Another brake booster question

[Roysneon]

I already bought a Porsche 924 booster (supposed to be same as 944) for my eventual swap, but cutting/welding the rod has me kinda sketched out.

Is it true that the e32 booster and MC don't need the rod modified? I found someone parting a 735 iL locally and can get the master and booster for $70, might be able to low ball him for $50 if I remove them. I already bought the Porsche part but if it means doing it the right way first I'm not against spending money twice.

I plan on using e36 M3 5 lug/brakes too if that makes a difference.

[MR 325]

Yes it's true, the E32 setup is great! Only catch is you need to remote mount the reservoir.

[Roysneon]

Is it already a remote mounted system or do I have to find something to use for a reservoir?

[samiam3356]

34 32 1 112 399 reservoir 1x
21 52 1 163 714 hose 1x
34 32 1 102 282 connector 2x
34 31 1 121 911 connector grommets 2x

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Brake-Fluid-Hose-Reservoir-to-Brake-Master-or-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-%28Per-Meter%29-__21521163714_CON_1FAEF62B.aspx

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Brake-Fluid-Reservoir-for-Manual-Transmission-__34321112399_ATE_10902E10.aspx

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Grommet-Brake-Master-Cylinder-to-Reservoir-__34311121911_ATE_10902E10.aspx

I think this will work for you

[herlsy]

Use the 944 booster, you don't have to weld anything. Just run an m10x1.5 die down to the very end, measure, cut. Simple and you don't have to mess with remote res.

[Jand3rson]

Use the 944 booster, you don't have to weld anything. Just run an m10x1.5 die down to the very end, measure, cut. Simple and you don't have to mess with remote res.

This is the best way to go, if you can get one. I just got one on Craigslist last night for $30.

[JdmEuroNorth]

34 32 1 112 399 reservoir 1x
21 52 1 163 714 hose 1x
34 32 1 102 282 connector 2x
34 31 1 121 911 connector grommets 2x

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Brake-Fluid-Hose-Reservoir-to-Brake-Master-or-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-%28Per-Meter%29-__21521163714_CON_1FAEF62B.aspx

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Brake-Fluid-Reservoir-for-Manual-Transmission-__34321112399_ATE_10902E10.aspx

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Grommet-Brake-Master-Cylinder-to-Reservoir-__34311121911_ATE_10902E10.aspx

I think this will work for you

Now what about the connector that goes from the line and fits into the grommet that you also posted?

[e30s50dan]

924 944 951 the boosters should all be the same. Btw I'm running IX booster E34 mc and res. Luv it!

[Jand3rson]

Use the 944 booster, you don't have to weld anything. Just run an m10x1.5 die down to the very end, measure, cut. Simple and you don't have to mess with remote res.

Quick verification on this, would someone mind clarifying which part exactly you die and measure/cut down? It's the rod that goes through the firewall and connects to the bracket that connects to your brake pedal arm, correct?

[FredK]

It's the rod that goes through the firewall and connects to the bracket that connects to your brake pedal arm, correct?

Exactly. You cut and thread the booster input rod.

[B3M2W5]

I went with an IX booster and a 25mm master cyl.
I went to true value and got 2 90deg nylon gromets that fit into the master cyl and ran some hose and secured the stock res up a bit and works fine no moding the booster and the 25mm master makes you brakes much firmer
VERY NICE

[Jand3rson]

Exactly. You cut and thread the booster input rod.

Is that something I do myself, or do I need to have a machine shop or something do that? The part where the threads end on the input rod is quite a bit larger in diameter than the threaded part. Forgive my ignorance, I've never actually had to do something like that!

[Gnarles]

Is that something I do myself, or do I need to have a machine shop or something do that? The part where the threads end on the input rod is quite a bit larger in diameter than the threaded part. Forgive my ignorance, I've never actually had to do something like that!

I'm guessing you have the Girling 944 booster. You ideally want the ATE brand because it is the same diameter (10mm) down the entire length of the input rod. The Girling input rod is larger in diameter below the threaded portion and you will have the grind it down somehow before you can run the die over it.

The Girling booster will still work fine for your swap, it just takes a little more effort than with the ATE.

[Jand3rson]

It's an ATE, not a Girling. That shouldn't be a problem at all. I can pull the input rod out of the booster to do this work, correct?

[MR 325]

I went with an IX booster and a 25mm master cyl.
I went to true value and got 2 90deg nylon gromets that fit into the master cyl and ran some hose and secured the stock res up a bit and works fine no moding the booster and the 25mm master makes you brakes much firmer
VERY NICE

You should be using hose specifically designed to handle brake fluid. I personally run the OEM BMW blue cloth hose.