ugh, another damn no crank thread

[jackbenny]

Some of you may have followed my build thread. Today I am trying to crank the car for the first time. Problem is that when I hook up the battery, the warning lights in the cluster light up. Key isn't in the ignition. The DME is not hooked up, I just want to crank the engine for now. (and not fry the 413 if i've done something stupid. I have moved my grounds but the same result occurs. I have hooked up my power as FredK has described in many threads. I also verified that all wired at the power lug on the passenger side are in fact red and that my grounds are brown. I do have an engine ground strap and have tried two different ones.

Turning the key does not turn on the fuel pump. There is some clicking when i turn it off but i can't tell if it is the evap valve or the Idle air control valve. <edit> it's the ABS pump. If i disconnect the C101, the abs light remains on.

For completeness, here is the pinout chart I created:



My search for this problem yielded an RNeedham thread that described the same issue but no resolution. Do any of you guys have any suggestions?

<sigh> so close yet so far....:(

[jackbenny]

not to bump my own thread but here's an update.

I had the starter wire from the ignition switch attached to a ground. With that wire corrected, the car cranked no problem. With the DME hooked up, it did not start. I did not hear the fuel pump running. I jumpered the relay for the pump and the pump ran, independent of the key in the ignition. Car started right up after the fuel system was pressurized. However, the car would not turn off until I disconnected the battery and the jumped relay.

So success....sort of. Looks like I have some searching to do.

[jrdeamicis]

Well since your car starts with the fuel pump jumpered. The crank signal is good (and that means the ECU should be giving 12V to the fuel pump relay)

Sounds like the relay is bad.

[jackbenny]

Well since your car starts with the fuel pump jumpered. The crank signal is good (and that means the ECU should be giving 12V to the fuel pump relay)

Sounds like the relay is bad.

would that still make the fuel pump run without a key in the ignition but the battery hooked up?

[jrdeamicis]

Sorry I missed that detail.

Depending on how you jumpered the power for the relay, yes, it could let it be stuck on.

[jackbenny]

if i disconnect the c101 and give the battery some connection, the abs light stays on independent of the key. the flashers repeat very quickly if the hazard button is touched. i've got to be grounding the main harness somewhere i shouldn't.

[SamE30e]

It sounds like power to the relays. You probably made the same mistake that probably everyone here has. There are 2 small ring terminals that come off the harness on the battery junction side, pull back the covering, one is brown for ground, one is red and need to be hooked up to the battery junction. It powers that block of 3 relays, I know one is fuel pump and the other two are important. (DME maybe)

If thats not it, then I got nothing lol.

[jackbenny]

It sounds like power to the relays. You probably made the same mistake that probably everyone here has. There are 2 small ring terminals that come off the harness on the battery junction side, pull back the covering, one is brown for ground, one is red and need to be hooked up to the battery junction. It powers that block of 3 relays, I know one is fuel pump and the other two are important. (DME maybe)

If thats not it, then I got nothing lol.

no, i appreciate the insight. I double and triple checked the wires when i hooked it up but upon your advise, i checked again. All reds going to the battery terminal and browns going to the ground.

BUT when I was checking the fuse box, i came across two wires, a red and a green that went to an auxiliary relay holder that i removed. they were bare and guess what, they were underneath the fuse-box touching the chassis. I pulled them out and hooked up the battery and no more dash lights. so i decided to crank but I couldn't hear the fuel pump. I swapped out the relay and bang, fired right up. even better, it turned off when i switched it off.

the good news it that i did wire everything correctly and the fix was simple. But damn it was agonizing. I was pouring through the ETM and old threads trying to find a clue to what was going on and in the end it was two wires creating a short all because my dumb ass forgot about them.

Thanks for everyone's help. it sounds so damn mean and idles great, even without the o2 hooked up. The lightweight flywheel makes it rev nice too. I'll take some video and post it in my build thread tomorrow.

For now, I can sleep well. :D

[SamE30e]

No problem, congrats. Feels good doesn't it?

[RoadHazard]

I hear ya man. Sometimes it only needs a simple fix to make things work. I was troubleshooting my fuel pump yesterday. I almost disconnected the fusebox because I thought I had a bad circuit board. Turned out it was just a bad fuse which looked fine visually.

[jahnaboi]

Just to let you know, that green and red wire is a diagnostic test point for the car. Its connected to the ignition. Just cut and tape them up and stash them away. Its what I did. (Well I heat shrunk mine)

[jackbenny]

No problem, congrats. Feels good doesn't it?

absolutely

Just to let you know, that green and red wire is a diagnostic test point for the car. Its connected to the ignition. Just cut and tape them up and stash them away. Its what I did. (Well I heat shrunk mine)

thanks jasper. i'm out of heat shrink so i'll have to pick some up either later today or tomorrow as I promised the wife I would finish the nursery. I'll get it all cleaned up.

video uploaded to my project thread.