325 tanks will help fuel starvation as well, I want to do this swap too. What is the shipping price on that bitch?
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Originally posted by e304me View Post325 tanks will help fuel starvation as well, I want to do this swap too. What is the shipping price on that bitch?
Originally posted by Danny View PostDude swap the tank, fuck it. Do the subframe bushings while you're in there.
The question is...are the tanks exactly the same? The 318is pump has a return and feed all in one. IIRC the 325i/is has a feed and then a return on the left side?IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Originally posted by Danny View PostPretty sure they are the same. The 325 tank has another level sender on the drivers side. I think. Don't quote me though. Check realoem.
325i - 16111180175 - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...39&hg=16&fg=05
318i - 16111177983 - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...46&hg=16&fg=05IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Originally posted by Danny View PostYou can see the different level senders on the 325 tank, not sure about fuel return however.
The 318i/is holds 55L/14.5 gal while the 325i/is holds 63L/16.6 gal...so the shape is going to be different and it appears that the 325i tanks don't have a crossover tube at the bottom.
That in and of itself is strange because if the later 325i's came with a single pump...how was the fuel from the left side pumped to the right side where the pump resides?
I started another thread here because I haven't seen any posts attempting this...or maybe I'm just really terrible at searching!
IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Originally posted by e304me View PostNo way does the 318 tank hold over 14 gallons. I was running with the light on for like 75 miles and it only filled it with 12 gallons
55L=14.5gal
I have filled up to 13 gallons before...definitely milking it there and something I wouldn't recommend since you're starving the pump.IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Originally posted by dude8383 View PostThey are slightly different in terms of holding different capacities.
The 318i/is holds 55L/14.5 gal while the 325i/is holds 63L/16.6 gal...so the shape is going to be different and it appears that the 325i tanks don't have a crossover tube at the bottom.
That in and of itself is strange because if the later 325i's came with a single pump...how was the fuel from the left side pumped to the right side where the pump resides?
I started another thread here because I haven't seen any posts attempting this...or maybe I'm just really terrible at searching!The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostThe 55L 318 tank and the early 325 tank are the same, though the pump setup is different. The 63L 325 tank is different.The 55L liter tank uses a cross-over tube to equalize fuel levels, but the 63L tank uses a siphon in the left side to lift fuel into the right side of the tank.IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Originally posted by Danny View PostLate model 325 is 1 pump.
325i - Or...
LOL guess I just answered my own question...the 325i pump only has the feed line. I'm just confused by the difference in the two, why does the 318is one have a return pipe? Would the line just be shorter and attach on the left side of the 325i tank?
IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Bumping this back up.
Tank has been replaced with a standard 14.5 gallon tank, decided not to fuck with the factory setup.
Yesterday buttoned everything up, on ignition pump turned on and started.
Car ran for approximately 10min and just died. Wouldn't start back up until I swapped back to old ECU and then had to swap in another fuel relay. Let it idle for about 10min again but it didn't shutdown.
This evening, inspected everything under the car, lowered it go to start the car and bam fucking thing does NOT want to start.
On ignition I heard the pump go on briefly and then cut out immediately.
Back track a bit, yesterday to check the symptoms I pulled the power to the fuel pump and the car gradually died. So this leads me to believe that it is not the actual source of the problem. Seems like some sort of electrical cut out almost as if EWS is enabled but it has a chip that cancels that out. I have been driving with that chip since October 09...
I'm kind of at a loss here :( I feel like I just replaced everything for no reason.
Still getting that check engine code and on ignition the voltmeter is showing 11v. Battery is nearly drained but I'm using a booster attached to the battery to try and start it up.
Any advice on another approach?IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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