No Fuel

[SwiftE30]

Ok, the fuel pump is based on crank signal. It wont turn it on until it sees solid crank.

First.
Do you have a check engine light? - If no, (because you havent wired it) - wire it.
If yes - Is it on when in the run position?
Second
Do you have an ETM, OBD1 should have a VR sensor on the crank. Read for mV while cranking by back probing your X6000 connector.

i do have check engine light, and no it is not on in the run position. i'll try and back probe tomorrow. project might have to be put on hold, i have to run to portland for a job tomorrow morning.

Do you have 30 power at the relay? Unless your wiring to the pump is damaged or wired incorrectly, it sounds like a fuel pump. Jumping 30 and 87 will run the pump no matter what position the key is in or whether or not the DME sees engine cranking. Do you have a volt meter or a test light handy?

i jumped 30 and 87 and there was no change. the wiring to the pump has not been changed or messed with at all. it worked fine before i pulled the m20.

[Zba]

Do you have a volt meter? If not you need to get one. It's damn near impossible to diagnose electrical issues without one. You need to get to the connector at the fuel pump itself, find out which pins are power and ground for the pump, and check for battery voltage across the two wires with the pump disconnected and the relay jumped. If you have battery voltage, your pump is bad. If you have no voltage, you need to find the cause.

Are you using a different engine harness? Is the relay panel part of the new harness? Are you positive the relays are in the correct positions for the new harness?

[Zba]

it is definitly from the e30 fuse box. i just had my brother come out and listen with me.



i can also for sure here the relays clicking with the key turning to on position. the second click comes when i try and turn the engine over. i had it cranking over before with no fuel, I didnt change a thing, and then it stopped trying to crank. i did notice a small amount of smoke coming from the starter though which worries me.

You also need a starter, if the battery voltage is good with your newly purchased voltmeter.

[jrdeamicis]

Verify your CEL wiring. If you are not getting your CEL in RUN then your ECU is not on. Verify all wiring through your adapter AND at the distribution block.

[SwiftE30]

Verify your CEL wiring. If you are not getting your CEL in RUN then your ECU is not on. Verify all wiring through your adapter AND at the distribution block.

Do you have a volt meter? If not you need to get one. It's damn near impossible to diagnose electrical issues without one. You need to get to the connector at the fuel pump itself, find out which pins are power and ground for the pump, and check for battery voltage across the two wires with the pump disconnected and the relay jumped. If you have battery voltage, your pump is bad. If you have no voltage, you need to find the cause.

Are you using a different engine harness? Is the relay panel part of the new harness? Are you positive the relays are in the correct positions for the new harness?

the relays are a part of the new harness. i never changed the relays from when i got the harness, i replaced the fuel pump relay too.

so i've checked out my wiring. i used an m50 harness from 95 325is automatic (i'm not sure if these have EWS or not) and looking though pinout charts the fuel pump relay is a green/violet wire. I also used a c101 male plug from an 89 325 i. My car is a 325i convertible. should this make a difference with the colors? I'm thinking it does because according to the pinout charts the fuel pump relay is pin 13 on the x20 side and c101 side. On my c101 chassis plug side, my pin 13 is a large gauge violet/red wire. i was unable to find this in the ETM's. i dont know if i missed it, but i looked a few times.

i also checked the wires at the fuel pump, there are two connections, a two pin, with colors green/violet and brown. and a three pin with colors brown/grey, a brown/green, and a brown.

I found green/violet wire from fuel pump going into fuse 11 at the fuse box.


what pin connection would cause the ECU to not be on? I checked my CEL wiring and it matched up.

[SwiftE30]

So i dont know what happened but im assuming this is the root of all my problems i thought i had wired the harness correctly but after reading people said that the AKG pinout chart is wrong. I think the person that sold me my male c101 plug lied when he said it was from an 89 325i.

here are the colors for each pin on the male c101 plug and the colors for the femal c101 plug

male plug--> Female plug
1: BL --> BL
2: GN/YL --> BL/BK
3:---
4: BR/VI --> BR/VI
5: BR/GN -->BK/BR
6: GN/WT -->GN/YL
7: GN ---> GN
8: WT/BK --> YL/WT
9: BK ----> BK
10: BL ---> VI/GN
11: WT/GN -->WT/BL
12: GREY --->BR/BK
13: GN/VI -->VI/RD
14: BK/WT --> BL/YL
15: BK/GN -->BK/GN
16: WT/BK -->WT/BK
17:--
18: BK/YL-->BK/YL
19:--
20:--

Obviously a bunch of these are not the same colors for the pins. Which leads me to believe the male c101 plug i bought from the guy is not from an 1989 325i. The female plug has not been messed with, original one from the car.

should i follow the colors on the female plug to reference the ETM's and just match them up to the pin numbers on the male plug? then make sure the pin #'s are right from the female plug to the m50 harness? basically skipping the colors on the male plug i bought?

Im getting super confused with this whole thing. And finding this out threw me for a loop. Any help is greatly appreciated. thanks

[cmybimmer]

I followed the AKG wiring and it works fine with mine. I have an 89 325i

[SwiftE30]

I followed the AKG wiring and it works fine with mine. I have an 89 325i

did you make an adapter or wire in a c101 male plug to the m50 harness?

