Another brake booster question

[Gnarles]

It's an ATE, not a Girling. That shouldn't be a problem at all. I can pull the input rod out of the booster to do this work, correct?

Hmmm, maybe it's a certain year range that has the flared input rod? I'm not sure if you can remove the input rod, I did the mods to it with it attached to the booster. Good luck!

[FredK]

If it has a flared input rod, you can die it down to M12x1.5mm first, carefully file the threads flat, then use the M10x1.5mm die on it.

[Jand3rson]

We're not even going to bother with that. We started by cutting the rod off of the 944 booster, and we were going to chop out a section, thread it down a bit more, and then weld it back together. So we've got the threaded part in the lathe, turning it down so I could buy a die and thread it down farther, and Andrew realizes "aren't we just making a M10x1.5 bolt?"

So tomorrow, I'm going to go buy an M10x1.5 bolt, and we're just going to weld it onto the end of the input rod that we cut off.

[FredK]

Welding works too. It's probably the fastest way. Just set the weld joint up for good penetration by chamfering both sides of the rod and bolt.

[BMW_TUNER]

Having welded one I have one tip. Soak a shop towel in water and leave it wrapped around the shaft as close to the booster as possible. Its cheap ins. over what happened to a friends booster (leaky Leaky).

[StereoInstaller1]

This is the best way to go, if you can get one. I just got one on Craigslist last night for $30.

bastard

[green]

What about moving the stock booster 1/2" away?

[Jand3rson]

You can do that, and people have. Part of the reason I wanted the 944 is because it's smaller, looks a little better in the engine bay and has the same power as the stock one. And it was dirt cheap.

[87e30]

Josh,

It's pretty easy to step down the the booster rod with a die. Personally I stepped it to 7/16ths I think and then enlarged the clevis just slightly.

I went to a machine shop and a welder and spent a couple days dealing with the problem... when in the end I just did it myself in my garage with a 15 dollar tap and die.

[10-66kruk]

http://www.chasebaysonline.com/

Now I don't fully know if this will work. But it's quite interesting it's the brake booster eliminator kit....I'll understand if I get flames for it but it does look pretty sick.

[Massive Lee]

^^^The topic is about swapping boosters. Not removing it and fitting an MC directly on the firewall. Your link simply shows a square plate with holes. Which is also a method people have successfully done here. But nothing comes for free. You'll have to compensate somewhere for the lack of assist.

[Jand3rson]

Josh,

It's pretty easy to step down the the booster rod with a die. Personally I stepped it to 7/16ths I think and then enlarged the clevis just slightly.

I went to a machine shop and a welder and spent a couple days dealing with the problem... when in the end I just did it myself in my garage with a 15 dollar tap and die.

Yeah, it ended up taking us collectively about a half hour of time and 30 minutes to cut the rod off and weld on an M10x1.5 bolt.

[Xaq]

hmm, I fitted a 924 booster and only had to cut off about 3/8" of threads. that's it.

[Jand3rson]

So when you bolt the booster rod back up to the brake pedal arm, you want the brake pedal arm extended all the way out, right?

[FredK]

Yes, you preload it such that it hits the brake light switch.