S52/ZF UUC LTW Flywheel E34 OEM Clutch won't disengage

[e30rapidic]

where did you put this? between the crank and flywheel? or somewhere else??




***edit*** I see this is where you put your spacer

[hammslice]

I thought that was to protect the flywheel against marring from the bolts... If its supposed to be between the crank and the flywheel, that would give me the couple of mils that should make a difference.

[e30rapidic]

I thought that was to protect the flywheel against marring from the bolts... If its supposed to be between the crank and the flywheel, that would give me the couple of mils that should make a difference.

i typed wrong and you caught it before I edited!

[gobuffs]

Seems like some piece you have is wrong. Either the clutch or the PP.

[hammslice]

Seems like some piece you have is wrong. Either the clutch or the PP.

I confirmed all part numbers with Rob@UUC.

[gobuffs]

Send it all back, buy something non blue.

[JTapper]

Splines also look dry. Throw some grease on that bitch.

[e46s54dr]

Splines also look dry. Throw some grease on that bitch.

Yeah, definitely try cleaning the trans input shaft splines and slap some anti seize on there. Make sure the friction plates slides freely with any binding. This may or not be your problem but it is definitely something that needs to be done either way.

P.s. Hows the condition of the little nub that acts as a pivot point on the opposite side of the slave cylinder on the clutch fork? Your problem is either a manufacture defect/clearance issue, or you arent getting enough travel to fully disengage the clutch and flywheel.

You are using the correct throwout bearing supplied in the kit correct? And the transmission is sitting flush with the back of the block before you torque it down too right? I ask becase sometimes the sandwhich plate between the block and trans slips out of alignment and covers up one of the alignment pin holes.

Good luck and hope you resolve it asap.

[Wanganstyle]

do you have a oem S52 clutch/fly setup you could install to try? would be nice to have a known to base all your variables off of.

[nrubenstein]

Where did you get your ZF320 from? Mine came from an E46 328, and the clutch fork used in those is NOT the same and will NOT allow you to fully disengage the clutch. In fact, I had the exact same symptoms as you currently have.

[hammslice]

Last time I was in I replaced everything. Clutch master and slave first, got a good bleed using reverse fluid injection method. Still did not resolve. Next I ordered a new clutch kit from pelican. The parts arrived and were all the same except the clutch disc. It was visibly different and had a different part number.

From UUC: Sachs PN 1861931034



From Pelican: Sachs PN 187005620



The PP clutch did not have double springs and the center area around the hub was noticeably thinner. I can only assume that with the pedal fully depressed that the fins of the pressure plate were contacting this thicker area. I’m unsure if the original clutch disc was the wrong part or just out of spec. At this point all that matters is that the car goes and goes well. I got to have some fun with it before I had to head back overseas. Lots more to go but at least this hurdle is passed. Thanks for everyone's ideas. Sorry for those that suggested these new parts earlier but my wallet didn't want that to be the fix!