DOHC Radiator options

[dude8383]

the m42 radiator is horrible if you see hot temperatures, don't waste your money. i just ditched my m42 radiator w/ 70(2?)º thermostat. in 90+º weather i'd have to turn on the heater if i hit traffic... even with a 14" spal fan.

here is what i did and hopefully it helps some people... remember my engine bay is shaved so options are limited, but a lot of people like the cleaner look associated with the m42 radiator.

after cooking up a few different solutions i called zionsville, ordered just the overflow tank from this radiator - http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...ode/TYPE21.htm

i had the overflow tank shortened by 5 inches and welded it to a mishimoto e36 radiator. i changed the thermostat out to a 80º. basically i have a over sized m42 aluminum radiator that works with my shaven engine bay. after installing it i ripped the car around for a bit, parked it, let it run, and it took quite a while to start heating up, especially compared to the old setup. that was with no fan. after it started to go past the halfway mark i turned on the fan, low setting with a/c button, and it slowly started to cool the car back down.

when i get home from work i'll post up pictures of radiators side by side and new & old in the car.

total costs were roughly $700 for radiator, overflow, thermostat, welding.

Thats a pricey solution but something to consider nonetheless, thank you.

[Fusion]

I did the "double bleed" procedure I wrote about a few weeks ago and it worked damn well. Finally satisified, temps are exactly how I wanted them.

First bleed (front end slightly downhill, inside heater on full speed and full hot air) - Getting the engine warm took me a lot longer than if I was just driving the car. I don't really like the idea of revving at 2500 and just holding it there so I revved up and down between 1000-3000, massaged the upper radiator hose, and let it idle for a while before revving again. Filled coolant when needed. Pretty much each rev to 3000 meant bubbles in the exp. tank. The temperature was at 1/3 for a long time but all of a sudden it jumped to 3/4. That's when I popped the cap on and turned the engine off and just left the car like that for about three hours, when I was satisified with the engine being "cold".

Second bleed (got the front end up slightly on car ramps, heating on full) - topped up coolant, repeated the whole first process. This time it heated up faster, some more bubbles came up and when the temp rested at 1/2 I put the cap back, turned the engine off. I've ben driving in hot weather a tad under the 1/2 mark, traffic means hlafway + fan speed low. I've used fan speed high but it wasn't necessary, it barely creeps over 1/2.

I have the late model 325 "bubble" expansion tank, not sure what radiator, 80° tstat and switch.

[AlarmedBread]

You don't have to use any specific expansion tank, anything that will fit works just fine. Jegs sells many that will work for around $50. Or you could just use a pice of PVC pipe, fittings and glue. It is just a canister/tank that needs to beable to handle the pressure of the cooling system and hold a quart or three of water.

Canton makes custom aluminum tanks for around $100 a pop, but you might find something in their catalog that will fit a bit cheaper.

[Hartge_H27]

Well i have never had any problems with my M42 rad. I have driven the car on long trips and in hot weather. Oh I am also running the factory fan clutch and a supercharger.

[325Projectz]

here is the difference

[e30s50dan]

^^^ which Mishimoto is that?? and exp tank Mishimoto's?

[Justin B]

read the thread.