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Vacuum prob: No Start

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    #16
    Update: Worked on it today.

    I changed the intake manifold gaskets, and the valve cover gaskets. Before I did so I did a compression test... Not Good

    150 170 155 145 110 115

    The good is I found out why it was not starting - the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the brake booster was disconnected. Once I connected it, it started right up. As for when I accelerate, some times itdies when the revs come back down. I was revving it to about 3krpm, and there was like 3-4 pops each time. I didnt understand that; there was a lot of exhaust popping. White smoke came out of the exhaust for a little time, but was clear and unseen for the rest of the time.

    While the car is idling or accelerating there is a ticking sound; I hope its not a fed up rod. I hope its just a lifter. But I doubt it. I will have a vid up by Sunday. Any words?

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      #17
      Ok, finally I got vid of the noise. Help me out... Bent valves? Rod Knock? Or just needs to be retimed?



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        #18
        Is it just the louder ticking noise I'm hearing or is there and underlying clunk as well? It almost sounds like something is clunking at a lower frequency as well as the faster ticking noise you are hearing there. The ticking I would suspect (and I am no expert at all) to be valvetrain related possibly a sticky lifter.

        '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

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          #19
          Ya, I am referring to the ticking. As for as there being an underlying ticking... I dont think there is any. What it sounds like in the video is pretty much what it sounds like in person.

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            #20
            I hope I'm wrong, but it sounds and looks like its running on 5 cylinders.
            The ticking is at valve/lifter speed, so either a crap lifter or a Nicked valve or two.

            m

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              #21
              I rather it be that than needing an entirely new engine. Judging by the compression numbers, it is probably running on 4 cyl :(. But ya, it does shake awkwardly a little. If it is bad lifters, or knicked valves, do you suppose I need a head rebuild? Is it cheaper to buy a rebuilt head or try to do it yourself?

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                #22
                Originally posted by graphikg View Post
                I rather it be that than needing an entirely new engine. Judging by the compression numbers, it is probably running on 4 cyl :(. But ya, it does shake awkwardly a little. If it is bad lifters, or knicked valves, do you suppose I need a head rebuild? Is it cheaper to buy a rebuilt head or try to do it yourself?
                Because it starts, and there IS compression in 1 and 2, you have the choice of a rebuild as the valve stems may be just slightly bent. (Meaning that the combustion chambers should be ok.)

                Personally, I would source a good used head. Check for straightness and install.
                Then I would rebuild the current head and keep for spare.
                From my point of view though, I don't prefer to reuse a BMW head that has fecked me twice.
                Once, but not twice.

                m

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