[cmybimmer]

Made an adapter, didnt want to cut wires on either of the harnesses lol
Oh and btw, my wires from the c101 to the e36 harness were for the most part similar. The pin #'s were different obviously but the wire colors were basically the same. Idk if its different for the vert



And just to make sure, I followed the diagram on the bottom of this page: http://www.akgmotorsport.com/e30convpins.html

I feel your pain tho, I checked over my adapter countless amount of times, but it is def worth it. Cant be too sure. In my case, it was a matter of the ECu not being properly grounded. Dont give up :up:

[SwiftE30]

Made an adapter, didnt want to cut wires on either of the harnesses lol
Oh and btw, my wires from the c101 to the e36 harness were for the most part similar. The pin #'s were different obviously but the wire colors were basically the same. Idk if its different for the vert



And just to make sure, I followed the diagram on the bottom of this page: http://www.akgmotorsport.com/e30convpins.html

I feel your pain tho, I checked over my adapter countless amount of times, but it is def worth it. Cant be too sure. In my case, it was a matter of the ECu not being properly grounded. Dont give up :up:

yeah the wires from my male c101 plug to the m50 harness were pretty much all the same colors matching up. its the colors from the male plug to the female plug (from the fuse box) that are different. oh and my mistake, im thinking the akg chart is right, i just completely messed up by not checking the color changes from the male to the female plug. i think i am going to go back through the x20 and c101 and follow the akg chart, making sure the pins from female c101 are wired correctly to the wires on the harness. basically F'ing the colors with the male c101.

So your fuel problem ended up being your ECU not being grounded?

[cmybimmer]

Oh, so you're saying you have the wrong e30 side harness for the adapter?

And yeah, my ecu wasn't grounded properly. Also ended up changing my engine harness because mine was pretty beat from the PO and had many cut/spliced wires I didnt feel too comfortable with. I think that helped, because afterwards my CEL turned on w the keys in the ON position.

[SwiftE30]

yeah. the colors and pins matched up from the m50 to the male c101, but after looking at the pins and #'s on the e30 fuse box c101 plug, all the colors are completely different. never seen this problem before. i think if i follow the akg chart i should be able to get it. and im also thinking that i might have read some of the ETM wrong when looking at the e30.

Ive also never read of someone having a VI/RD (coming from the fuse box) wire for pin 13, fuel pump relay. it is even about twice the size gauge.

was your ECU just sitting in the glove box? i mounted mine where the m20 ECU was. and isnt it also supposed to be grounded by the harness/shock tower mount?

[cmybimmer]

yeah. the colors and pins matched up from the m50 to the male c101, but after looking at the pins and #'s on the e30 fuse box c101 plug, all the colors are completely different. never seen this problem before. i think if i follow the akg chart i should be able to get it. and im also thinking that i might have read some of the ETM wrong when looking at the e30.

Ive also never read of someone having a VI/RD (coming from the fuse box) wire for pin 13, fuel pump relay. it is even about twice the size gauge.

was your ECU just sitting in the glove box? i mounted mine where the m20 ECU was. and isnt it also supposed to be grounded by the harness/shock tower mount?

If I were you, i'd just get another e30 motor side harness with the same wire colors to make it easier on yourself.

And for a while I had the ECU just chillin on the passenger carpet, then found out I need to ground it. I moved to to the engine bay, just sitting by the tower thinking the body was giving it ground, but I was def wrong on that. I took out one of the torx bolts on the ecu, tightened a speaker wire to it, and the other end to the strut tower bolt and that did the trick. Since then, I moved it to the regular spot, but still did the wire thing just to make sure its making good contact. Did the job for me lol

[SwiftE30]

If I were you, i'd just get another e30 motor side harness with the same wire colors to make it easier on yourself.

And for a while I had the ECU just chillin on the passenger carpet, then found out I need to ground it. I moved to to the engine bay, just sitting by the tower thinking the body was giving it ground, but I was def wrong on that. I took out one of the torx bolts on the ecu, tightened a speaker wire to it, and the other end to the strut tower bolt and that did the trick. Since then, I moved it to the regular spot, but still did the wire thing just to make sure its making good contact. Did the job for me lol

get another male c101 plug and rewire it to the m50 harness? at this point i think i can figure it out with the color schematic i just made but matching up the correct colors from the e30 chassis side to the m50 harness. it took me forever to find the c101 plug that i did, and ive actually been searching the junk yards non-stop to try and find another one but always comming up empty. no e30's at the yards at all.

and i think after rewiring everythink i am going to do the same for grounding the ECU. better safe then sorry i guess.

[cmybimmer]

get another male c101 plug and rewire it to the m50 harness? at this point i think i can figure it out with the color schematic i just made but matching up the correct colors from the e30 chassis side to the m50 harness. it took me forever to find the c101 plug that i did, and ive actually been searching the junk yards non-stop to try and find another one but always comming up empty. no e30's at the yards at all.

and i think after rewiring everythink i am going to do the same for grounding the ECU. better safe then sorry i guess.

Damn, we have lots of them out here haha. But yeah, I guess it would work if you just match pin # to pin # from the e30 chassis side to the m50 harness. I would imagine it taking a lot of time though.

Its always something stupid that stalls us the last couple steps. But would be worth the pain in the end