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    DOHC Radiator options

    My 6 month old M42 radiator just took a dump and I'm sick of dealing with flimsy plastic endtanks. In the meantime I swapped in the radiator and reservoir from the super eta. Well, obviously now there's no bleeder screw. I've read the bleeding procedure to basically be opening the reservoir cap, starting the car and holding it at 2000rpm for 20-30 seconds. The coolant level in the radiator hasn't even gotten to the fan switch's level, so basically the fan doesn't work.

    Anyway, I'm going to order an all-aluminum radiator, and I'm not sure whether to go with a Mishimoto E36 or an E30 OEM-style aluminum radiator. E36 radiators have a bleed screw, but I've heard it's rather useless.

    What priceless firsthand advice and/or insight can r3v's DOHC swap section provide? Is a useless bleed screw better than no bleed screw?
    paint sucks

    #2
    20-30 seconds? LOL. You need to get the car hot enough that the thermostat opens. You also need to raise the front end a little bit.

    Once the thermostat is open, I find it helps to occillate revs a bit to coax bubble out.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
    2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
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    1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
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    1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
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      #3
      The late model E30's (like your super eta and newer) should have the same physical radiator configuration as the E36, so the E36 Mishimoto will work just fine with the E30 coolant hoses/tank.

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        #4
        E36 Mishimoto with E36 hoses. Works great.

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          #5
          nOOb alert.. what he heck is 'Mishimoto'?

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            #6
            OEM e36 is what I have.
            Originally posted by z31maniac
            I just hate everyone.

            No need for discretion.

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              #7
              so what are all the oem options for a 24v swap radiator?
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                #8
                Originally posted by rThor432 View Post
                The late model E30's (like your super eta and newer) should have the same physical radiator configuration as the E36, so the E36 Mishimoto will work just fine with the E30 coolant hoses/tank.
                I know it will work, that's why it's on the list. The question is: is the bleeder screw on the E36 rad useful, and is the Mishimoto worth the extra $60 or so over the E30 OEM style aluminum rad?

                Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
                20-30 seconds? LOL. You need to get the car hot enough that the thermostat opens. You also need to raise the front end a little bit.

                Once the thermostat is open, I find it helps to occillate revs a bit to coax bubble out.
                I've done it every which way. Engine cold, engine hot, idling, revving, holding the revs, squeezing hoses... the radiator's half full. I can deal with it for now, but it can obviously only be temporary.
                paint sucks

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by xwill112x View Post
                  so what are all the oem options for a 24v swap radiator?
                  There's a sticky at the top of the 24V section with this information in it. M42 rad, late model E30 rad, E36 rad.
                  paint sucks

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by xwill112x View Post
                    so what are all the oem options for a 24v swap radiator?
                    Originally posted by Wh33lhop View Post
                    There's a sticky at the top of the 24V section with this information in it. M42 rad, late model E30 rad, E36 rad.
                    My understanding is these are the option. M42 cleans up the engine bay a little bit but lose capacity/cooling.

                    E36 Mishimoto seems to be the best bang. Slightly oversized. More capacity. More cooling. Lifetime warranty. No plastic.





                    Mishimoto:
                    http://www.mishimoto.com/bmw-e36-alu...tor-92-99.html

                    Search eBay or various BMW forums for the best pricing.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Quick question, the guys that are using the E36 radiator's, they don't have built in reservoir's right? You're using the the reservoir that's factory on M20's?
                      IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by dude8383 View Post
                        Quick question, the guys that are using the E36 radiator's, they don't have built in reservoir's right? You're using the the reservoir that's factory on M20's?
                        Correct. Currently I am using the old eta hosing (mostly) and it's really messy. I need to do a full flush and get the proper hoses. (I don't know what those are, but my reservoir is sorta just chilling/flopping at the moment)
                        Originally posted by z31maniac
                        I just hate everyone.

                        No need for discretion.

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                          #13
                          Factory 'late model' reservoir...

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                            #14
                            the m42 radiator is horrible if you see hot temperatures, don't waste your money. i just ditched my m42 radiator w/ 70(2?)º thermostat. in 90+º weather i'd have to turn on the heater if i hit traffic... even with a 14" spal fan.

                            here is what i did and hopefully it helps some people... remember my engine bay is shaved so options are limited, but a lot of people like the cleaner look associated with the m42 radiator.

                            after cooking up a few different solutions i called zionsville, ordered just the overflow tank from this radiator - http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...ode/TYPE21.htm

                            i had the overflow tank shortened by 5 inches and welded it to a mishimoto e36 radiator. i changed the thermostat out to a 80º. basically i have a over sized m42 aluminum radiator that works with my shaven engine bay. after installing it i ripped the car around for a bit, parked it, let it run, and it took quite a while to start heating up, especially compared to the old setup. that was with no fan. after it started to go past the halfway mark i turned on the fan, low setting with a/c button, and it slowly started to cool the car back down.

                            when i get home from work i'll post up pictures of radiators side by side and new & old in the car.

                            total costs were roughly $700 for radiator, overflow, thermostat, welding.
                            91 m3

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                              #15
                              thats good info, do you just call to order the overflow seperately?

                              Originally posted by 325Projectz View Post
                              the m42 radiator is horrible if you see hot temperatures, don't waste your money. i just ditched my m42 radiator w/ 70(2?)º thermostat. in 90+º weather i'd have to turn on the heater if i hit traffic... even with a 14" spal fan.

                              here is what i did and hopefully it helps some people... remember my engine bay is shaved so options are limited, but a lot of people like the cleaner look associated with the m42 radiator.

                              after cooking up a few different solutions i called zionsville, ordered just the overflow tank from this radiator - http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...ode/TYPE21.htm

                              i had the overflow tank shortened by 5 inches and welded it to a mishimoto e36 radiator. i changed the thermostat out to a 80º. basically i have a over sized m42 aluminum radiator that works with my shaven engine bay. after installing it i ripped the car around for a bit, parked it, let it run, and it took quite a while to start heating up, especially compared to the old setup. that was with no fan. after it started to go past the halfway mark i turned on the fan, low setting with a/c button, and it slowly started to cool the car back down.

                              when i get home from work i'll post up pictures of radiators side by side and new & old in the car.

                              total costs were roughly $700 for radiator, overflow, thermostat, welding.
                              Originally posted by FredK
                              However, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).

                              My year in Germany
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