I am buttoning up my swap and would like to use a fan clutch with the diesel thin fan. I was curious of which fan clutch would work? I have seen others using oem e36 fan clutch but they are also using the original radiator from the e30 or e36. I have a OEM Z3M radiator and I believe it is slightly thicker. Does anyone know if I can use a regular e36 fan clutch with the diesel fan blade?
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95 M3 - Powerdyne supercharger, WAR Chip, Ground Control Track/School coilovers, Eibach Sways, Dinan Exhaust, UUC SSK -
I could not get the diesel fan to work with the Z3M radiator, but could get it to work with the regular e36/e30 radiator on a previous swap. One thing you might be able to do is swap the fan to the back side of the clutch for a little more clearance. I had tried this but noticed the fan blades would hit the Vanos "bump" in the head/valve cover, and attempted to notch the blades, but eventually just settled for an electric pusher fan setup. The other issue I ran into with the fan clutch (such as the m20 one) on the swap cars is that servicing things like belts, pulleys, etc. requires pulling the radiator to remove the fan, which makes a big mess draining coolant each time. -
Thanks for the info. This is exactly what I was looking for. Now I can let go of the fan clutch/diesel fan idea and start looking for an electric fan.Originally posted by mtech325 View Post
You mentioned that you settled for a pusher fan. Do you have an AC condenser installed? I plan to have AC so I am not sure if I can use a pusher. Might have to get a slim mount puller fan however the thin ones are usually very weak and barely pulls 1200cfm if that.
95 M3 - Powerdyne supercharger, WAR Chip, Ground Control Track/School coilovers, Eibach Sways, Dinan Exhaust, UUC SSKComment
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No condenser or a/c installed on my car. I have a Spal 1600 cfm fan that is wired in place of the stock aux fan with a lower temp fan switch, but also curious on a good electric fan setup that can handle putting a/c back into the car.Comment
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Switched to a 16" SPAL (30101517) pusher fan on my car when I deleted the mechanical fan. Plenty of cooling.
Here is how I wired it on my M20:
As the SPAL fan is single-speed, I connected it to the high-speed aux fan circuit Red (+) & Brown (-) to make use of the heavier gauge wiring and 30A fusing from the factory (Compared to the low-speed side).
Normally this would allow the car to get alarmingly hot (98c / 210f) before starting the electric fan, however I swapped the Black/Brown & Black wires on the Dual Temperature Switch connector so that the high-speed circuit energizes at (91c / 196f).
Later went to the slimmest 16" pusher they made at the time, to squeeze it between the radiator and huge front mount intercooler. Part number is 30100401 on that one. Currently controlled by the standalone ECU.
M20 test at idle. Temps drop like a rock when the fan kicks on.
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Would a strong enough pusher fan be able to flow through both the condenser and radiator for sufficient cooling? Or would we need to also have a slim puller fan along with the pusher fan in front of the condenser?Originally posted by mtech325 View Post
95 M3 - Powerdyne supercharger, WAR Chip, Ground Control Track/School coilovers, Eibach Sways, Dinan Exhaust, UUC SSKComment
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Thanks for the info and part numbers!Originally posted by Panici View PostSwitched to a 16" SPAL (30101517) pusher fan on my car when I deleted the mechanical fan. Plenty of cooling.
Here is how I wired it on my M20:
Later went to the slimmest 16" pusher they made at the time, to squeeze it between the radiator and huge front mount intercooler. Part number is 30100401 on that one. Currently controlled by the standalone ECU.
M20 test at idle. Temps drop like a rock when the fan kicks on.
95 M3 - Powerdyne supercharger, WAR Chip, Ground Control Track/School coilovers, Eibach Sways, Dinan Exhaust, UUC SSKComment
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