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    #16
    scratch that found them in wiki


    321 HP out of the single vanos late model S50B32 ios that euro only?

    the S52B32 is late model m3 and only made 240 HP?


    all this seems moot right? I think i would rather have a S38B36 from a E34..would be an easier swap no? with 310 ponies
    88 325ic ~~~> Rusty and ugly
    85 E ~~~> RIP

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      #17
      Just incase any of you are needing the correct tools to do this job or any other job (HG) that requires the removal of the vanos system, I have rented these tools to other members in the past on here, e30tech and Bimmerforums. Pm me if your interested. Please note I only have one set so its first come first serve.

      zav3n badass link!!
      sigpic

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        #18
        nice !
        88 325ic ~~~> Rusty and ugly
        85 E ~~~> RIP

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by WADE30 View Post
          Don't go with DrVanos. Buy a new oem one. I went with DrVanos and was given a vanos unit noisier than the one I sent them.
          Originally posted by WADE30 View Post
          About $400 vs Dr. Vanos 1st stage $275, 2nd stage $375

          Reliability! Trust me, I wish I would have bought new.
          I will have to disagree with you, my poor inline-6 sounded like a diesel (almost) and after purchasing the Dr.Vanos Stg 1 kit the noise completely went away. I also felt an improvement in power delivery :)

          Originally posted by zav3n View Post
          http://www.beisansystems.com/

          i vouch for them 110% i installed the seals as well and the anti-rattle kit worked like a charm.
          I did this before biting the bullet and buying the Dr.Vanos kit. The seals are are good thing to replace only if the Vanos isn't completely fucked. In my case the gear had A LOT of play in int. Make sure you inspect the play in the vanos unit before ordering, if theres too much then the seals won't do squat.
          IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

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            #20
            Originally posted by M-technik-3 View Post
            Or put new seals in yourself.
            Originally posted by zav3n View Post
            http://www.beisansystems.com/

            i vouch for them 110% i installed the seals as well and the anti-rattle kit worked like a charm.
            Several local shops use this seal set and it works great. I was referred to these guys by a friend who has done ~20 or so repairs using their kit and it has fixed the issue every time. So yeah, plus one for this idea. It costs around $30 shipped to your door, as opposed to the Dr. Vanos deal that requires the hassle of a core and costs 2-3x as much..

            Originally posted by Naplm00 View Post
            321 HP out of the single vanos late model S50B32 ios that euro only?

            the S52B32 is late model m3 and only made 240 HP?
            The Euro DUAL vanos later 3.2 litre does 321 hp. The earlier single vanos Euro 3.0 litre does 286 hp iirc.

            Yes, US S52B32 only made 240 hp, so it's slow.

            Have fun finding, fitting, and funding the S38B36.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Naplm00 View Post
              scratch that found them in wiki


              321 HP out of the single vanos late model S50B32 ios that euro only?

              the S52B32 is late model m3 and only made 240 HP?


              all this seems moot right? I think i would rather have a S38B36 from a E34..would be an easier swap no? with 310 ponies
              NV M50: 189 hp, ~175ish torques iirc, very different behavior to vanos m50s
              M50: 189 hp, 185 torques (?) or thereabouts, much broader power curve.
              M52: 192 hp, 195 torques (?) or thereabouts, basically a 2.8L OBDII M50
              S50 US: 240hp, 225 torques, single US vanos
              S50 Euro: 286 hp, 236 torque or so, single infinitely variable vanos, no parts commonality with M/S5X motors
              S52: 240hp, 236 torque, much more DD-able motor as the torque peak is significantly lower.
              S50B32 Euro: 321hp, 250(?) torque, dual infinite vanos, no parts commonality

              All of those motors bolt in the exact same way to the E30. The only difference is brake booster clearance and radiator and electronics, the rest is all plug and play. Don't take my numbers as exact, they're more ballpark numbers off the top of my head.

              S38B36: 315hp, fucking awesome motor. Major pain in the ass to fit in an E30. Subframe must be lowered or refabricated, radiator must be massaged/relocated further forward, the firewall needs to be bashed in for clearancing if you want to mount the engine in position III (vs II or I), motor is insanely expensive to repair if it hasn't been maintained (rebuilds start around $12k), I have no idea on brake booster.

              If I was rich, I'd swap an S38B38 in without hesitation. It is just a masterpiece of a motor. If I was to do the swap tomorrow, I would go with an S50 or S52 US motor as the aftermarket support is the best, parts availability is the best, used spare motors are common, etc etc. M/S5x motors are incredibly easy to swap in, S38s are not at all.

              And for Vanos....you'd only lock it or delete it if you go standalone, which you would be pretty much stupid to do. Just get the proper 413 or 506 DME, a chip, and enjoy.

              The most important question is what is your budget, and second, what do you intend to use the car for?
              2017 Chevrolet SS, 6MT
              95 M3/2/5 (S54 and Mk60 DSC, CARB legal, Build Thread)
              98 M3/4/5 (stock)

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                #22
                Originally posted by Naplm00 View Post
                all this seems moot right? I think i would rather have a S38B36 from a E34..would be an easier swap no? with 310 ponies
                har har har

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by zav3n View Post
                  http://www.beisansystems.com/

                  i vouch for them 110% i installed the seals as well and the anti-rattle kit worked like a charm.
                  I wish they had the anti-rattle out 3 months ago!

                  I installed their seal which works great but after about 2 weeks my car sounds like a buzz bomber from 2-3k I need that anti-rattle piece bad

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by lennon View Post
                    har har har

                    thanks for al the input
                    88 325ic ~~~> Rusty and ugly
                    85 E ~~~> RIP

                    Comment


                      #25
                      wow! 24 posts and no, "SEARCH NOOB!"

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