Help: M50 Cranks But Won't Turn Over
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what was the problem? I have fuel and spark, just not sure if my tank pressure is high enough... -
Car ever have an alarm on it? Could be an issue of a secondary EWS issue.Leave a comment:
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I had no resistance on either DME. But come to think of it, I did have the cover off of both of them. Should that matter? I was getting resistance from other pins, just not 16+ and 43-.
Could it be the chip? I'm using the same bav auto chip in both DMEs.Leave a comment:
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check the resistance between Pins 43(-) and 16(+) on your DME, it should read around 600 ohms. I had a similar problem, i swapped out DMEs and now she is running.Leave a comment:
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I checked a few more things, and this is what I know so far: Pin 13 gets no power, and I can jump the relay to turn the fuel pump on. Pin 7 (DME power) gets power when the ignition is turned on. Assuming the relays are good, Pin 13 getting no power means the ECU is not sending it right? Both crank and cam position sensors are good, and I've swapped out relays, so that leads me to believe that the ECU is bad. Does this sound logical to you?
Thanks Robert, but I don't have pin 7 on the x20 hooked up, and pin 15 is needed for the starter in my case.Sounds a lot like the problem I had years ago with my first swap...
Solution was posted on the next to last page though I'm not sure if your car would suffer from the same issue.

One of the wires connected to the power block is redundant: I have two running from the fuse box, one from the starter, and one from the harness. The extra one is running from the wire that connects to the starter (it splits off). I was told there is no use for this one, so I just attached it to the block assuming no harm no foul. Hopefully I'm wrong on this one.
Does anyone have a pic of their power distribution block?
I went and checked today and I found that all red wires get a constant 12v, and all red wires w/ white stripes only get power when the ignition is turned on. I was lead to understand that this is what is supposed to be happening.Leave a comment:
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do you have your charcoal canister hooked up properly? The last picture you posted....the one where you said you had no idea how it's connected....
There should be a evap line coming near the fuel/return that then connects to that little check valve. The check valve connects to the charcoal canister and the charcoal canister connects to the intake manifold.
If you hooked the checkvalve directly to the manifold or capped it then the tank will go under vacuum and will fight against the fuel pump.
I made this mistake having deleted the check valve and it would crank, injectors actuated, but would get no fuel to let it turn over.
I left the evap line open to atmosphere and blocked the port on the intake manifold with a little rubber cap and clamp. little valve remains plugged into the harness
i really hope this helps, as it frustrated me for hours.Leave a comment:
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Sounds a lot like the problem I had years ago with my first swap...
Solution was posted on the next to last page though I'm not sure if your car would suffer from the same issue.Leave a comment:
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Im guessing you have a mixup on one of your wires and its potentially not getting the ECU to get power. When i did my swap i just bought a connector, so i cant actually help with that as im not familiar, but i really feel your problem is somewhere in that bundle of wiresLeave a comment:
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What fuel rail are you using? Does it have the pressure regulator on it?Leave a comment:
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yes it does, I did actually the same.
I think you can check the quality of the ground by measuring between the chassis and the brown wire (pin 30 or 87 i think) on the white relay.
Does the white relay comes on if you put the key in ignition stand? that's the start of everything..Leave a comment:



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