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MIKe30's 11:1 cammed OBD2 s52 build

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  • MIKe30
    replied
    Was getting all my ducks in a row. Got what I needed, bench bled the master cylinder, started bleeding the brakes. Got to the last caliper and snapped off the bleeder screw with the threads still in the caliper.

    Went to remove with a screw extractor... I snapped that off in there too.

    FML.

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  • 416stroker
    replied
    That sounds fucking NASTY! Congrats.

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  • markseven
    replied
    Yay! I don't have speaks hooked up right now... will check out the vid at work tomorrow. Congrats!!

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  • MIKe30
    replied
    Originally posted by z31maniac View Post
    Don't worry, we were able to bleed the master find on the car, with all new calipers, didn't take as much fluid as I thought it would either.

    Congrats on getting it running!!
    Thats good to hear, I actually just bought some bleeder valve fittings that fit right on the master. I will try to bench bleed it while it's installed best I can, then I will bleed the rest of the brakes.

    Then it's see if I can find an exhaust shop to do my exhaust today or tomorrow. Do most custom shops take walk-in's or do you have to schedule an appt? Buddy recommended a place that he gets all his stuff done at, but I forgot to ask him and this is my first time getting custom exhaust work done...

    Originally posted by Spaz View Post
    Congratz dude :D
    Originally posted by bmws50b30 View Post
    sounds mean. congrats!
    Thanks guys! George, you will see your ex soon ;)

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  • bmws50b30
    replied
    sounds mean. congrats!

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  • Spaz
    replied
    Congratz dude :D

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  • z31maniac
    replied
    Don't worry, we were able to bleed the master find on the car, with all new calipers, didn't take as much fluid as I thought it would either.

    Congrats on getting it running!!

    Leave a comment:


  • dude8383
    replied
    sounds awesome with open headers doesn't it?! congratulations and welcome to the club :)

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  • e30s52
    replied
    Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post
    Thanks! Have to go outside and mount the master/bleed the brakes.

    I tried to find a master bench bleeder kit but couldnt find one. I'll see what I can do without one, but I don't think it's going to be pretty.

    I'm thinking from the sounds of it, I can get it to where it's safely driveable, but then I'll just buy a new master and new slave for the hell of it and install them later (before I drive it on a regular basis and definately before my hpde day comes up).


    Trying to take it out for a spin tonight!
    I have a snap-on one and it works really well but I dont think you want to pay there price if you only use it once.

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  • MIKe30
    replied
    Originally posted by e30s52 View Post
    Very nice! welcome to the club!
    Thanks! Have to go outside and mount the master/bleed the brakes.

    I tried to find a master bench bleeder kit but couldnt find one. I'll see what I can do without one, but I don't think it's going to be pretty.

    I'm thinking from the sounds of it, I can get it to where it's safely driveable, but then I'll just buy a new master and new slave for the hell of it and install them later (before I drive it on a regular basis and definately before my hpde day comes up).


    Trying to take it out for a spin tonight!

    Leave a comment:


  • e30s52
    replied
    Very nice! welcome to the club!

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  • MIKe30
    replied

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  • MIKe30
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood View Post
    There's very little leverage on the rod, it's mostly compression. So a GOOD weld will be fine. Make sure an experienced professional does it. It's worth whatever the cost is.

    I went with the cut/rethread the shaft and drill out/rethread the clevis pin option. I ended up with a weird thread size. I had some local Mennonite guy do it, as a proper tap/die set is $$$.
    Thanks for the would be assurance. Turns out the guy I went to today to do the weld (an ironworker by trade) was able to thread it the right size. He said the weld would have been the strongest point on the entire rod, but the metal surrounding the rod may have been ever so slightly compromised.

    He felt much better about it being able to thread it properly. I threw him a $20 and went on my way.

    Yea, my dad said good tap/die sets are middle 3-figure territory $$$


    Uploading a vid now :p

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post
    Hope to God that a weld will be strong enough for the lever forces when braking. Anyone think it's a bad idea?
    There's very little leverage on the rod, it's mostly compression. So a GOOD weld will be fine. Make sure an experienced professional does it. It's worth whatever the cost is.

    I went with the cut/rethread the shaft and drill out/rethread the clevis pin option. I ended up with a weird thread size. I had some local Mennonite guy do it, as a proper tap/die set is $$$.

    Leave a comment:


  • MIKe30
    replied
    Originally posted by Spaz View Post
    The no brake booster would cause quite the vacuum leak ;)

    Glad you got it running now get it finished man!

    -Cam
    Originally posted by 416stroker View Post
    Can't wait for a vid of the exaust tone.
    Who said I'm making any videos?! ;)

    Funny though, my dad was there when I started it. He used to have a garage with his dad back in the day so he knows his way around cars. I started it up, and he plugged the mani where the brake booster goes with his finger (I actually cut/installed a small piece of hose with the check valve attached thinking it would act like it was capped off, but guess not). After the motor shut off, he goes - hm, sounds like you have an exhaust leak!

    "ya, think dad? It's open headers... haha"



    later on i tried it again, but I taped off the end of the check valve with electrical tape. This time it stayed running but it still wasn't acting right with throttle and the rev's would stay high and come down super slow. We'll see how today goes..

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