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Easiest way to remove oil pan once swap is finished?

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    Easiest way to remove oil pan once swap is finished?

    Hey guys, it has been a little while since I have finished my swap, but I havent gotten around to finishing the exhaust. Since it is loud as shit I havent drove it much. I noticed a decent amount of oil sitting under my car. It seems to be coming out of where the trans meets up with the motor. I replaced my rear main seal, and since the car hasnt been driven I dont think it is that. I think it is the oil pan since I decided not to use a gasket and stuck with copper gasket.

    I need to remove it and do it right. What is the easiest way? Hoisting the motor up and removing the subframe? Then the pan should be a breeze?

    #2
    Get the engine leveler or whatever they call it. It goes into the little rain channels on top of your fenders and it holds the engine up. Or you could loosen the mounts get a cherry picker and pick the engine up enough to where you can take the oilpan off and do it that way.

    this is the support i was talkin about

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      #3
      Best way to fix it is to get the tool above to hold the engine up.
      Take the bolt out of the steering shaft.
      pull all 4 bolts out of the subframe and drop it down.
      Then pull pan.

      Comment


        #4
        Perfect, I have that tool and that's what I wa thinking. Is it a bitch to get the subframe off?

        Comment


          #5
          Nice mike. You know I've got to do this to. Sux

          Originally posted by Roysneon
          $5 shipped?
          Originally posted by MarkD
          You are a strange dude, I'n not answering any more posts from you.

          Comment


            #6
            Yeah, I just did mine last week. Best thing to do is to use a little gasket sealer on the pan and then put the gasket on. Put all the bolts in the pan so it holds the gasket where it needs to be while the sealer sets up. This way when you go to put the pan on, you dont have the gasket sliding all over the place.

            If your running the 260 trans, your pretty much fucked. You need to remove the trans to get the back two bolts, if your running the M20 flywheel your gonna need to remove the clutch and flywheel setup.

            Comment


              #7
              the subframe is not hard..like they said >>on the steering couple,unbolt,and stick a small screwdriver in there to spread the teeth,or you will be fighting the whole subframe..that bitch wont let go as long as the coupler is even slightly squeezed on the teeth
              NASA
              BMWCCA member
              PCA member 25yrs




              1991 318IS slick top
              1997 M3 sedan
              2001 325CI DD

              “whoever turns the wheel the least, wins"

              Comment


                #8
                I have a g250 and the stock clutch and flywheel, so It should just come off.

                Does my diagnosis seem correct to you guys?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by White325is View Post
                  If your running the 260 trans, your pretty much fucked. You need to remove the trans to get the back two bolts, if your running the M20 flywheel your gonna need to remove the clutch and flywheel setup.
                  I'm running a M20 flywheel with a G240 (has the acess holes), and you can get to the rear bolts just fine.
                  1985 325e 2.8 Turbo VEMS

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by SamE30e View Post
                    I'm running a M20 flywheel with a G240 (has the acess holes), and you can get to the rear bolts just fine.
                    Cab a 260 be modified to have external access?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Cab a 260 be modified to have external access?
                      yes it could be, but im not sure about the flywheel/clutch issue that white325is mentions...


                      I ran into this very same problem, after a few cuss words i ended up pulling everything out... and upgraded to a zf320 :p


                      Full Build Thread Here

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by SamE30e View Post
                        I'm running a M20 flywheel with a G240 (has the acess holes), and you can get to the rear bolts just fine.
                        Maybe you didnt read. IF YOU ARE RUNNING A 260! Not a 240. ;)
                        And you must have shaved alot off your flywheel because mine needed to be removed.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by White325is View Post
                          Maybe you didnt read. IF YOU ARE RUNNING A 260! Not a 240. ;)
                          And you must have shaved alot off your flywheel because mine needed to be removed.
                          I don't see how the transmission would affect the distance from the flywheel to the block.

                          The only difference between a G260 and G240 in this case would be the access holes.
                          1985 325e 2.8 Turbo VEMS

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If your running the 260 trans, your pretty much fucked. You need to remove the trans to get the back two bolts


                            Im running a M20 flywheel on my swap. I NEEDED to remove the flywheel to get the back two bolts on my oil pan. I even had my flywheel shaved down to clear them just like it says in every thread on here and still not enough room to get on them with the socket. Speaking from experience here bud, not feeding bs for no reason.

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