Originally posted by einstein57
    The Koni is supposed to be OK to run with the camber plates according to IE. That just how they fit. I'm going to get a laptop soon that will finally run my solid works 64 so i can complete some of my designs.
    That'll be a nice laptop huh.. solidworks is a memory whore

    Leave a comment:


  • einstein57
    replied
    The Koni is supposed to be OK to run with the camber plates according to IE. That just how they fit. I'm going to get a laptop soon that will finally run my solid works 64 so i can complete some of my designs.

    Leave a comment:


  • ADCD875
    replied
    Originally posted by noE30
    Nigel can get them for you.
    Nigel,
    Can you get me a set of Bilstein dust boots? I'd hate to leave those shocks exposed to nasty Ohio winter roads.

    Let me know what they cost.

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • StreetMafia21
    replied
    im in for the next set once they are ready

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  • einstein57
    replied
    I'll ask Ireland tomorrow what they suggest for koni inserts.

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  • PNWDan
    replied
    Originally posted by dave.a.cote
    That was the same solution that I thought of. I will probably machine one from aluminum tomorrow.
    Because it will be sandwiched between the strut and the plate, I would make it aluminum but with a steel bushing in the through hole.

    Leave a comment:


  • dave.a.cote
    replied
    Originally posted by PNWDan
    Yes



    The only thing I can think of right off the top of my head is making some sort of cup to go over the Koni's smaller shaft with a through hole for the threaded end to pass through and effectively increase the diameter of the shaft to keep the hat located on center.
    That was the same solution that I thought of. I will probably machine one from aluminum tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:


  • IRON-E
    replied
    Easy fix on the binding., I get it from time to time. I use silicone spray on the sleeves and the camber plates.
    This happens with all the coilover brands, it's not just the GEs.

    Leave a comment:


  • PNWDan
    replied
    Originally posted by dave.a.cote
    PNWDan, your explanation seems to make the most sense of any that I have read. Basically you are saying the best you can do is put the spring forces through the thrust bearings and the strut forces have to go through the spherical bearing unless the system is redesigned, right?
    Yes

    On my car, I am running Koni SA's and I am trying to install these coil overs with the IE race plates. The ID of the thrust bearing and the upper spring hat that is significantly larger than the OD of the strut shaft on my setup. I shouldn't have the problem of the top hat not seating square on the backing plate but I am worried about the thrust bearing shifting out of place when the suspension is unloaded. Do you have any recommendation on how I can stop that?
    The only thing I can think of right off the top of my head is making some sort of cup to go over the Koni's smaller shaft with a through hole for the threaded end to pass through and effectively increase the diameter of the shaft to keep the hat located on center.

    Leave a comment:

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