M52 OBD1 question

[rpob5t]

Hopefully I'm just over thinking this but anyone who has OBD1'd an M/S52 what did you do with all the vacuum lines? can I just run everything as the OBD2 setup and just get a manifold conversion kit (like the m50manifold.com kits) and be up and running that way or is there some other way I can simplify things? Basically I'm putting this in a track car so 100% emissions compliance isn't really an issue so if there's a way to rig things up for simpicity's sake and still have it running properly I'm all for it.

Thanks,

[FredK]

If you do a complete OBD-I swap, from the manifold to the fuel rail, you will be able to remove all of the vacuum lines that the M52 comes with.

Ordinarily, the bottom of the M52/S52 manifold has quite a few vacuum connectors on that plate that is held in place by six torx screws. I believe one of them leads to an electric check valve, that leads to a metal hardline under the VANOS that actuates the secondary air pump. This entire system is discarded.

One leads to the FPR. There's a fatter one that leads to ... something or other. I forgot what it does.

In any case, the easiest thing to do is to use an OBD-I manifold and throttle body, and use the OBD-I crank case ventilation system and idle control system. You'll want to use the OBD-I manifold for a track car anyway, due to the increased flow up top.

You will not need an M50manifold.com kit at all. The M50manifold.com kit is only if you plan on retaining OBD-II electronics / vacuum / idle control system, and want to use an OBD-I manifold.

[rpob5t]

thank's this makes a bunch more sense; I have the whole M50 manifold and fuel rail so this shouldn't be a major issue (I hope).

off topic but is that NJMP-lightning in your sig (looks like the lightbulb corner by the sound barrier)? I like that track but it costs me money everytime I go there, broke a fuel pump the first time and the last time I scattered my m20 buy the bridge coming off T5 (driving reason behind the 24v swap :p ).

[FredK]

Oh, if you have all that stuff, you can pretty much ditch everything except the ICV. You'll probably want to get new vacuum hose, idle control, and crank case vent hoses and fittings anyway. They're cheap; I just redid the whole system for probably around $70-80.

Yes, ya got a good eye. :mrgreen: The picture was taken at the Lightbulb. I ran into fuel starvation problems when I got underneath half a tank of gas, basically right after the Lightbulb.