Oil Pump Nut Picture...

[shiboujin]

Dammit. You suck! lol. Yoshi told me about the kit they made...

[ieatpeople]

with a weld you ensure no movement at all with the safety wire it seems like it could have a little bit of back and forth play, plus if it were to fail you have safety wire everywhere...and by drinking through the nut you are theoretically lowering the rigidity of it.

and viet though ive never done it before it seems like your right it just goes through the nut based on pics

if you buy the correct nut, then it is already drilled from the manufacturer. they are specially designed to be used this way. they are actually stronger than grade 8 hardware. believe me, we use them at my work, they never fail. if NASA says they're good enough, i trust them.

[Adrian_Visser]

if NASA says they're good enough, i trust them.

This.

Stainless steel lockwire is the preferred method of securing many critical fasteners in the aerospace industry. I use it everyday, that shit is strong.

The whole point of a properly done lockwire twist is that is is constantly pulling the fastener tight, no movement allowed.


If you would rather weld the nut on there and not be able to remove it ever go ahead it just seems like a dumb idea to me.

[etxxz]

you don't ever need to remove it unless you want to rebuild the oil pump.. which IMO, i'd rather just get a reman one... i've never seen a rebuild kit anyways and if it fails so does your whole motor probably. You can even remove the whole pump with the chain still on the camshaft sprocket. Its free (bzzzzzzzT!), that was a big +

[e46s54dr]

you don't ever need to remove it unless you want to rebuild the oil pump.. which IMO, i'd rather just get a reman one... i've never seen a rebuild kit anyways and if it fails so does your whole motor probably. You can even remove the whole pump with the chain still on the camshaft sprocket. Its free (bzzzzzzzT!), that was a big +

This^
You never really need to remove the oil pump sprocket unless you plan on changing the sprocket or rebuilding the pump. But by the time the sprocket is worn or the pump needs to be rebuilt I'd much rather by a new one and weld of again. Some people argue that it's easier to safety wire the pump nut but realistically it's easier and cheaper to get it welded then to properly safety wiring it with the stainless wire.

[BMW_TUNER]

Weld !!!!!!!!!!!. I lost a fresh S50 beacause the oil got thin and the pump cavitated and shook which vibrated the nut against the wire and sheared it off. Took the engine apart and the nut was in the and the oil pump was Fucked. The pump machined itself internaly. New Oil Pump with new gear and nut that was then welded on three points that make it nearly impossible to fail a Reground crank new bearings- Oversized- Full bottom wnd rebuild and new Head Gasket and I was back on the road.

[bejbis]

Weld !!!!!!!!!!!. I lost a fresh S50 beacause the oil got thin and the pump cavitated and shook which vibrated the nut against the wire and sheared it off. Took the engine apart and the nut was in the and the oil pump was Fucked. The pump machined itself internaly. New Oil Pump with new gear and nut that was then welded on three points that make it nearly impossible to fail a Reground crank new bearings- Oversized- Full bottom wnd rebuild and new Head Gasket and I was back on the road.

Sounds like your base problem wasn't the oil pump safety wired nut, a properly safety wired fastener should never have a problem.

[BMW_TUNER]

It is all my machine shop could figure as I had just had the crank spun and polished, I had all new tensioners, all fresh bearings, the nut was torqued to spec and then drilled and wired as seen in your pic. The machine shop also stated that speed wiring could have created the imbalance itself by adding weight to one side of the gear. Any way you slice it the gears and nuts are cheap so welding is the way to go. I can also spread the weight out with three welds as to not weight the gear.

[flyboyx]

Sounds like your base problem wasn't the oil pump safety wired nut, a properly safety wired fastener should never have a problem.

that is a pretty safety wire job. this one is indeed how it should look except the wire should technically end at the closest point where it is secured between the holes.

Weld !!!!!!!!!!!. I lost a fresh S50 beacause the oil got thin and the pump cavitated and shook which vibrated the nut against the wire and sheared it off. Took the engine apart and the nut was in the and the oil pump was Fucked. The pump machined itself internaly. New Oil Pump with new gear and nut that was then welded on three points that make it nearly impossible to fail a Reground crank new bearings- Oversized- Full bottom wnd rebuild and new Head Gasket and I was back on the road.

hmmm...... i am having a bit of difficulty understanding what you are saying here? how did the oil pump machine itself internally?

i was thinking you said your motor failed because your tune was bad and dumping too much gas in your engine? did all this stuff actually happen at the same time?

[dinanm3atl]

I used BW kit.

[wobbie]

is this only if your replacing your oil pump or do you have to do this if your putting the e34 sump pump and changing the pan from a e36 to a e34?

[Adrian_Visser]

Backing off of the oil pump nut is a known problem on 24v engines, one with usually catastrophic results, it is more common on engines that see track time and heavy high RPM use.

If it isn't done on your engine do it while you have the oil pan off. You take your pick on what way you use, safety wired with stainless lock wire (the proper stuff would be 0.032" dia. stainless conforming to Mil-Spec 20995) or welded, you could also use red loc-tite. but it seems like the least trustworthy of the options.