The MikeE30 support team thread. Q and A

[MIKe30]

any thoughts?

[Spaz]

Seems like it could happen pull off the clutch and pressure plate and inspect for rubbing. There shouldn't be any rubbing though, unless the friction side of the flywheel was machined down way out of spec or the wrong clutch disc was used.

Pull the trans and take pictures of the damage/shavings and report back :)

-Cam

[MIKe30]

Seems like it could happen pull off the clutch and pressure plate and inspect for rubbing. There shouldn't be any rubbing though, unless the friction side of the flywheel was machined down way out of spec or the wrong clutch disc was used.

Pull the trans and take pictures of the damage/shavings and report back :)

-Cam

Already pulled it, there was rubbing and slight metal shavings where I colored the diagram. It has to be what it is, clutch kit came all together so pp/clutch/to match, flywheel bought seperate has to be what it is. Noise is getting less the more I drive her though which supports my theory...

On another note, along with pcv hoses/unit, I'm about to order crank and cam sensor for the heck of it. I'd imagine they're original and I've had them go bad on a swap car before. Need to check harness part number in my car though before ordering, apparently there is an updated one. Anyone heard of this? (not main harness, just harness between crank/cam sensors, iirc)

[2002maniac]

I'd like to just take a 1/8" or maybe even a 1/4" off the edge there and I think that would do the trick. What do you think?

That seems like a ton. The fact that it even turns make me think that it's only barley rubbing. Shaving off .010-.020" should be sufficient. It is was a seriour interference, tightening the pressure plate would lock up the clutch disc against the block and your starter motor wouldnt even turn the motor over.

[2002maniac]

At least you're getting pretty good at removing the trans :)

[flyboyx]

I'm thinking I should remove everything again, and either A) space the flywheel or B) take the clutch and shave down that colored edge myself so when I put it back it doesnt have the chance to touch anything else. I like option B, I'm just curious if it matters if the clutch doesnt end up PERFECTLY balanced. I'd like to just take a 1/8" or maybe even a 1/4" off the edge there and I think that would do the trick. What do you think?

Took it for a drive last night, noise still there but it's intermittent now. It may even go away on its own but I am a bit afraid of it causing damage to anything else, even though theoretically it would eventually mill itself down to where it doesnt touch.

don't take any material off your flywheel yourself. that is a critical part and NEEDS to be balanced. that sound could still be coming from your bell housing. since you only inspected and put back together, that part could still be rubbing. i would not rule it out yet. also, i can't determine any useful info from the real oem photo you posted with this thread. i assume that the pressure plate is hitting the transmission bell housing somewhere along its radius since the photo does not show the flywheel. the m20 fly depending on the model can be really thick. i would guess to solve your problem, you will need to have the face of the fly machined down perhaps as much as 1/4". you may also need to take some material off the opposite side to clear the back of the engine and oil pan. there have been threads in the past dealing with such a problem. personally, i used the dual mass s52 flywheel and clutch setup with a g260 and seem to have no clearance issues at this point. i am not telling you to swap to e36 parts, but my reasons for choosing this setup were: 1) i had all of the parts. all i had to do was replace the clutch, pp, and throw. 2) it all bolts up with no clearance issues 3) this set has the most contact area available for our cars

[FredK]

I'm not sure if you need that extra wiring harness. I replaced it on my E36 328is, but I found I already had the right harness. I think the connector style changed on the crank position sensor or something like that, in 3/1998.

[MIKe30]

don't take any material off your flywheel yourself. that is a critical part and NEEDS to be balanced. that sound could still be coming from your bell housing. since you only inspected and put back together, that part could still be rubbing. i would not rule it out yet. also, i can't determine any useful info from the real oem photo you posted with this thread. i assume that the pressure plate is hitting the transmission bell housing somewhere along its radius since the photo does not show the flywheel. the m20 fly depending on the model can be really thick. i would guess to solve your problem, you will need to have the face of the fly machined down perhaps as much as 1/4". you may also need to take some material off the opposite side to clear the back of the engine and oil pan. there have been threads in the past dealing with such a problem. personally, i used the dual mass s52 flywheel and clutch setup with a g260 and seem to have no clearance issues at this point. i am not telling you to swap to e36 parts, but my reasons for choosing this setup were: 1) i had all of the parts. all i had to do was replace the clutch, pp, and throw. 2) it all bolts up with no clearance issues 3) this set has the most contact area available for our cars

Never said anything about shaving or touching the flywheel. Look at the diagram. I colored in grey where the rubbing and metal shavings were found. On the clutch.

Just had a long debate with my old man. Is the clutch constantly in motion, or only while in gear?

I'm not sure if you need that extra wiring harness. I replaced it on my E36 328is, but I found I already had the right harness. I think the connector style changed on the crank position sensor or something like that, in 3/1998.

Idk, I bought it anyway. Fuck it.

[Spaz]

The only time a clutchdisc would not be in motion would be when the clutch pedal is pressed.

But this also depends, sometimes the input shaft of the transmission will still spin slowly even though the clutch is disengaged.

If that sound is related to the clutch disc/flywheel it would get louder/quieter as you release/engage the clutch. Since the pressure plate would force the disc further on to flywheel and or bolts that you think it's hitting.

If it doesn't the problem lies elsewhere.

[MIKe30]

The only time a clutchdisc would not be in motion would be when the clutch pedal is pressed.

But this also depends, sometimes the input shaft of the transmission will still spin slowly even though the clutch is disengaged.

If that sound is related to the clutch disc/flywheel it would get louder/quieter as you release/engage the clutch. Since the pressure plate would force the disc further on to flywheel and or bolts that you think it's hitting.

If it doesn't the problem lies elsewhere.

No, I don't think it's hitting the bolts, I think the part that I colored is hitting the block somehow. Clutch in, out, in gear, doesn't matter. So tired of this lol.

[Spaz]

Clutch in, out, in gear, doesn't matter. So tired of this lol.

This is what strikes me as strange and leads me to believe its not a problem with the clutch disc...wish i was there to take a look :|

[MIKe30]

This is what strikes me as strange and leads me to believe its not a problem with the clutch disc...wish i was there to take a look :|

Just swing by, I'll wait right here till you get here.

[Spaz]

Ha, maybe if you lived in the PNW i'd cross the border to take a looksi