Help! M50nv Not running right.... at all.

[Vtec?lol]

Great info. So I should check pin 16 for switched power?

we changed all the spark plugs and got it to start with the throttle partially open but after a good 5 seconds it went right back to shout and started to hear clunks in the intake.

If I could figure a way to stomp test I would be golden.

[Vtec?lol]

*edit
Got power from the x20 connection to the C101 pin #16 and now when we try the stomp test we can hear the relays engage but the light doesn't flash.

[Adrian_Visser]

Running power to the diag. connector will make a peake scanner work it won't make your CEL in the dash work.

First off does the CEL light up with the key in the run position with the car off?

Second what year and model e30 do you have?

On my 1989 325is you connect c101 pin 12 to x20 pin 8 on my 1995 M50TU harness, however since you are running a NV it is probably different.

Did you make your own harness adapter?

Did you study the etm for a couple hours to get the jist of it yourself?

[Vtec?lol]

Yea the check engine light works and light up with the key on/engine off. It flashed a few times when I first tried to get the car running but now it won't do squat.

The harness was made by a friend. I'm looking into the wiring diagrams now.

it's a 1991 318is with the M50nv out of an e34 with the green label 405 ecu

[Voluted]

Did you have your crank pulley off at all before the engine went in? If it's mounted 1 turn clockwise/counterclockwise off TDC the engine will run just like that.

[Vtec?lol]

Hmmm. That's one I haven't thought of. I didn't know you can mount it any other way. I'll look into it thanks!

So I just swapped in new ignition coils from an m42 (all six) as cylinder one wasn't getting hot at all. Now it rev's a lot smoother and I can get it all the way to redline (almost) but it still cuts out as if I turn the key off and sputters back on.

I don't understand why it's doing this. When I turned it on it still wouldn't idle (good idle control valve) and now the check engine light is flashing like crazy.

[Vtec?lol]

*update

I learned that to start the engine cold it runs and revs higher/better

after it warms up a bit it gets horribly worse.

Cold start:
Revs higher
holds idle better

Warm
wont idle
revlimited at 2500rpm

also noticed that when unplugging the charcoal canister flow sensor it runs slightly better but if I plug it up the engine starts to ping or ignite the intake.

I'm lost

[howelll]

where in Houston are you?

[Kingb]

what about the blue temp sensor? My M20 acted like that when warm and I spent days swaping parts until I swapped that. Thats the sensor that tells the DME how much fuel to put in according to temp.
Just an idea since the others were out already. Also in my swap I ended up frying a 405 somehow then found a cracked and melted coil. Try swapping the DME with a 405 or 402

[howelll]

I have a 402 and a new crank sensor. We could give them a try.

[Vtec?lol]

Howell, if you can make it out here that would be very much appreciated. I pmed my info


Kingb, that's great info. I didn't know you could use any other dme.

I thank you all for your help and replies. hopefully I can get this all sorted out soon!

[Vtec?lol]

I got a new ECU and new crank sensor from a member and still nothing!

I noticed that when I unplug the cam sensor, nothing happens. Still runs the same. Swap sensors with a known good one from my m42 and still nothing.

Why?

[Vtec?lol]

Bad purge valve - bypassed
checked the trigger wheel - ok!

I'm ready to kill something!

any other suggestions?

[e30s50dan]

Fuel lines correct?

Someone may have mentioned this,I'm just to lazy to read all...

U have spare ECU?

[Vtec?lol]

Fuel lines are correct. I replaced the ecu.

*update

I clean the ICV and swapped ecu temp sensor and now it revs up to 3500 without throttle.

No vacuum leak so im guessing it's the icv