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MIKe30's 11:1 cammed OBD2 s52 build

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    #46
    Originally posted by etxxz View Post
    bimmerworld will do your DME. iirc they quote me $200 for what you're asking + something like $75 for a mild tune (i/h/e). the harness adapter i don't know how OTC it would be. i just made one w/ ewsII for a fellow r3v'er. have made both of my cars. maybe you'll want to pm me and we'll work on the specs... oor go to my obdII thread and make your own
    Uhh, do you mean $75 extra on top of the $500 custom engine tune he needs? I would go with Bimmerworld either way for a tune, b/c they have the MOST experience with tuning Sunbelts. ;)
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      #47
      [QUOTE=MIKe30;1584168]11:1 forged CP pistons and stock rods. From what I understand these stock rods are plenty strong for upwards or 700whp (well something insanely high like that, don't quote me on the exact number)[QUOTE]

      Thanks, only curious because i am using Wiseco .025 overbore pistons right now for my rebuild from Turner with stock rods and everything else. Will upgrade to cams later...not sure what my compression will be though.

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        #48
        Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post






        New question: I'm keeping obd2, I plan on buying an over the counter harness adapter by someone like a treehouse racing and having my rear o2 sensors, secondary air pump, and ews deleted through software tune. Anyone see a reason why this would NOT work?

        I just did a OBD II S52 with EWS in my M3, The wiring is not to bad. I would be happy to share my diagrams with you. Just shoot me a PM.

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          #49
          Originally posted by s52e30m3 View Post
          I just did a OBD II S52 with EWS in my M3, The wiring is not to bad. I would be happy to share my diagrams with you. Just shoot me a PM.
          Excellent! Just shot you a pm. Between this and etxxz's thread I should be alright

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            #50
            As of today, both rear m3 trailing arms are now on. Had trouble removing passenger side ebrake cable, absolutely just wont come off (same goes for rotor allen screw). Looks like I may have to cut the cable and fish in a new one if I want to keep my ebrake bits.

            Rear axles are not on either, have to get them off the old trailing arms. They didnt want to budge with a 30mm socket I had, so I took them off at the diff. Don't know how I'm going to remove that axle nut, but I'm going to have to figure it out. At least the car is supporting its own weight now, and I can tow it to my house if need be. Waiting on calipers to finish being sprayed/rebuilt. Anyway, it's some progress. Slow but steady.

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              #51
              keep them coming... How is Yana doing?
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                #52
                Originally posted by ZM Blue Devil View Post
                keep them coming... How is Yana doing?
                she got hit on friday by some dumb bitch that couldnt drive. :hitler: if you want more details give me a ring when you get a minute...

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                  #53
                  No progress today other than buying a 98 m3 sedan steering rack. That should work just like any other e36 rack right? Price was right so bought it on a whim. 3.2 lock to lock??

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                    #54
                    Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post
                    No progress today other than buying a 98 m3 sedan steering rack. That should work just like any other e36 rack right? Price was right so bought it on a whim. 3.2 lock to lock??
                    Yes, 3.2 turns. Same install procedure as any e36 rack.

                    Erik

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                      #55
                      Originally posted by erik325i View Post
                      Yes, 3.2 turns. Same install procedure as any e36 rack.

                      Erik
                      Seriously, I am about to just fly out tomorrow to San Jose and kidnap you for 3 days until this swap is done. You are quickly becoming my 24v mentor... :bow:

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                        #56
                        Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post
                        Seriously, I am about to just fly out tomorrow to San Jose and kidnap you for 3 days until this swap is done. You are quickly becoming my 24v mentor... :bow:
                        Haha, glad I could help.

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                          #57
                          Started installing the rack, first question is did you guys use spacers on the two bolts to subframe holding rack in place, or just bend tabs till rack fits snug and secure then bolt up? Secondly, seems like there is A LOT of play in my tie tods compared to old rack I just removed. Tie rods almost swing freely and I can even rotate them 360 deg whereas I couldn't eve come close to doing that with my e30 rack. Sound like I have bad inners??

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                            #58
                            all i can say is turbo that bitch

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                              #59
                              Rotation isn't necessarily a bad thing. Backlash is. Can you tug or push on the tierod and get movement? If so, toss them. You should be able to use regular e30 tie rods, if you want to save the old tie rods.
                              '89 325i track sloot
                              '01 530i daily

                              -Enginerd

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                                #60
                                Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post
                                Started installing the rack, first question is did you guys use spacers on the two bolts to subframe holding rack in place, or just bend tabs till rack fits snug and secure then bolt up? Secondly, seems like there is A LOT of play in my tie tods compared to old rack I just removed. Tie rods almost swing freely and I can even rotate them 360 deg whereas I couldn't eve come close to doing that with my e30 rack. Sound like I have bad inners??
                                You need to use spacers to mount the rack. Washers work too if you don't have nice spacers. Most people put the spacers above the rack, but you can reduce bumpsteer by putting the spacers below the rack.

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