MIKe30's 11:1 cammed OBD2 s52 build

[whiltebeitel]

The vaccuum leak sounds like the problems my roommate had with an M50 manifold swap using the KO kit. Hoses didn't always seat right, thus the sucking noise when the throttle was opened and some minor idling issues.

[MIKe30]

VSS on obd2 cars is the brown/red wire at pin 9. Fixed my harness and after 10 miles the code didnt come back.

Doing my first break in oil change now. I'm down to MAF code, EVAP running losses code, and a vacuum leak. Still stalls when stopping sometimes, little jerkey at take off, and sucking noise when giving throttle initially. Has to have a vacuum leak, maybe my obd1 mani conversion is hosed incorrectly... lots to check.

Hoping to get the exhaust put on today still. We'll see, hopefully a shop will come through..

[MIKe30]

after searching it does look like VSS is pin 14 blk/white, going to make sure it gets all the way to the dme. It looks like it's pin 42 blk/white at the ecu on obd1 cars...hope it's the same for obd2 cars. I noobishly don't have a wiring schematic of my engine/harness and it's not on that website that jgood has posted before...

[MIKe30]

It made it cut out and if I would get on it I couldnt really rev above 3 grand. But if I just got on it slow and normal it was fine and I could drive it like a granny.

EDIT: Looks like speed sensor is pin 14 and its a small black wire white stripe. I have to go look. But it should be the same on both sides.


You could be able to get a new evap can from the auto zone for a few dollars. then just grab some hose, clamps and a valve from an M20 should work fine.

Interesting. When I would try to take off from a stop, it would jerk/cut out just like a tps issue. I'd have to kinda just get it going, and once it was going I could get on it when I wanted to. No issues highway. Stopping, going, getting moving, keeping an idle, stalling are my symptoms. Thought it was a tps and a vacuum issue until I read the codes..

Hmm.. It shouldn't throw a code if you have the evap valve plugged in. ECU couldn't care less what hoses are actually attached (or not attached).

There could be a break in the wire going to the evap valve or the valve has a short. You could read the resistance between the evap pin #36 at your ECU and +12.

You aren't talking about the running losses solenoid, are you? That was '95 only.

Not sure. I'm talking about whatever it is that plugs into the port between injector one and two on the injector harness. Is that the part that is being referred to by "EVAP System Running Losses Valve"?

[hoveringuy]

I have the valve plugged in but nothings hooked up to the valve.


I really wonder why my MAF is throwing a code... :(

Hmm.. It shouldn't throw a code if you have the evap valve plugged in. ECU couldn't care less what hoses are actually attached (or not attached).

There could be a break in the wire going to the evap valve or the valve has a short. You could read the resistance between the evap pin #36 at your ECU and +12.

You aren't talking about the running losses solenoid, are you? That was '95 only.

[White325is]

It made it cut out and if I would get on it I couldnt really rev above 3 grand. But if I just got on it slow and normal it was fine and I could drive it like a granny.

EDIT: Looks like speed sensor is pin 14 and its a small black wire white stripe. I have to go look. But it should be the same on both sides.



You could be able to get a new evap can from the auto zone for a few dollars. then just grab some hose, clamps and a valve from an M20 should work fine.

[MIKe30]

The wire for the cluster is your speed sensor. Its the single pin one with the green cap. its sending your car into "limp" mode.
PM EricT and he can tell you what one it is. Unless someone here knows the pin number. I had the same problem with mine as did Reef.

Thanks Mike. Did it make your car stall a lot? Just started searching speed sensor threads, this one popped up and highlighted your post ha

[White325is]

The wire for the cluster is your speed sensor. Its the single pin one with the green cap. its sending your car into "limp" mode.
PM EricT and he can tell you what one it is. Unless someone here knows the pin number. I had the same problem with mine as did Reef.

[MIKe30]

i'm glad that you got the diagnostics tool working. what was the problem???

The O2 sensors have two circuits. A heater, and the Catalyst that generates potential for dme signal. If they are new, I would think resetting the dme/codes would do it.
The vehicle speed signal. In e36’s it comes from the differential.. much like ours, goes to the cluster and from the cluster to the DME. Does your tach and Odometer work? If so are you rpm limited at 5k(or 6k?)?

No idea on evap (I thought you deleted it) and air mass codes.

