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S52 Vanos R&R with M20 flywheel

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    S52 Vanos R&R with M20 flywheel

    Going to tackle this job soon, but I think I may have a problem. By the book, you are supposed to utilize a hole in the stock S52 flywheel and a pin tool to lock the flywheel in place. The M20 flywheel has no such hole.

    Anyone have a good work-around, short of picking up a trashed / old S52 flywheel and bolting it on?

    #2
    Go here: http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp


    Search 112170 BMW M20 Flywheel lock tool. ( However I THINK it requires tranny to be out to use it......)


    Although I am more than sure you do not need to lock the crank to R&R the vanos. If you can lock the cams that's fine, take vanos wrench and crank it and it should push it right off. t reinstall just line up splines and get it in as far as possible and then turn the vanos wrench and it should suck it all the way back in. ALL THE WAY if not re do you screwed up something.

    Protip: dab some sealer over the dowel inserts on the surface merge.
    Originally posted by 325Projectz
    don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
    :nice:

    Comment


      #3
      It can be done without locking the flywheel.
      BimmerHeads
      Classic BMW Specialists
      Santa Clarita, CA

      www.BimmerHeads.com

      Comment


        #4
        You can use a piston stop.
        john@m20guru.com
        Links:
        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

        Comment


          #5
          If the cam locks alone will work, then sweet. Thanks guys

          Comment


            #6
            If the engine is on a stand, then put two bolts through the end of the crank and shove a 3/8" extension and lock it against the stand arms. Boom, flywheel lock.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Mr Two View Post
              If the cam locks alone will work, then sweet. Thanks guys
              As long as you have #1 TDC. It has to be precise.
              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

              Comment


                #8
                Just put a really long screwdriver in cylinder #1 through the sparkplug well, and use that to make sure cyl 1 is at TDC when you go to time it. :)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Roland H View Post
                  Just put a really long screwdriver in cylinder #1 through the sparkplug well, and use that to make sure cyl 1 is at TDC when you go to time it. :)
                  Seeing the piston sits at TDC for about 2degrees of crank timing, is this the best option?

                  There is a timing mark on the 60-2 wheel to let you know TDC, line them up and hold the crank with something.

                  Just in case anyone thinks it doesn't have to be perfect, it does. Have hacked the Motronic OBD1 ECU's and can watch the cam timing in action on the laptop, as well as having access to Snap-On Solus OBD2 scanner/programmer - with either of those, the cam timing can be watched and you wouldn't believe how off a back-yard "timed" motor looks like. Two crank degrees is a LOT on cam timing (4degrees off of base timing in VANOS).

                  Sure it will run, but so will an m20 with an entire tooth off of straight up timing (almost ten degrees).
                  john@m20guru.com
                  Links:
                  Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I was planning on using said timing mark to ensure TDC, putting the car in gear, with the ebrake up, then installing the cam locks.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Use the timing mark to get the engine at TDC and replace one of the crank pulley bolts with a longer one. Hand tighten it against the timing cover and give it another 1/4 turn to lock the crank at TDC.

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