take a look in my build thread. about page 14 I have a DIy for that kit.
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SPAL fan wiring/relay kit question
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Originally posted by bimmerteck View PostYou can leave the thermo switch wired via the car's harness and use the stock aux fan wiring as long as your new fan pulls less amps than the e30's OE aux fan.(many newer fans do) then remove the harness from the stock aux fan (cut close to the motor where there are only 2 wires, these are the 2 wires that will connect to you new fan just like the stock aux fan originally was. be sure to verify the polarity.(brown is ground on the BMW harness) I outlined it in my build thread below, and can take more pictures if you need it.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=134232&page=4
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Originally posted by bimmerteck View PostYep, I changed out the fan to a more efficient modern design and the switch in the radiator. Kept functioning A/C and eliminated the need for a mechanical fan all together. The Spal fans moves more air while pulling less amps.1990 S50 goodness.
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Originally posted by CincinnatiKid View PostWhat brackets did you mount the fan in front of the a/c condenser with?
I carefully cut off the stock fan brackets with a cut off wheel, then I used the metal and brackets that came with the spal fan and drilled holes into the baseplate of the condenser being careful to avoid where the rubber isolators contact the bottom of the condenser. (the rubbed clean spots) the top is mounted in the same fashion.
Photo by systemdelete, on Flickr
Photo by systemdelete, on Flickr
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Originally posted by bimmerteck View PostYou can leave the thermo switch wired via the car's harness and use the stock aux fan wiring as long as your new fan pulls less amps than the e30's OE aux fan.(many newer fans do) then remove the harness from the stock aux fan (cut close to the motor where there are only 2 wires, these are the 2 wires that will connect to you new fan just like the stock aux fan originally was. be sure to verify the polarity.(brown is ground on the BMW harness) I outlined it in my build thread below, and can take more pictures if you need it.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=134232&page=4Last edited by giantkeeper; 05-02-2011, 07:40 AM.Originally posted by blunttechAlways Always go for the reach around if there is an option
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Originally posted by giantkeeper View PostSo you simply connected the two harness side wires (where they are closest to the fan) with the two wires from the spal and leaving the stock resistor (?) in place.....this still allows for multi speed functionality?
You just need to be sure the replacement fan draws less amps than the stock fan, and that the stock components are in working order.
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Originally posted by bimmerteck View PostYes, the factory control if functioning will treat the spal fan exactly the same as it did the stock fan running it on low/high dependent on the temp switch in the radiator/AC status.
You just need to be sure the replacement fan draws less amps than the stock fan, and that the stock components are in working order.Originally posted by blunttechAlways Always go for the reach around if there is an option
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Originally posted by giantkeeper View PostOk, thanks - I am running a 16" low pro Spal pusher. I'd expect it would be lower amperage. I am also going to go with the 80/88 temp switch as well. I will not be running AC
I've found the 91/99 degree e36 temp switch with an 88 degree thermostat to be a good combo for street driven vehicles. Almost all of the fans Spal manufactures draw less current than the stock e30 fans so you should be good there.
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Originally posted by bimmerteck View PostI've found the 91/99 degree e36 temp switch with an 88 degree thermostat to be a good combo for street driven vehicles. Almost all of the fans Spal manufactures draw less current than the stock e30 fans so you should be good there.Originally posted by blunttechAlways Always go for the reach around if there is an option
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