What to look for?

[MGB GT]

On my way this Friday to look at 2 m52’s 2.8 for a swap. Both motors have been pulled and come with complete wiring harnesses. One came from a car with 130K miles and the other had 150K miles. This is my first swap and I want to make sure that I’m going to get the best motor for my money that I can. (The seller is asking $850 for either one.) I don’t want to find out down the road that I have to re-build the motor after it is in my car. What should I look for or do before I buy one? Thanks for your help.

[JGood]

I'd probably just get the one that looks cleaner with less oil seapage, as that could hint that it was in car that was taken care of better. Other then that it's a crap shoot if you don't have a scope to look in the cylinders, and since you can't do a compression test. Maybe look at the vacuum hoses and other rubber parts for cracking, for the same reason.

Maybe ask to look under the valve cover so you can check for any major scoring of the cams?

[Wanganstyle]

call seller and arrange for a leakdown test on the spot. If seller has 2 identical engines, seller should know what a leakdown test is

[MGB GT]

I talked to the seller about a leakdown test and he said it would be difficult due to the motors being out of the car and that when you do a leak down test, the engine should be warm? Also he stated it might be difficult to get the motor on TDC becasuse it was cold. I have access to a leakdown tester and compresser that I am going to take with on Friday.

[Wanganstyle]

BS.

Leakdown is easily done on a cold engine, same for compression. just because its cold does not mean there will be no sealing, if engine is sealing they will still be within the same % range. sure warm temp will make seal better, but a newly built 0 miles engine on engine stand will have compression from rings and valves and gaskets sealing.

TDC is = top dead center. that has nothing to do with temps. Turn crankshaft untill cylinder 1-6 is at top dead center, if you hook up the leakdown tester to any cylinder and just crank it by hand there will be a place that it will catch and build pressure (be careful, use a non racheting long breaker with positioning to torque against cylinder air pressure. don't hurt yourself!!!

Leakdown will have a range (what pressure going in, and pressure retained is) this delta is what you are after. compare the pressure % range on all 6 cylinders :)

[DREWHALL]

I don't understand why so many people act like a leakdown is impossible on an engine on the ground. I had several people deny my request for a leakdown because it's out of the car. If anything it's easier to bar the engine over because the rest of the car isn't in the way.