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Putting this here, cause you guys know stuff about things (suspension, 24v swap)

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    Putting this here, cause you guys know stuff about things (suspension, 24v swap)

    What is the trick to this? Trying to install new OEM sway bar bushings. This is as close as I can get to having the tabs line up. I tried using a jack and it jacked the car up before it compressed the bushing. I tried using C-clamps, however those just slip off before the tabs align. I am at a loss at the moment.

    Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

    (1987 325e, M50 swap, Control arms are not installed)


    #2
    Is your sway bar hitting your exhaust? And why the hell do you have stock sway bars on a swap car??
    '89 325is S50 Track Montser
    '04 X5 Daily/Tow Vehicle

    http://www.avarestoration.com

    http://www.myspace.com/brendanfiddle


    Click here if you want to be my zombie slave...

    http://www.youtube.com/user/Fidhle007

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      #3
      try detaching the ends of the sways from the CA so that they can twist. This may relieve some of the pressure and allow you to close the distance between the tabs enough to get the fastener in there. Also don't have the other side tightened all the way down. Just get it started and the start the other side and THEN tighten them both down.
      sigpic

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        #4
        As mentioned before... the control arms are not installed. The sway bar is hanging freely.

        The exhaust does not touch the sway bar. I have since taken the bar completely off as I was attempting to replace each bushing one at a time. So I can attempt to put one side on and then leave it loose while putting the other side on.

        I just wish these brackets had two bolts, not some tab/slot system that had to be compressed. The god damn thing just slips out before the tabs align and I can get a bolt through them. /sigh So frustrating. This entire car has been a dream to work on... up until this.

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          #5
          keep playing with it, a little praying might help, some brake slider lubricant would make it easier, disconnecting the endlinks should make this really really easy however I didn't have to do that.

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            #6
            Use a longer and thinner bolt with larger diameter washer and nut on the other end. Start cinching it up until you think you'll be able to put the regular bolt through. Hold the bracket down (with C-clamp or adjustable wrench) remove long skinny, replace with stock and tighten the rest of the way down. Walah!

            Same principle applies here on the rear 2002 trailing arm bushing bracket.



            and if all fails, here's your 2 bolt system.....
            ADAMS Autosport

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