All coil packs are known good? I had a car that was doing something similar, Was like that when I bought. Turned out it was a nut that held a coil in place wedged between the coil and the valve cover so that coil was arcing to the VC. Worked fine at idle but in upper range it was broken up.
Help me diagnose, videos
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Ok, stop driving it.
Unplug the MAF. Does it help?
Make sure the O2 is good.
Put an Oscilloscope or swap good CPS (Crank) in.
Read vacuum at idle. Should be around -20Hg (Ish)
Get a can of brake parts cleaner and spray it on EVERYTHING past the MAF.
Also check your booster (Interior side) Spray on the foam. If your booster has a leak, so does your motor.
Check your spark plug gap (Try this by it self) Helps diagnosis. Ill tell you a story one day.
Check for the proper continuity on the Coil packs. If you need the # let me know.
The engine is very ground dependent. Make sure its grounded
The O2 wiring is pretty hard to fuck up (Since its integrated into the Engine harness)
A lambda code usually has nothing to do with the O2 (sometimes) and more to do with an intake leak (another good story)
If you have any questions or need a hand walking through some diagnosis steps. Feel free to call.Past Car : E30 S50 6 Speed 5 Lug 3.73
Current : Z3 S50 OBD2 (Smog Legal) 6 Speed BBS RN Dual Ear Diff
___________________________________________
BNB Designs
Engine Swaps, Fabrication, Innovation, General Repair
Richmond CA
Julian 848-248-8029
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I started tearing into the car again today. I was going after the crank position sensor and decided to check/clean the icv. I think the clip for the icv into the manifold was not sealing well - hopefully this is my main problem. I'll replace it soon to see.
Anyway, my icv is pretty loose and easy to move internally. I can open/close the valve by just shaking the cylinder. It seemed very clean.
I decided to wait on the cps until I can test a new icv clip first.
Wish me luck. Any input on the icv?
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Originally posted by TDE30What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?Originally posted by slammin.e28I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.Comment
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you might want to check your tps as its a major input for calculating load. also very possible its a vacuum leak. do you have any exhaust leaks, if so they will suck in oxygen and push out co/hc makeing engine run hella rich but that doesnt seem to be the problem. also ohming out your coils is always fast n easy. good luck325es/24v's/20psi/meth injection/
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you might be back feeding through the O2 circuit. the way to isolate the back feed issue is to add a relay in between the 2 wires. I did a write up about it a good while back so search it and you will find.
Had same issue with mine and solved it this way.
join the E30 Cabrio owners gruppe
click here for details
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I took the car out this morning. It started out idling well but quickly went to a lumpy inconsistent idle. I was able to rip around my block through the whole rpm range but it didn't want to idle at stoplights.
Twenty minutes later, I started it up and it was puttering around like in the first videos. No power at all.
This is getting really frustrating.
Organic- can you point me to the writeup?
thanksLast edited by Lof8; 11-28-2009, 12:27 PM.
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Originally posted by TDE30What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?Originally posted by slammin.e28I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.Comment
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Here is what my icv is doing. Should it be so loose?
And some video of driving today - at least it would accelerate through the whole range. However, 20 mins later it was doing the same shit as the videos in the first post
Its fun when it runs right. :(
The only code I was getting today was 1222 - lambda control - o2
this shit sucks. anyone willing to lend a known good red 143? I'll pay shipping both ways.
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Originally posted by TDE30What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?Originally posted by slammin.e28I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.Comment
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Did you try any of these?Ok, stop driving it.
Unplug the MAF. Does it help?
Make sure the O2 is good.
Put an Oscilloscope or swap good CPS (Crank) in.
Read vacuum at idle. Should be around -20Hg (Ish)
Get a can of brake parts cleaner and spray it on EVERYTHING past the MAF.
Also check your booster (Interior side) Spray on the foam. If your booster has a leak, so does your motor.
Check your spark plug gap (Try this by it self) Helps diagnosis. Ill tell you a story one day.
Check for the proper continuity on the Coil packs. If you need the # let me know.
The engine is very ground dependent. Make sure its grounded
The O2 wiring is pretty hard to fuck up (Since its integrated into the Engine harness)
A lambda code usually has nothing to do with the O2 (sometimes) and more to do with an intake leak (another good story)
If you have any questions or need a hand walking through some diagnosis steps. Feel free to call.
Mostly the vacumm check.Past Car : E30 S50 6 Speed 5 Lug 3.73
Current : Z3 S50 OBD2 (Smog Legal) 6 Speed BBS RN Dual Ear Diff
___________________________________________
BNB Designs
Engine Swaps, Fabrication, Innovation, General Repair
Richmond CA
Julian 848-248-8029
Comment
-
I have been through everything on the intake a number of times. I was sure I found the problem when the icv clip didn't seem to be sealing. I replaced it and had pretty good results for a few minutes. But then it was back to the same old.
Its very inconsistent. I had it idling perfect with the front left corner jacked up. Dropped it down and it stalled. I was ripping up the road for 5 minutes and 20 mins. later it has no power at all.
I've got a new set of coils and a crank sensor here that I'll probably go after next.
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Originally posted by TDE30What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?Originally posted by slammin.e28I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.Comment
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I found a small residue of fuel in the intake manifold directly behind the throttle body. How the hell would that happen?
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Originally posted by TDE30What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?Originally posted by slammin.e28I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.Comment
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it is exactly what I was running into on my swap...the relay solves.
linky
Originally posted by organicno--
cut 13-13
on the relay you will see these numbers
connect--
-- relay-- wire--
30-postitive key on(power)
85-ground
86-pin 13 from e30
87-pin 13 e36
join the E30 Cabrio owners gruppe
click here for details
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I will try your rewire for the o2 - some of the posts talk about integrating fuse 11 and another fused wire, but your response here doesn't mention it. Which one is correct?
Its such a strange problem because at times this car is flying and others it barely moves.
Where do you source the relay? Is it one of the many orange relays from the e30 fuse box? or another kind?
Thanks organic - I've got my fingers crossed.Last edited by Lof8; 11-29-2009, 08:26 PM.
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Originally posted by TDE30What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?Originally posted by slammin.e28I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.Comment
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I put power to the green/violet pin 13 wire via fuse 11. The car ran smoothly through the whole rpm range!!!!
BUT, it still didn't want to idle for me.
After a nice rip up to about 60, I'd come up to a stop sign, clutch in, and the car dies.
While doing the wiring from fuse 11, I found a burnt ground wire on the e30 side of my adapter. I could not tell what pin the wire goes to, so I got in contact with gregslow and he's making a new adapter for me.
fingers crossed:D

******check out my icv video above and let me know if the internals should move so freely.Last edited by Lof8; 12-03-2009, 08:14 AM.
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Originally posted by TDE30What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?Originally posted by slammin.e28I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.Comment

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