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    please HELP!!!

    So, as some of you know my wiring harness got fried, I picked up a new wiring harness, installed it and still no luck, no fuel or spark. I also changed the crank positioning sensor and swapped out the dme (not sure if the new one i used even works..)

    Whenever I turn my key the relays do not click, but i tested the relays individually and they all checked out to be ok.

    Also bypassed the main fuel pump relay which ended up turning on the fuel pump, so i don't know where to go from there..

    it seems like the relays aren't getting a signal to turn on, i just don't know where to go from there!!!

    My check engine light and diagnostic feature does not work either! I know the check engine light comes on because we forced power through the wiring and it turned on, but for some reason it doesn't even turn on when I turn the key over. I also am not getting power on my diagnostics plug when i try to plug in the code reader, but this also works by sending manual power through it (it still wont read codes for some reason).

    I know this is a long post but any advice would help, i'm trying to get my car running back up in time for a track day! thanks!

    -Abe.

    s52 0-150mph & more http://www.youtube.com/loonibab325i

    #2
    Did you double check your grounds?

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      #3
      pretty sure all grounds are good, can you specify which grounds to check though?

      s52 0-150mph & more http://www.youtube.com/loonibab325i

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        #4
        engine to frame (located by exhaust mani) and i think the fuel rail has one too.

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          #5
          grounds on each side of the motor usually from the passenger motor arm to the frame and from the oil pan to the frame.
          Have you checked your ignition switch??

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            #6
            i'm fairly sure i do not have an oil pan ground, the only big ground i have is the one that's connected to my motor arm to the frame.

            s52 0-150mph & more http://www.youtube.com/loonibab325i

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              #7
              you need a ground on your oil pan

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by lifeiskaos View Post
                you need a ground on your oil pan
                no you don't

                check to see if you are getting power at your + post in the engine bay. And check to make sure you have the power going to that post and the ground to the strut tower. The ground is the one closest to the diagnostic plug.
                ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

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                  #9
                  Asubimmer, the grounds are all good, the relays are working perfectly, also checked the wiring harness itself to make sure everything is working and circuits were being completed, I was able to get the check engine light working by sending a power signal through the cars wiring harness, which means my ecu was not sending a signal to turn on the check engine light.. wth?

                  So I put my 413 red label ecu with my TMS chip into a 1995 obd1 e34 525i, the car experienced the same problems, (did not turn on check engine light on cars dashboard while car is on start mode and the car did not start).

                  s52 0-150mph & more http://www.youtube.com/loonibab325i

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                    #10
                    sounds like a bad DME then. I just so happen to have a silver label w/ a bav auto chip FS ;)
                    ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

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                      #11
                      Do you have 12 volts at the solid red wire to your relays? Do you have 12 volts at the DME constant power? If not, then double check which wires you have to battery voltage and which wires you have grounded. If you do have power there, check power at the red/white wires to your relays. If you do not have power at red/white then you either have a ground issue with your DME pins (check all grounds at the connector) or you have a faulty DME.
                      Old and improved:

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                        #12
                        If his DME didn't work in the other car then its a safe bet to say its at least part of the reason that his car won't start. You should test the DME that 's in the e34 in your car and see if it starts.
                        ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by asubimmer View Post
                          If his DME didn't work in the other car then its a safe bet to say its at least part of the reason that his car won't start. You should test the DME that 's in the e34 in your car and see if it starts.
                          I just went ahead and purchased another 413 dme, should be here by the end of the week. i'll let yall know how it goes.

                          s52 0-150mph & more http://www.youtube.com/loonibab325i

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                            #14
                            What wiring adapter are you using?
                            Past Car : E30 S50 6 Speed 5 Lug 3.73
                            Current : Z3 S50 OBD2 (Smog Legal) 6 Speed BBS RN Dual Ear Diff
                            ___________________________________________
                            BNB Designs
                            Engine Swaps, Fabrication, Innovation, General Repair
                            Richmond CA
                            Julian 848-248-8029

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                              #15
                              Check your crank sensor, a bad one will not send a signal to DME to fuel/spark.

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