Autocross use = welded oil pump nut?

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  • E turd
    Advanced Member
    • Dec 2008
    • 102

    #1

    Autocross use = welded oil pump nut?

    Hey guys. I've been reading a bunch about the motor I got (m52b28 single vanos) and what all should be done while it's out and on the stand. Among a few things, the notorious oil pump nut issue will be addressed. I really want to get it welded, but I don't have a welder and don't have a truck to get my motor to someone who does. I know I can use the safety wire nut that bimmerworld sells, or punch the threads in where the nut meets the shaft, but it seems like welding would be the best, most solid option.


    Any suggestions on how I might go about getting mine welded, or input to suggest that the safety wire nut will be good enough?


    Thanks!
  • matt
    No R3VLimiter
    • Oct 2003
    • 3731

    #2
    Welding it is great until you need to take it off.

    Use safety wire.

    Comment

    • E turd
      Advanced Member
      • Dec 2008
      • 102

      #3
      I understand that, but when do you need to take it off? The only reason I have found so far where guys need to take it off is to do the mod I am referring to.

      Comment

      • matt
        No R3VLimiter
        • Oct 2003
        • 3731

        #4
        You will need to take it off if you ever need to pull the crank out of your motor, or pull the oil pump out of your motor.

        Lets look at this a different way. Why is safety wire less desirable than welding?

        Comment

        • Adrian_Visser
          R3VLimited
          • Jun 2006
          • 2823

          #5
          Dude safety wire is SAFE I use it all the time to secure various bolts on the helicopters I work on it is an accepted standard. Fuck sakes there is even an ANSI standard developed for its use.

          The picture of the lockwire on the bimmerworld drilled nut is fucking wrong though!
          When you lockwire a bolt or nut you wrap it so that the wire is pulling it tighter not looser, common sense no?

          And trust me it takes a shit load of force to break lock wire by turning the nut/bolt that shit is strong!

          Just don't try and use some soft shitty wire. When we lockwire stuff we us stainless steel safey wire, in this application .032" would be correct.

          '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

          Comment

          • FredK
            R3V OG
            • Oct 2003
            • 14738

            #6
            The picture on the Bimmerworld site shows the safety wire in a configuration that prevents clockwise rotation.

            The oil pump shaft and nut for an M5x engine is reverse thread. Clockwise loosens.

            Safety wire is used in a lot of aviation applications, where failure = falling out of the sky, and would be fine for the oil pump nut.

            Comment

            • mazur
              Mod Crazy
              • Jan 2006
              • 731

              #7
              Originally posted by matt
              You will need to take it off if you ever need to pull the crank out of your motor, or pull the oil pump out of your motor.
              Really?...why would you say that? I don't remember having trouble removing mine with sprocket.

              Comment

              • hoveringuy
                R3VLimited
                • Dec 2005
                • 2673

                #8
                What about Loctite?

                Comment

                • FredK
                  R3V OG
                  • Oct 2003
                  • 14738

                  #9
                  A mechanical means of securing the nut would definitely be the way to go. Loctite does not do well at temperature. Most grades see a 25 to 50% reduction in strength at typical oil temperatures (200°F). Resistance to heated motor oil also depends by grade.

                  EDIT: Looking through the permanent threadlocker compounds offered by Loctite, it'd seem to me that 278 is the one that would be ideal to use. Most other common grades, even high temperature grades such as 262, wither under high temperature (read: temperature of motor oil) and oil exposure.
                  Last edited by FredK; 12-04-2009, 12:12 PM.

                  Comment

                  • etxxz
                    R3VLimited
                    • Feb 2006
                    • 2085

                    #10
                    i used locktite 262 on my engine... look at it now. i personally don't mind grinding off a spot weld. the wire may very well be strong and secure enough. If something happens violent enough to break it, it will probably shear off a spot weld too... your engine is likely to be toast by then as well.
                    No more e30s for me.
                    88 black BMW OBDII 332is dedicated track [sold]
                    88 BMW OBDII bronzit 332is [RIP 03/08]
                    91 BMW 325i [sold]
                    86 Corolla 'Ae86' HB 20v trd [sold]
                    http://youtube.com/watch?v=pTj7Hn9v5Rs

                    Comment

                    • hoveringuy
                      R3VLimited
                      • Dec 2005
                      • 2673

                      #11
                      Originally posted by etxxz
                      i used locktite 262 on my engine....
                      Wow. I'm not glad I have that in commom with you. I also gave the nut a good center-punch. I'll be sure to shut it down ASAP if I see that light!

                      Comment

                      • E turd
                        Advanced Member
                        • Dec 2008
                        • 102

                        #12
                        Thanks for all the input, guys. I have nothing against the safety wire (hell, it would definitely be easier to do the safety nut), just wanted the piece of mind from those with experience. Looks like I'll be ordering the nut.

                        Comment

                        • evil_twin
                          R3VLimited
                          • Nov 2007
                          • 2965

                          #13
                          ugh, that means i have to drop the subframe to drop the oil pan. Sigh, i dont want to do the OPN
                          I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.

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                          • e30s50dan
                            R3VLimited
                            • Nov 2008
                            • 2076

                            #14
                            welded mine,cause i lazy.....and its a M50nv

                            wire it
                            NASA
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                            1991 318IS slick top
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                            2001 325CI DD

                            “whoever turns the wheel the least, wins"

                            Comment

                            • hoveringuy
                              R3VLimited
                              • Dec 2005
                              • 2673

                              #15
                              Originally posted by evil_twin
                              ugh, that means i have to drop the subframe to drop the oil pan. Sigh, i dont want to do the OPN
                              It's not even that easy for me... I would need to separate the tranny as well.

                              Comment

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