Wish you would've been able to help a little more, but got lucky and flyboyxx helped me out. One of the pins the peak tool uses was not getting power (pin 14 green/white). You can either run that green/white wire through the harness to a 10 amp fused power source, or do like I did and pull back the diagnostic plug cover and splice the 16 power wire to the 14 green/white wire. (actually spliced mine in the main section of the harness, just followed the 14/16 wire down the line).

Don't know if it's limited, car keeps stalling - sometimes holds an idle other times stalls. Guess I have to run a wire from the cluster to the dme? Anyway to do it in the engine bay instead of taking out the cluster and running a new line? Old line should still be there somewhere right? At least up to the harness. :???:

Congrats on getting it running!

EVAP.. this one's easy. When you deleted it you didn't put a load resistor in place of the valve. The ECU MOSFETs are smart enough to know that they should see a cetain amount of current when they turn the purge valve on. If they don't see that minimum threshold current, they signal a fault.

You can fool the MOSFET by getting a 33Ohm power resistor at Rat Shack. It's a big ceramic resistor. 47Ohm would be fine, too.

Nice. Thanks, I think I remember you mentioning this in another (maybe your?) thread. The EVAP valve is electronic right? Don't know if I'm right, but I think it's the one coming right off the injector harness?? I have the valve plugged in but nothings hooked up to the valve.



I really wonder why my MAF is throwing a code... :(

[hoveringuy]

32 - EVAP System Running Losses Valve

Congrats on getting it running!

EVAP.. this one's easy. When you deleted it you didn't put a load resistor in place of the valve. The ECU MOSFETs are smart enough to know that they should see a cetain amount of current when they turn the purge valve on. If they don't see that minimum threshold current, they signal a fault.

You can fool the MOSFET by getting a 33Ohm power resistor at Rat Shack. It's a big ceramic resistor. 47Ohm would be fine, too.

[etxxz]

i'm glad that you got the diagnostics tool working. what was the problem???

The O2 sensors have two circuits. A heater, and the Catalyst that generates potential for dme signal. If they are new, I would think resetting the dme/codes would do it.
The vehicle speed signal. In e36’s it comes from the differential.. much like ours, goes to the cluster and from the cluster to the DME. Does your tach and Odometer work? If so are you rpm limited at 5k(or 6k?)?

No idea on evap (I thought you deleted it) and air mass codes.

[MIKe30]

Never even heard of a sensor heater relay, let alone what it is. Time to search search...

[SamE30e]

It's possible that they'll go away, but it could be a wiring issue. Check the o2 sensor heater relay to make sure they have power when the ignition is on.

And the speed signal, another wiring issue possibly, should be wire going from the harness to the ECU for road speed. There's a thread on here somewhere about it.

[MIKe30]

thanks again guys. Drove her for 15 miles last night. HOLY SHIT ITS FUN!!! :):):)

I can't wait till she's completely broken in and running perfect.

Can anybody explain these codes? Keep in mind I don't believe they were cleared before installing the new o2 sensors. They were cleared, but then it was driven off a trailor, into the lot, and then into the garage onto the lift. Sensors then installed.

Anyway, here's the list of codes thrown:

table 11,

codes
37 - PreCat o2 sensor heater, Cyl #4-6
19 - PreCat o2 sensor heater, Cyl #1-3
08 - Air Mass Sensor
32 - EVAP System Running Losses Valve
D6 - Vehicle speed signal not present

Don't know what the "sensor heater" part is, but should they go away after a reset since the o2 sensors are new?

Air Mass - this becuase my filter is directly on the air mass and there's no bracket securing the position of everything?

Not sure what to do with the EVAP, isn't that for my charcoal canister? yea, I deleted it :embarrassed:

Vehicle speed sensor - motherfucker, gonna have to read the million threads that came up last 2 weeks about this shit. Thought it would have been taken care of when my harness was done, guess not.

Sounded so good with just the headers and midpipe. Has cats and resonator, sounded sooo good!! Can't wait till she's running perfect. Couldn't stop smiling/giggling like a school girl! :mrgreen:

Hope she runs and lasts a long time **knock on wood**

[Wh33lhop]

I'm just quoting this so it won't be buried as quickly. Holy crap.

Congrats man, thing sounds MEAN.