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    Ah... thanks. All the chimes work for me (key/door/36'F), I just never knew where it came from.

    Well, for anyone else with this piece still in place, be careful when attaching your remote receiver on the ABS computer. This piece will get in the way.
    1988 325ix

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      Thanks for the pics of the '88 ix wiring. I just ordered one of these, and will confirm whether or not this was unique to your car. My guess is this wiring will be found on any E30 with the premium audio, which was standard on the '88 ix.
      '88 iX Money Pit/Labor of Love

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        Glad it worked out for you! I guess wiring might differ a bit...mine is a 87 IS if anyone is wondering.

        Also i attatched it to the abs computer but all the way to the left near the kick panel area, away from the door chime.
        -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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          Sorry for the delay on a installation video or picture writeup. I've had several locals swear they would post detailed writeups but have not come through yet. I did not want to use my e28 and my e30 has everything tucked away as I installed mine with the dash removed.


          Originally posted by sergio318is View Post
          does this sound the alarm if door open while car is in lock like with stock BMW alarm remote ??


          Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk
          There is no alarm feature for the unit.
          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

          www.gecoils.com
          My euro 316 project Transaction Feedback

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            Originally posted by wh00sh View Post
            Thanks for the pics of the '88 ix wiring. I just ordered one of these, and will confirm whether or not this was unique to your car. My guess is this wiring will be found on any E30 with the premium audio, which was standard on the '88 ix.
            Just beware as you get in there, the Y/B and G/B wires are in a really tight spot down there. I was planning on using heat shrink butt connectors as FLG suggested, but once I found the right wires, there just was no room to fit the connectors. I could barely get a tool in there to splice it... an extremely tight fit.

            Anyone have better luck re-attaching the huge clip on the steering column? For me there is too much resistance trying to push it up to get the clip back in the metal slots. How did you do it?
            1988 325ix

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              A lot of patience. Also might help if you remove one of the blocks off of it...hard to explain but the block of connectors separates further into smaller blocks if I remember it was easier to remove the next largest block , clip the first one back on the column than put that one back on.

              Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
              -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                The instructions that come with it are more specific on where I'm looking, what to take apart, etc?
                REMEMBER: Be safe and have fun is Rule Number 1.

                The Epic Unbuild of Clint Eastwood

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                  Originally posted by MaxBell View Post
                  Are the instructions that come with it more specific on where I'm supposed to look, what to take apart, etc?
                  No, not really, but to be honest, FLG's guide on page 6 is more than adequate to do it right. The only tricky part for me was actually finding the lock/unlock wires. As shown in my pictures on page 9, my wires were buried deep down, almost below my left front speaker.

                  If you take off the panel under your steering wheel, and then remove the driver's side kick panel (exposing your speaker), you'll see the bundle of 4 held on by the black plastic clip (as described by FLG.) If your wires are not in that bundle of 4, look right below them, and you'll probably see another bundle running perpendicular to those 4. That's where mine were.
                  1988 325ix

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                    A quick note on tools: FLG mentioned that he used butt connectors and heat shrink tape. Before doing this, I would recommend looking up the wire gauges in a bentley manual, and buying splicers for those gauges.

                    All in all I picked up the following from Home Depot before starting:

                    Wire cutter/stripper/crimper tool.
                    Butt connectors in 3 sizes (I didn't measure gauges).
                    Electrical tape.
                    Grounding ends.
                    Small zip ties.
                    Butane torch (for the heat shrink connectors.)

                    If I were going to do it all again I would pick up a few "quick splices" at Home Depot as well. In fact, I may go back in on mine and re-do some of my splices.

                    I hope this helps.
                    1988 325ix

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                      Originally posted by Isostar13 View Post
                      Just beware as you get in there, the Y/B and G/B wires are in a really tight spot down there. I was planning on using heat shrink butt connectors as FLG suggested, but once I found the right wires, there just was no room to fit the connectors. I could barely get a tool in there to splice it... an extremely tight fit.

                      Anyone have better luck re-attaching the huge clip on the steering column? For me there is too much resistance trying to push it up to get the clip back in the metal slots. How did you do it?

                      can't you use T taps instead? would that make it easier?
                      Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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                      89 E30 S52
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                      Transaction Feedback.

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                        Originally posted by bernzpeed View Post
                        can't you use T taps instead? would that make it easier?
                        bingo;)
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                        1998 E36 m3/4/5 1988 325i 1989 325iT

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                          Originally posted by bernzpeed View Post
                          can't you use T taps instead? would that make it easier?
                          After reading your comment, I googled "t-taps how to". Wow, I wish I had heard of these before yesterday.

                          Yes, that would have made things a LOT easier getting into the lock/unlock wires.
                          1988 325ix

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                            Originally posted by bernzpeed View Post
                            can't you use T taps instead? would that make it easier?
                            That's whay I use. I'll be picking up a huge bag of them this weekend to include with the kits.
                            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                            www.gecoils.com
                            My euro 316 project Transaction Feedback

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                              T-taps are nice would make things easier...it was tight but I had enough of wire slack to use, just had the butt connectors and heat shrink handy.

                              Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
                              -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                                I highly recommend that you try to buy the 3M brand of t-taps.
                                Originally posted by Matt-B
                                hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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