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Where on the temp gauge is your swap running?

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    Where on the temp gauge is your swap running?

    OBD-I S52, seems to be running a bit hotter today (just highway driving taking it easy) than it was on Thursday thrashing on it in my dads warehouse parking lot.

    It's running just on the hot side of the middle mark under load and dead center at idle. This new warmer running condition has also been accompanied by a check engine light. Engine seems to be running fine, but I don't have access to an OBD-I code reader.

    I'm hoping I'll be able to take it to one of the specialty shops on Monday to get the code read. O2, DME coolant and crank sensor are all new.

    Any ideas? Honestly I have a sneaking suspicion about the headgasket.
    Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
    Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

    www.gutenparts.com
    One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!


    #2
    tarbo build? hx35 and a 666 mani in your future?

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      #3
      Nope, if something is up with this motor, I'll most likely say fuck it and part everything.

      I'd suspect the radiator cap if I hadn't got the CEL as well, but maybe it's just coincidence?
      Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
      Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

      www.gutenparts.com
      One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

      Comment


        #4
        I'll bet money it's an O2 code...

        Not that that relates to your warm engine but that's pretty common with swaps unless you're really good with your wiring. Check the overflow line from your rad to your tank, mine was plugged and gave me every symptom of a blown headgasket. It was easily solved with an air hose.
        '89 325is S50 Track Montser
        '04 X5 Daily/Tow Vehicle

        http://www.avarestoration.com

        http://www.myspace.com/brendanfiddle


        Click here if you want to be my zombie slave...

        http://www.youtube.com/user/Fidhle007

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          #5
          Originally posted by z31maniac View Post
          OBD-I S52, seems to be running a bit hotter today (just highway driving taking it easy) than it was on Thursday thrashing on it in my dads warehouse parking lot.

          It's running just on the hot side of the middle mark under load and dead center at idle. This new warmer running condition has also been accompanied by a check engine light. Engine seems to be running fine, but I don't have access to an OBD-I code reader.

          I'm hoping I'll be able to take it to one of the specialty shops on Monday to get the code read. O2, DME coolant and crank sensor are all new.

          Any ideas? Honestly I have a sneaking suspicion about the headgasket.
          I don't think that's necessarily "hot". That's where mine sits. You are looking at a 20 year old gauge, maybe you could get a more accurate temp reading somehow?
          85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
          e30 restoration and V8 swap
          24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

          Comment


            #6
            Do the S5x motors just naturally run hotter than the M20 as well? It's the stock M3 thermostat(new), new water pump and new E30 radiator.

            I noticed with the temp gauge just above middle yesterday, when I turned the car off the coolant was boiling/bubbling. So could it just be a problem with the overflow tank/cap not allowing the system to build enough pressure?

            Fack!
            Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
            Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

            www.gutenparts.com
            One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by z31maniac View Post
              Do the S5x motors just naturally run hotter than the M20 as well? It's the stock M3 thermostat(new), new water pump and new E30 radiator.

              I noticed with the temp gauge just above middle yesterday, when I turned the car off the coolant was boiling/bubbling. So could it just be a problem with the overflow tank/cap not allowing the system to build enough pressure?

              Fack!
              I'm about to use a new m42 radiator, all these running warm threads aren't looking good!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post
                I'm about to use a new m42 radiator, all these running warm threads aren't looking good!
                I've been running my m42 rad for about 2.5 years now with no problems and the same in my friends swap for about a year. He doesn't even have his electric fan wired up, still...
                ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

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                  #9
                  Mine always sits a tick below the half line.

                  Do the stomp test to read your check engine codes, then read the number of flashes. You know how to do this right? I have a reader but dont always have it with me if I am helping someone, so its a good method to learn.

                  Turn the key to on, 5 stomps to the floor on the gas pedal within 5 seconds.
                  sigpic

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                    #10
                    Here are the codes (from Bentley):

                    1211: DME Control Module
                    1215: Mass Air Flow
                    1216: Throttle potentiometer
                    1218: Output Stage Group 1
                    1219: Output Stage Group 2
                    1221: O2 Sensor 1
                    1212: O2 Sensor 2
                    1222: O2 lean/rich control stop
                    1213: O2 sensor 2 lean/rich c/s
                    1223: Coolant Temp Sensor
                    1224: Air Temp Sensor
                    1225: Knock sensor 1
                    1226: Knock Sensor 2
                    1231: Battery Voltage Monitor
                    1232: Idle Position Signal
                    1233: Wide Open Throttle Signal
                    1234: Speedometer A signal
                    1237: A/C cut-off
                    1242: A/C signal
                    1243: Crankshaft Position Sensor
                    1244: Camshaft Position Sensor
                    1245: Elect. Tranny control intervention
                    1247: Ignition Secondary Monitor
                    1251: Fuel injectors 1,3,5
                    1252: Fuel injectors 2,4,6
                    1251: Fuel Injector 1
                    1252: Fuel Injector 2
                    1253: Fuel Injector 3
                    1254: Fuel Injector 4
                    1255: Fuel Injector 5
                    1256: Fuel Injector 6
                    1261: Fuel Pump
                    1262: Idle Speed Control
                    1263: Evap. System
                    1264: O2 Sensor Heater
                    1265: Check Engine Lamp
                    1266: VANOS
                    1267: Air Pump
                    1271: Ignition Coil 1
                    1272: Ignition Coil 2
                    1273: Ignition Coil 3
                    1274: Ignition Coil 4
                    1275: Ignition Coil 5
                    1276: Ignition Coil 6
                    1281: DME Memory
                    1282: Fault Code Memory
                    1283: Fuel Injector Output Stage
                    1286: Knock Control test pulse
                    1000: End of faults
                    1444: No faults
                    sigpic

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                      #11
                      yes try the stomp test. seems to work for me if i start stomping immediately after turning the key to on. for what its worth i also have an obd1 s52 and it will occasionally get right above the halfway mark. ive been driving the car for months with no issues. im running the stock m20b25 cooling fan flipped around to give more radiator clearance, and also the stock auxiliary fan. and i did keep the a/c as well. my auxiliary fan resistor was cracked so i just bypassed it and the fan always turns on to high speed. also running the cooler thermostat and temp switch from http://www.e30dohc.com/wiki/index.ph...HC_Swap_Basics

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                        #12
                        I run at 1 tick to the left of middle with a stock thermostat and a little hole drilled in it, no fan (have a pusher wired to a/c button but dont need it unless i'm in slow traffic)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Van Westervelt View Post
                          Mine always sits a tick below the half line.

                          Do the stomp test to read your check engine codes, then read the number of flashes. You know how to do this right? I have a reader but dont always have it with me if I am helping someone, so its a good method to learn.

                          Turn the key to on, 5 stomps to the floor on the gas pedal within 5 seconds.
                          No, I'll search it when I get home........I hate furniture salesmen! Thanks for posting up the codes though!
                          Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
                          Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

                          www.gutenparts.com
                          One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I live in Phoenix, AZ. Its been 115+ lately. I have M50 Vanos and my gauge sits at half way or a tick past.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              mine sits in the middle when idling and a tick to the left when moving. it reads past the middle when i start the engine after driving but it settles in the middle after a minute or 2.

                              s50, m20 radiator and stock fan.

                              1991 330is


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